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Stripped oil drain plug hole

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Old Jun 5, 2025 | 07:50 PM
  #31  
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From: New Hampsha
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The problem with Teflon tape in gasoline (or anything else for that matter) is, if you undo the fitting with the Teflon tape you are left with thousands of threads of Teflon that can get into whatever it is you're trying to seal. Not so bad for a kitchen faucet but very bad for a fuel system.

I used to teach budding aircraft mechanics at a Part 147 school. The rule was never use Teflon tape unless the maintenance manual says to. I've never seen such a manual. Sort of like never put anything in your ear smaller than your elbow.
 
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Old Jun 5, 2025 | 08:00 PM
  #32  
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I wouldn't be a bit suprised of someone sneaking in counterfeit teflon tape just to damage anything it was used on!

 
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Old Jun 5, 2025 | 09:13 PM
  #33  
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The question to me, is he has a trip he has to make on the bike. What would you trust going out on the road with? Can any of the fixes be done on the bike? Lay it on its side to work? I would be temped to jb weld it and get a new pan, or see if I could clean the surface and sert or such next month,

Myself I lean towards replacing pan after the trip, regardless of fix. Personally I would be reluctant to the trip. But it has to be done. I suppose we have all done trips like this with last minute fixes.
 
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Old Jun 5, 2025 | 09:14 PM
  #34  
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When I replaced my first pan , the manual called for hylomar and gasket which is a bugger to get goop and gasket in place. People now a days seem to not use goop, and makes somewhat easier. Not a fun job either way. Get long allen.
 
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Old Jun 7, 2025 | 03:59 AM
  #35  
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I’ve used the grease on the tap trick for EGT sensors in manifolds. It’s a bit hairy but can be done with a little patience.

Have no issues with Teflon on threads, trying to leave a few clean ones up top.

Right wrist is calibrated to 12-14NM, no wrench required.
 
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Old Jun 7, 2025 | 09:56 PM
  #36  
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From: SWFL
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Hi Guys. I have made it from SWFL to VT so far, 200 miles to go. All is well with the plug, just some drip leaks.

I had to do this trip, and the hole stripped the day before, so no time for anything more than I did. I am pretty sure it was already well on it's way when I got it, judging from the red locktite on the plug. I will do it up proper with an insert when I return in a few weeks. All the other road issues in the 1500 miles I have covered so far have taken my mind off the plug for now. Like a gas cap that spun but wouldn't come off at a pump for 30 minutes when I was running on fumes. And a cracking windshield, And a shorting out spark plug wire. And a lost luggage rack bolt. And a whole day with soggy boots that gave me a blister on the top of my shifting toe.

I am having oil issues, but I will put that in another thread. Thanks for the advice.
 
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Old Jun 7, 2025 | 11:49 PM
  #37  
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I've had good luck with those rubber plugs they sell that you then twist with an allen wrench to expand to expand and tighten.
Also, when I use a regular bolts I always use a crush washer made of either copper, zinc or aluminum.
Bought a 20 pack of copper ones years ago for my cars and motorcycles. They don't use them in the oil change places anymore, all you get is a dumb look if you even ask about it.
 
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Old Jun 10, 2025 | 02:09 PM
  #38  
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I used a Time Sert to repair a stripped transmission drain hole in my previous Night Train. Expensive but worked like a charm and no leaks.
 
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Old Jun 14, 2025 | 05:41 AM
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It's already ****ed and if you do it right it won't round off anymore. If it does you did it wrong. See exhibit a of trying to use a pipe wrench the first time instead of vice grips. Either it will be able to be grabbed with vice grips and come out. Or it's going to round off and be stuck.
 
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Old Jun 14, 2025 | 07:52 AM
  #40  
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You might want to re-read the OP's original posting

@kolelno1
 
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