Found something on my front forks
Could you clarify fore I break something? I was told on here and from my dealer thats how you drain front fork oil
Oh, and find a new dealer. ASAP.
Bolt #30 holds part #23, the dooflatchy,
in part #26, the thingamajig.
mud


As though the house remodel, (which is nowhere near complete) were not enough for this winter, I have been faced with further economic expenditure as a result of a previous shoddy repair, completed by a previous shoddy owner, of a piece of equipment which is currently in my fleet.
This lifter failed...........
http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t...3/DSCF0909.jpg
Starving #1 cylinder for fuel.............
http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t...3/DSCF0904.jpg
Which in turn caused #1 piston to sieze to #1 liner, jerking it into the crankcase, and turning it into this........
http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t...3/DSCF0895.jpg
The smaller pieces of which were subsequently delivered to the rest of the engine, via the oil pump, causing damage to virtually every bearing in it.
http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t...3/DSCF0898.jpg
And of course, damaging the crank in the process...........
http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t...3/DSCF0903.jpg
The end result, being, of course, about a 3000 dollar engine rebuild, and the definite exclusion of any chance of working on the motorsickle engine this winter.
Such is life. Sorry 'bout the thread hijack fellers.
Last edited by mud; Jan 13, 2009 at 08:37 AM. Reason: links to oversized car pix
I bought these set of bits to take my friends front end apart thinking it was like a newer set of forks. These are impact ½â drive! Just long enough to get into the set of 02 FL forks I had in the car. *Tool Tip* As you know, the longer Allan wrenches snap off (pictured type but not the needed metric) so I bought these. You need a impact gun to break the bolt loose or it will just spin. I was cool until the 67 came over with a different type of forks complete with a stud (pictured). $50 worth of cool new tools I did not need that day.
My friend is keeping his front end & making a stand to keep in his livingroom and storage. If the need arises, the stock front end goes right back on. Fort Lauderdale is not nice to bikers with drum brakes as one usually would have to start to stop in the next county.
[IMG]local://upfiles/29413/D293A4A31DA743F2BD2CA83C24F5615F.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/29413/35FE8555B86445CEB7552C0AE386DEB4.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/29413/820722E0CA60485182BC8C30BB00B130.jpg[/IMG]
MUDD. Did they change the Allan Key (I doubt it) needed from 6mm to 12mm.
Am I understanding you correctly?
The bolt I am referring to is #1 P/N 4042, Screw.
Is this the same screw that holds the front end together?
I bought these set of bits to take my friends front end apart
thinking it was like a newer set of forks.
These are impact ½â drive!
Just long enough to get into the set of 02 FL forks I had in the car. *Tool Tip* As you know, the longer Allan wrenches snap off (pictured type but not the needed metric) so I bought these. You need a impact gun to break the bolt loose or it will just spin. I was cool until the 67 came over with a different type of forks complete with a stud (pictured). $50 worth of cool new tools I did not need that day.
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Maybe the pre 06, and I do know at least some vRods are 6mm.
The exploded diagram is confusing,
but I believe #1 is the front axle retainer cap bolts.
#30, with the packing seal,is the 12mm that retains the oil lock.
I built a tool to "reach the bolt". Pictured below.
Mine, I really had to beat it out with an impact. It was real tite.
Some folks say theirs come out real easy.
Mine had threadlocker on them, and they were locked real good.
Beat on em for a while before I put some heat to the bolts,
then they broke loose.
mud

Once you do take your forks apart, might I suggest drilling and tapping the lower fork legs for a drain plug. Must say I am disappointed with HD for this oversight. Have not heard a good reason for eliminating the fork drains.





