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This is never any easy process. Sometimes able to take a hammer and punch with sharp point and whack the tap fairly hard.Often times it will break the tap up enough that you can begin digging it out.
Ok....Here's what I've done many times for broken bolts, screws, etc. I don't know if it will work in your case, because I don't know what your "oops" looks like.
Anyway, if the tap is pretty level with the slider..............meaning that it didn't break off down in the hole.......Then you can just take a Dremel with a skinny cut-off disc and grind a skinny groove across the broken tap.......essentially making it a flat-head screw. Then just screw it out with a flat-head screwdriver.
I have done this many a times too! Great trick I learned from Dad.
I know it's hard metal, But as jefx said get a notch in the top of the broken tap, the deeper the better, then take a regular screw driver to it, Attatch vise grips for more leverage if necessary.. Be carefull that the screwdriver does not Slip or hop out gouging your new Powercoat.
Keep us posted.
yea that sucks but it happens. they do make an extractor for such problems. machine shop supply or take it to a shop and let them do it.
you could try using a penetrating oil and the needle nose pliers one more time first.
Ok....Here's what I've done many times for broken bolts, screws, etc. I don't know if it will work in your case, because I don't know what your "oops" looks like.
Anyway, if the tap is pretty level with the slider..............meaning that it didn't break off down in the hole.......Then you can just take a Dremel with a skinny cut-off disc and grind a skinny groove across the broken tap.......essentially making it a flat-head screw. Then just screw it out with a flat-head screwdriver.
yeah I am a fitter and turner so i have done this heaps but not with taps only bolts, studs etc.
when you say you have tried vise grips have you just tried screwing it out or have you tried screwing it in further first?
You will have to work it forwards and backwards to get it out.
If you can get the vise grips on it properly I would have thought you would be able to get this fugger out.
Heat (on the alloy - not the tap) may help but yes it will probably damage your powder-coating
MtS They make an attachment to a home torch (Mapp / Camper Gas) that has a solid pointed tip but holes in the side so the flames go outward but the tip heats to red hot (depending on the gas used). This way the part never comes in contact with open flame but concentrates the heat on the screw / bolt / in this case broken tap.
At least you could put some heat in it without damaging the slider - maybe enough to soften the aluminum that galled up the tap to make it get stuck and break.
I use the attachment all the time to remove wood screws that are epoxied into sole plates on golf clubs.
Good luck - dd
buy a new slider. the scenario plays out like this: speend six hours tryin to get the piece out and ruin the P/C or the slider in the process. i might even have a spare one for a 39mm
2002fxdp has a good point. A machine shop is NOT going to use "gentle care and handling" to remove the tap. If they do remove it, they'll prolly scratch it up in the process. And you may be out the machine cost AND have to have it re-coated.
Maybe the coater will give you a break.
I have a brake side 39mm, 1" axle and right side 3/4" axle slider you can have. Sorry the right side 1" axle is scratched / dented...
Good luck - hope it comes out - dd
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