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[QUOTE=dodger413;206130 i was just reading another post here with an old early 80's bearing was taken apart for repair. minus the cage, the bearings look quite similar.
[/QUOTE]
Not really, the old style were tapered rollers not *****
Was almost written this tip too but did read the thread to the end.
Another tip.
Best 6205 bearings i've ever used for Harley 25mm axle wheels are USA made SKF 6205 2RSJEM. Used them a lot those times i was running a motorcycle repair shop. Never a premature failure with them.
2RSJEM means "Double Sealed Deep Groove C3 Internal Clearance". Internal clearance is very important for wheel application. Most failures people have with 6205 are due to wrong clearance class (regular C0 or tight C2 are not giving enough space for thermal expansion under the bike load)
USA made are still available on Ebay as NOS lots. But other countries made are also good.
BTW if somebody wants to get rid of special ABS bearing there is a Performance Machine kit 0071-3000 to install replaceable magnetic ring over the regular 6205 bearing.
When a customer asked me for the best I always mention SKF first. F.A.G., NTN, NSK and Fafnir (now Timken) were also high quality trusted bearings. The problem for those of us with ABS is getting one from these manufacturers for ABS applications.
To break that part number down for everyone:
6000 series of Radial Ball Bearings
6200 equal size series, 200 series
6205 with 5 representing the bore / ID - 5 x 5 = 25mm
2RS = 2 Rubber Seals / Sealed Both Sides
J = Metal Retainer separating *****
EM = Electric Motor Quality
Electric motor quality is the normal standard for a premium bearing. It is a precision bearing ABEC 3 rating, usually in C3 fit / tolerance class, good to around 3600 RPM rating.
Originally Posted by BrandonSmith
Too much lubrication is just as bad as too little. For the love of God do NOT pack these bearings with grease...
You are 100% correct. Grease acts as an insulator and too much will make a bearing run hot. Heat is friction and friction kills.
Last edited by Cosmic Razorback; May 16, 2022 at 10:04 AM.
To break that part number down for everyone:
6000 series of Radial Ball Bearings
6200 equal size series, 200 series
6205 with 5 representing the bore / ID - 5 x 5 = 25mm
2RS = 2 Rubber Seals / Sealed Both Sides
J = Metal Retainer separating *****
EM = Electric Motor Quality
Electric motor quality is the normal standard for a premium bearing. It is a precision bearing ABEC 3 rating, usually in C3 fit / tolerance class, good to around 3600 RPM rating.
@Cosmic Razorback How does that bearing compare to the SKF 6205-2RSH and what does the 6205-2RSH break down as? Basically how does a JEM bearing compare to the H, as all the other fields of the part number are the same (SKF 6205-2RS)?
@Cosmic Razorback How does that bearing compare to the SKF 6205-2RSH and what does the 6205-2RSH break down as? Basically how does a JEM bearing compare to the H, as all the other fields of the part number are the same (SKF 6205-2RS)?
”H” Suffix = NBR Contact Rubber Seal
”L” Suffix = Non-Contact Rubber Seal
JEM and H are two different things. JEM is electric motor rated which I consider normal or standard. The H again is contact rubber seals. Meaning they make solid contact with the inner race which creates a little friction and limits the overall maximum RPM. I am not giving advice as to what you should run, only my personal experience. I would happily use the 2-RSJEM or the 2RSH.
For me the “H” would be most desirable as it will give the most protection against dirt and foreign particles entering as well as water. They are good far above the rpm a wheel spins on a motorcycle.
If for example you needed to rotate it much faster but still needed a sealed bearing the “L” would be the way to go assuming the environment was cleaner.
Originally Posted by Uncle Larry
Check the grease in the new bearings BEFORE installing ....It's a quick and easy task to safely remove the seal and reinstall
Not at all recommended. I wish I had a dollar for every time a customer complained there was not enough grease in a bearing. These sealed bearings like anything else have a life span. They wear every time the tire rotates. Good brands like SKF have been throughly tested and they know how much grease is needed. As mentioned above too little or too much is not good, the right amount gives best results. I will trust the SKF engineers.
Last edited by Cosmic Razorback; May 16, 2022 at 08:05 PM.
”H” Suffix = NBR Contact Rubber Seal
”L” Suffix = Non-Contact Rubber Seal
JEM and H are two different things. JEM is electric motor rated which I consider normal or standard. The H again is contact rubber seals. Meaning they make solid contact with the inner race which creates a little friction and limits the overall maximum RPM. I am not giving advice as to what you should run, only my personal experience. I would happily use the 2-RSJEM or the 2RSH.
For me the “H” would be most desirable as it will give the most protection against dirt and foreign particles entering as well as water. They are good far above the rpm a wheel spins on a motorcycle.
If for example you needed to rotate it much faster but still needed a sealed bearing the “L” would be the way to go assuming the environment was cleaner.
Not at all recommended. I wish I had a dollar for every time a customer complained there was not enough grease in a bearing. These sealed bearings like anything else have a life span. They wear every time the tire rotates. Good brands like SKF have been throughly tested and they know how much grease is needed. As mentioned above too little or too much is not good, the right amount gives best results. I will trust the SKF engineers.
Originally Posted by Uncle LarryView Post
Check the grease in the new bearings BEFORE installing ....It's a quick and easy task to safely remove the seal and reinstall
"Not at all recommended. I wish I had a dollar for every time a customer complained there was not enough grease in a bearing. These sealed bearings like anything else have a life span. They wear every time the tire rotates. Good brands like SKF have been throughly tested and they know how much grease is needed. As mentioned above too little or too much is not good, the right amount gives best results. I will trust the SKF engineers"
"Not at all recomended" ... and why wouldn't you if you could ? ... You put X amount ( 4 qts? ) of oil in after an oil change and you check it after you put it in correct? Why? Don't you blindly believe that each quart had the correct amount? ... Let me relate a first hand scenario for you ... Two seasons ago I replaced tires, tubes, rim liners, rotors, all wheel bearings, oil filter, air filter and all fluids ... The bearings I used were All ***** ... I've used them in the past ... After opening the bearings I checked ( as I have in the past ) and low and behold one bearing had absolutely zero grease in it ... Yes you read that correctly ...Zero grease ... Fortunately I caught it before installation ... Was it a fluke? ... A one time happening? ... Could be ... Will I do it again ( check for grease ) on the next installation? ... You bet your sweet a$$ I will ... Not the type of reply I'd expect from you :<(
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