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For those who have done this, I have a simple question. I studied the directions and Service Manual for this installation.
My simple question is:
Why not cut the wires to the Amp Multilock connectors inside the tail lamp housing an inch or two from the connector. Then do the install and route the wires back into the tail lamp housing and simply solder/shrink wrap the 4 wires (2 for each connector) in that one place. (instead of cutting the wires, then having to pull the wires out of the Multilock connector and reinsert later).
The simple answer is: because that's the neatest way to do it. You can cut and solder -- it's a free country. Lots of people do it. But it's kind of a hack job to do it that way.
Maybe that's a little unfair -- put it this way: the instructions tell you how a Harely dealership mechanic is supposed to do the job. If you took it to the dealer and paid their rate, would you be satisfied with a cut/solder job?
I actually had to do it that way on one side of mine. Several months ago, I had a tire rub the wires in two and spliced them back together. Because of the location of the splice, there wasn't enough wire to do the relocate per the instructions. So,using good quality wire, I made the splice inside the housing and ran plenty of new wire back through the fender and made another splice there per the instructions. So far, no problems.
The simple answer is: because that's the neatest way to do it. You can cut and solder -- it's a free country. Lots of people do it. But it's kind of a hack job to do it that way.
Maybe that's a little unfair -- put it this way: the instructions tell you how a Harely dealership mechanic is supposed to do the job. If you took it to the dealer and paid their rate, would you be satisfied with a cut/solder job?
Well quite frankly if the joining was done properly (parallel twist, tinned solder, shrink wrapped) it would be much more reliable than the butt connector crimp on method that comes with the kit. That is how they have you join the wires you cut. Then they have you extract the pins from the Amp Multilock connector (using a pin I suppose) so you can then route into the tail-light housing.
Maybe once I get into the job I will see the logic in their method.
I agree. When I was on here asking about installing the kit before I bought it, I had plenty of guys tell me they soldered their wires instead of orin addition tousing the supplied connectors because they felt it was more reliable. If done properly, I don't see how it couldn't be. However, they are just signal lights - it's not like you are connecting spark plug wires or something. The supplied connectors are perfectly fine and provide a good enough connection but you should be sure to insulate it properly whatever you do to keep the water out.
Honestly for something like that, I use the twist and wrap method where I just twist the wires together and wrap them tight with electrical tape and I haven't had an issue yet.
I also cut and soldered mine. The only drawback I can think of with soldering is that when you solder the wires, it makes them less flexible(brittle)and they could break near the solder due to vibration over time, but if you are careful to secure them well, this should really not be a problem.
I changed my to the modern bullet style lights and relocated them. I did them like the instructions indicated and took my time. Wanted to make sure it was 100% factory connected.
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