Dyna FXD Clutch Won't Disengage
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2nd Gear
Joined: Apr 2023
Posts: 6
Likes: 1
From: Central Valley
Dyna FXD Clutch Won't Disengage
Afternoon Gang! I've been fighting with my clutch not wanting to disengage after a clutch cable change. I put on some 8" straight raisers and needed to install a longer clutch cable. My bike is a 01 Dyna Super Glide FXD with 7900 miles. Clutch worked fine before the cable swap.
Once the new clutch cable was in I did a clutch adjustment. Fully loosened the clutch cable at the adjuster. Popped the derby cover off. Loosened the lock nut, turned the screw in until slight resistance, backed it off a 1/2 turn. Readjusted the clutch cable til the clutch lever had about 3/32 of play. When I squeezed the clutch lever, it felt normal and I could see the pressure plate moving under fhe derby cover. I put the bike in gear and when squeezing the clutch, the clutch wouldnt disengage and let the bike move freely.
I messed with the adjustment for a few days, devulging any tips and tricks i could find on the internet to no avail. The clutch ramp and 3 ***** under the circle clip all are properly installed. I removed the new cable and reinstalled the old clutch cable and I'm still having the same issue.
I do remeber, when putting the transmission side cover back on the first time, there was resistance when putting the left side bolts back in. I believe that's the push rod on that side. I'm not sure if that could have caused a internal issue. What possible parts am I looking to change out if this did cause an issue?
Thanks in advance!
Sean ODay
Once the new clutch cable was in I did a clutch adjustment. Fully loosened the clutch cable at the adjuster. Popped the derby cover off. Loosened the lock nut, turned the screw in until slight resistance, backed it off a 1/2 turn. Readjusted the clutch cable til the clutch lever had about 3/32 of play. When I squeezed the clutch lever, it felt normal and I could see the pressure plate moving under fhe derby cover. I put the bike in gear and when squeezing the clutch, the clutch wouldnt disengage and let the bike move freely.
I messed with the adjustment for a few days, devulging any tips and tricks i could find on the internet to no avail. The clutch ramp and 3 ***** under the circle clip all are properly installed. I removed the new cable and reinstalled the old clutch cable and I'm still having the same issue.
I do remeber, when putting the transmission side cover back on the first time, there was resistance when putting the left side bolts back in. I believe that's the push rod on that side. I'm not sure if that could have caused a internal issue. What possible parts am I looking to change out if this did cause an issue?
Thanks in advance!
Sean ODay
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Joined: Mar 2010
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From: Honah Lee
Be sure cable is not so loose that when you lever it, you can fill clutch.
Now behind derby, loosen lock nut and screw in adjuster till it stops and turn in another couple turns to deburr fine threads. (That can sometimes be what makes you think you are at no play.
Now back out till it's free and screw back in till no play.
Now back back a few turns and be sure you fill clutch with lever.
Now using lever, you can screw in adjuster to no play but also pull clutch lever and actually fill the play disappear.
Now back off 1/2 to 5/8 turn for a broke in clutch.
Lock the nut while holding adjuster .
Now set free play at cable at bars checking both locks to about 1/32 play.
A new cable will need a touch reset shortly at bars since it will loosen.
Unless you abuse it, that setting on a broke in clutch will last forever behind derby cover.
Now behind derby, loosen lock nut and screw in adjuster till it stops and turn in another couple turns to deburr fine threads. (That can sometimes be what makes you think you are at no play.
Now back out till it's free and screw back in till no play.
Now back back a few turns and be sure you fill clutch with lever.
Now using lever, you can screw in adjuster to no play but also pull clutch lever and actually fill the play disappear.
Now back off 1/2 to 5/8 turn for a broke in clutch.
Lock the nut while holding adjuster .
Now set free play at cable at bars checking both locks to about 1/32 play.
A new cable will need a touch reset shortly at bars since it will loosen.
Unless you abuse it, that setting on a broke in clutch will last forever behind derby cover.
Last edited by Jackie Paper; Apr 6, 2023 at 06:15 PM.
Thread Starter
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2nd Gear
Joined: Apr 2023
Posts: 6
Likes: 1
From: Central Valley
Be sure cable is not so loose that when you lever it, you can fill clutch.
Now behind derby, loosen lock nut and screw in adjuster till it stops and turn in another couple turns to deburr fine threads. (That can sometimes be what makes you think you are at no play.
Now back out till it's free and screw back in till no play.
Now back back a few turns and be sure you fill clutch with lever.
Now using lever, you can screw in adjuster to no play but also pull clutch lever and actually fill the play disappear.
Now back off 1/2 to 5/8 turn for a broke in clutch.
Lock the nut while holding adjuster .
Now set free play at cable at bars checking both locks to about 1/32 play.
A new cable will need a touch reset shortly at bars since it will loosen.
Unless you abuse it, that setting on a broke in clutch will last forever behind derby cover.
Now behind derby, loosen lock nut and screw in adjuster till it stops and turn in another couple turns to deburr fine threads. (That can sometimes be what makes you think you are at no play.
Now back out till it's free and screw back in till no play.
Now back back a few turns and be sure you fill clutch with lever.
Now using lever, you can screw in adjuster to no play but also pull clutch lever and actually fill the play disappear.
Now back off 1/2 to 5/8 turn for a broke in clutch.
Lock the nut while holding adjuster .
Now set free play at cable at bars checking both locks to about 1/32 play.
A new cable will need a touch reset shortly at bars since it will loosen.
Unless you abuse it, that setting on a broke in clutch will last forever behind derby cover.
I am seeing the pressure plate moving under the derby cover when i apply the clutch lever but im not sure if that means anything
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Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 38,612
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From: Honah Lee
Hey Jackie, thanks for the quick response! Just went into the garage and copied exactly what you said to do and the clutch still won't disengage.
I am seeing the pressure plate moving under the derby cover when i apply the clutch lever but im not sure if that means anything
I am seeing the pressure plate moving under the derby cover when i apply the clutch lever but im not sure if that means anything
So, with your present setting, when you start levering the clutch lever, the lever should only move maybe a maximum of 1/32 toward bars and you should start filling resistance. When you pull just a little more, you should start seeing the plates breaking.
When you pull the lever all the way to bars, you definitely should see clutch break and fill clutch..
Is that what you see?
On a hard surface, with clutch pulled in, can you back bike up in first?
Thread Starter
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2nd Gear
Joined: Apr 2023
Posts: 6
Likes: 1
From: Central Valley
We know from what you said, clutch was fine before cable and other modifications.
So, with your present setting, when you start levering the clutch lever, the lever should only move maybe a maximum of 1/32 toward bars and you should start filling resistance. When you pull just a little more, you should start seeing the plates breaking.
When you pull the lever all the way to bars, you definitely should see clutch break and fill clutch..
Is that what you see?
On a hard surface, with clutch pulled in, can you back bike up in first?
So, with your present setting, when you start levering the clutch lever, the lever should only move maybe a maximum of 1/32 toward bars and you should start filling resistance. When you pull just a little more, you should start seeing the plates breaking.
When you pull the lever all the way to bars, you definitely should see clutch break and fill clutch..
Is that what you see?
On a hard surface, with clutch pulled in, can you back bike up in first?
Bike in 1st, clutch pulled in, theres a lot of resistance but i can roll the bike backwards. If i throw my weight into, I can get it rolling and keep it rolling. Like I said, there's a lot of resistance. While i have it rolling and let go of the clutch, I can feel it grab, stop the bike and i can no longer roll it.
Edit:
I've zipped tied the clutch to the grip so that the clutch is being squeezed. It's been about 30mins, I popped the bike in 1st and the bike is rolling easier now but there is still some resistance. I guess I'll see what happens over night
Last edited by Cvcaliborn; Apr 7, 2023 at 12:21 AM.
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From: Honah Lee
My bike will jump if I crank it in gear with clutch pulled. Especially when cold. Most all do that. Especially if your primary fluid is too full or something other then non detergent gear oil like Harley's Formula+.
The drive and driven disk tend to stick together.
However it should not pull once running and clutch pulled in . What did your throw out bearing look like when you replaced cable ? You made sure cam plate that the cable hooks to was smooth and the big retainer clip was secure?
The drive and driven disk tend to stick together.
However it should not pull once running and clutch pulled in . What did your throw out bearing look like when you replaced cable ? You made sure cam plate that the cable hooks to was smooth and the big retainer clip was secure?
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From: Whiskey Falls, Texas
That's because you don't know how to adjust a clutch....
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Actually I think I have never seen a Harley that doesn't jump at sometime or another.
One thing that happens is if the bike hasn't been ridden for a few days or longer ,the clutch plates tend to stick together from the oil film between them.
The colder the oil the worse it jumps. Yeah clutch adjustment does play a lot to help , but you will likely find the jump is also there when warmed uo to operating temps. This is from the swelling of the clutch parts from temp change.
Harley doesn't release very far on the plates.
The oil level does make a difference also especially trying to find neutral. Also if the primary chain is too tight will make a big difference.
But bottom line is the jump is quite normal! One of the reasons Harley wants you to hold the brake while starting.
If it isn't extreme don't worry about it !
One thing that happens is if the bike hasn't been ridden for a few days or longer ,the clutch plates tend to stick together from the oil film between them.
The colder the oil the worse it jumps. Yeah clutch adjustment does play a lot to help , but you will likely find the jump is also there when warmed uo to operating temps. This is from the swelling of the clutch parts from temp change.
Harley doesn't release very far on the plates.
The oil level does make a difference also especially trying to find neutral. Also if the primary chain is too tight will make a big difference.
But bottom line is the jump is quite normal! One of the reasons Harley wants you to hold the brake while starting.
If it isn't extreme don't worry about it !