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Dyna Glide ModelsSuper Glide, Super Glide Sport, Super Glide Custom, Dyna Glide Convertible, Super Glide T-Sport, Dyna Glide Police, Dyna Switchback, Low Rider, Street Bob, Fat Bob and Wide Glide.
couldn't get it to prevent valve travel to any degree at all.
You need more rope. Put the piston near TDC. Fill the combustion chamber with rope then crank the piston up against the rope. There will be nowhere for the valve to go. If you do it right, pushing the valve down will only happen if it also pushs the piston down.
You gotta hit the valve spring retainer pretty hard before you start and not directly over the valve stem, i use my smaller dead blow hammer, you will hear a change in sound from stuck keepers and loosened keepers. It feels sketchy shaking a valve with a hammer but in the thousands I have done, I have never damaged a valve.
The air hose is attached. And I gotta say I am pleased with my engine (120R) showing very little leakdown, I can hardly hear anything. Untill I tighten the NUB tool that is .
I have tried to hit the retainer with various tools now with the NUB toool removed and I can't knock the keepers lose from it. I even hit it with my air hammer (with a piece of oak wood between the retainer and the hammer). Maybe 120R is a keyword here, could it be that it's stiff valve springs has got the keepers/retainers more jammed together than usual? I am leaning towards taking the heads off at this point?
JT
I've had decent luck with putting a small socket over the stem and giving it a good tap. It will shock it enough to break loose when the proper tool is used.
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