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When a customer asked me for the best I always mention SKF first. F.A.G., NTN, NSK and Fafnir (now Timken) were also high quality trusted bearings. The problem for those of us with ABS is getting one from these manufacturers for ABS applications.
To break that part number down for everyone:
6000 series of Radial Ball Bearings
6200 equal size series, 200 series
6205 with 5 representing the bore / ID - 5 x 5 = 25mm
2RS = 2 Rubber Seals / Sealed Both Sides
J = Metal Retainer separating *****
EM = Electric Motor Quality
Electric motor quality is the normal standard for a premium bearing. It is a precision bearing ABEC 3 rating, usually in C3 fit / tolerance class, good to around 3600 RPM rating.
You are 100% correct. Grease acts as an insulator and too much will make a bearing run hot. Heat is friction and friction kills.
Check out Brocks performance for World Wide Bearings, they make one for the ABS, just replaced all 4 on the RGL with the WWB's, used 2 Timkens I had for the rear sprocket.
Did all of mine at 12k miles during the crappy weather, old ones did not look bad but after having one fail on the Low Rider wanted a good quality set. Actually the factory ABS bearing was the *** brand made in Korea, seems like a good quality bearing.
Last edited by MRFREEZE57; May 17, 2022 at 11:33 PM.
Originally Posted by Uncle LarryView Post
Check the grease in the new bearings BEFORE installing ....It's a quick and easy task to safely remove the seal and reinstall
"Not at all recommended. I wish I had a dollar for every time a customer complained there was not enough grease in a bearing. These sealed bearings like anything else have a life span. They wear every time the tire rotates. Good brands like SKF have been throughly tested and they know how much grease is needed. As mentioned above too little or too much is not good, the right amount gives best results. I will trust the SKF engineers"
"Not at all recomended" ... and why wouldn't you if you could ? ... You put X amount ( 4 qts? ) of oil in after an oil change and you check it after you put it in correct? Why? Don't you blindly believe that each quart had the correct amount? ... Let me relate a first hand scenario for you ... Two seasons ago I replaced tires, tubes, rim liners, rotors, all wheel bearings, oil filter, air filter and all fluids ... The bearings I used were All ***** ... I've used them in the past ... After opening the bearings I checked ( as I have in the past ) and low and behold one bearing had absolutely zero grease in it ... Yes you read that correctly ...Zero grease ... Fortunately I caught it before installation ... Was it a fluke? ... A one time happening? ... Could be ... Will I do it again ( check for grease ) on the next installation? ... You bet your sweet a$$ I will ... Not the type of reply I'd expect from you :<(
As an ag mechanic I see the same issues Cosmic Razorback is telling you about. You ask a bearing dealer worth his salt what the biggest killer of a bearing is and most will tell you an owner with a grease gun. They either put in the wrong grease for the given application or too much. In my case it's usually both. Heat causes expansion, expansion will builds more heat. You put too much grease in a sealed bearing and it will fail. GUARANTEED!
But, if you want to treat every bearing like the bearings on grandpas model T, go ahead.
It's called a sealed bearing for a reason and if you go and remove the dust seals and try to repack you already broke the bearing. I just change the bearings with every tire change, they are not that expensive. Especially if I don't know what bearing is in there or how many miles it has seen. These are heavy bikes and they eat bearings like cereal.
Check out Brocks performance for World Wide Bearings, they make one for the ABS, just replaced all 4 on the RGL with the WWB's, used 2 Timkens I had for the rear sprocket.
Did all of mine at 12k miles during the crappy weather, old ones did not look bad but after having one fail on the Low Rider wanted a good quality set. Actually the factory ABS bearing was the *** brand made in Korea, seems like a good quality bearing.
Yep, that is what I did for ABS. I returned all the Import ALL BALLZ I bought, and bought the SKFs, and the Brocks ABS bearings, Started losing the shitty HD bearing in the rear at 12K
On a different forum I stopped posting that adding grease is more likely to kill a bearing then just leaving it alone. I worked for a company that wanted to use a specialist grease so what they did was weigh a bearing, clean out the grease and reweigh to see exactly how much grease they should put back in.
To defend Uncle Larry it is one thing to see if a bearing is greased just to make sure but it is a whole different thing believing there is not enough grease and adding more.
As an ag mechanic I see the same issues Cosmic Razorback is telling you about. You ask a bearing dealer worth his salt what the biggest killer of a bearing is and most will tell you an owner with a grease gun. They either put in the wrong grease for the given application or too much. In my case it's usually both. Heat causes expansion, expansion will builds more heat. You put too much grease in a sealed bearing and it will fail. GUARANTEED!
But, if you want to treat every bearing like the bearings on grandpas model T, go ahead.
Jes
You did read everything that I wrote in my reply, correct? ... I appreciate your experience ... I am also a veteran mechanic ( ASE certified ) and operated my own shop ( successfully ) until I retired 20 years ago ... No where did I recommend or mention the use of a grease gun, bearing buddies or the like ... I was offering caution for all and conveying my own experience on the last go round during bearing installation using a set of All ***** bearings ( one had Zero grease in it ) Was I in error checking? According to you I must have been ??
I have found several HD bearing with no grease in them. I check every bearing i buy now. Grease verse no grease ? I'll take the greased bearing every time.
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