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I'm installing a set of S&S Quickee pushrods on my '17 FXDB. Started with the rear cylinder intake and everything went great, took about a 1/2 hour for the lifter to bleed down. Installed the exhaust side and it won't bleed down to where I can spin the rod. Removed it and double checked that everything was good, I'm on the base circle, rod is in the cup top and bottom, rotated 20 flats but it just won't bleed down to where I can spin it by hand. Where should I check next? Could it be a shot lifter? I'm assuming that the 0 lash position must be to low and the 20 flats is actually bottoming the cup in the lifter. From an eyeball standpoint though, the exposed threads look the same between the two rods so they've got to be pretty close in overall length.
Adding to my own conversation...could that tappet have bled down while the bike has been sitting over the last 4+ months? That would have given a false 0 lash, right? Or would the spring keep it from collapsing from 0?
Last edited by snake_eyes; Jan 2, 2023 at 10:21 AM.
The spring in the lifter will keep it from collapsing. Are you using new lifters? I've had the same thing happen but usually on the second attempt it goes good. If the lifters are used I would pull the one that isn't adjusting right and check it out. Push the plunger in and make sure the spring is returning and isn't stuck. I did a big bore for a guy last year and when he went to start it for the first time this past season he had a lifter that wouldn't pump up and when I took it apart the plunger in the lifter was stuck in the compressed position. New lifter and all was well. I have a feeling you're having the same problem. The stuck plunger is giving you a false zero lash starting point. Just my guess
The spring in the lifter will keep it from collapsing. Are you using new lifters? I've had the same thing happen but usually on the second attempt it goes good. If the lifters are used I would pull the one that isn't adjusting right and check it out. Push the plunger in and make sure the spring is returning and isn't stuck. I did a big bore for a guy last year and when he went to start it for the first time this past season he had a lifter that wouldn't pump up and when I took it apart the plunger in the lifter was stuck in the compressed position. New lifter and all was well. I have a feeling you're having the same problem. The stuck plunger is giving you a false zero lash starting point. Just my guess
Thanks for the reply man. They are the stock MoCo lifters that were in the engine, just swapped cams. I'm going to knock off work early today and get out in the shop and pull the lifters and take a close look...I figure I can also pump them back up while they're out.
Yeah, what he said. That was my first impression: the lifter is already bled down. Every lifter I've ever seen has a spring in it to expand it in the absence of oil pressure and any load. Assuming it isn't stuck in the collapsed position, it should expand on its own, but it won't take that much pressure to collapse it. So, basically, the zero lash position might be difficult to identify, but it would be the minimum length where the pushrod still makes contact on both ends.
Otherwise you are probably going to have to take the lifter out, immerse it in oil and pump it up, then start over. Use sewing machine oil so it's easy to bleed down again.
Thanks for all the replies. I learned a lot about an area where I had little prior knowledge.
I popped the exhaust lifter out and it does seem like it's completely bled, there is no resistance on the cup while the intake side couldn't be depressed with just my thumb...so new Feuling lifters are on the way from FuelMoto.
I'm going to add a 2nd question here and hopefully someone will see it.
For you guys that have installed the S&S Quickee tubes, how did you get the locking tab in without scraping the **** out of the slip collar? I tried using a plastic trim remover, but the spring tension is so high that it wouldn't work and using a flat head was a mess. Once the lifters show up, I'm going to try and apply some electrical tape to the collar to see if I can protect it but advice is appreciated.
I'm going to add a 2nd question here and hopefully someone will see it.
For you guys that have installed the S&S Quickee tubes, how did you get the locking tab in without scraping the **** out of the slip collar? I tried using a plastic trim remover, but the spring tension is so high that it wouldn't work and using a flat head was a mess. Once the lifters show up, I'm going to try and apply some electrical tape to the collar to see if I can protect it but advice is appreciated.
I have one of the motion pro pushrod tube tools and it is the bees knees. However a long flat head screwgie against the cylinder fins then pushing down on the collar with the other end ( think fulcrum ) works well also. Just wrap the tip in electrical tape or something so you don't scratch anything.
I was at a buddies house once when he was doing a cam swap and he used one of those spanner wrenches that comes with a Metabo to push down on the collar and slide the clips in. I was laughing the whole time but it worked lol.
Where do you live? I'll send my pliers to you so you can use them if you want. Just pay the shipping.... I think a new set is around $50... it might be worth it, it might not but it's an option.
Last edited by brownie4412; Jan 4, 2023 at 01:26 PM.
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S&S Quickee Adjustment
