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Dyna Glide ModelsSuper Glide, Super Glide Sport, Super Glide Custom, Dyna Glide Convertible, Super Glide T-Sport, Dyna Glide Police, Dyna Switchback, Low Rider, Street Bob, Fat Bob and Wide Glide.
Cut a square hole in the bottem of the seat not where wou sit on it,but forward as for maping every one is correct do all mods than have it maped only problem with that is your stuck with that set up. An adjustiable DFO is much more fun .Last but not least if there is any air leaks in your sliponsyou will be chasing poping for ever I found every spring I had to take them apart and reapply sealer to stop the poping.I did finly give up and bought one pice pipes for the bike.
Cut a square hole in the bottem of the seat not where wou sit on it,but forward as for maping every one is correct do all mods than have it maped only problem with that is your stuck with that set up. An adjustiable DFO is much more fun .Last but not least if there is any air leaks in your sliponsyou will be chasing poping for ever I found every spring I had to take them apart and reapply sealer to stop the poping.I did finly give up and bought one pice pipes for the bike.
I read about the clamp issue so I went and bought 2 new ones and installed them. Torqued them to 60lbs. My manual says that with the new clamps you no longer need silicone or teflon tape but I went ahead and put on the Permatex Copper gasket material. I was just confused as to where I should put it....between the slipon and the pipe or on the clamp itself before tightening. I put it inbetween the slipon and the pipe. Which if my luck is running true to course is the wrong place.
You put the Permatex in the right place. Theinside diameter of the inlets on my Rush mufflers were quite a bit oversizedand the mufflers were quite looseon the header pipes. I had to slide the clamps forward a little past the ends of the mufflers to get them over the slots in the inlets. Otherwise, the clamps were trying to compress the solid part of the inlet and they wouldn't seal up.
I havebothNess andSE air cleaners, and there's really no difference between them performance wise. I had some quality problems with the Ness and bought an SE while I was waiting for the Ness to be replaced. I think you'll be disappointed if you buy an SE air cleaner to replace the Ness and expect it to perform any different.
I think I am just going to suck it up and buy the PCIII. That way I can keep my AN Big Sucker. I am just wondering whether it is worth the time to remove the filter down to the backing plate and start the bike to make sure the AN cylinder ports are working properly. If I do will I feel air coming out of those tiny little ports on the backplate?
Ghost, you can get the PCIII under the seat. It's tight and it will require some effort but it is possible. Now having the back off module under there as well may be a different story. I'm not sure how big that is but you still may be able to shoe horn every thing in. My 07 bob has the alarm and i still fit it in. There are a few posts on here from a while back that show how to install it under the seat. I ended up cutting most of the wire ties and re arranging things and it made life a lot easier.
Fuel Moto is the place to go for the PCIII for sure. Save your sales receipt and you can get life time updates for free.
Go get a Terry Components Terminal Velocity 2 tuner!!! You NEVER have to download a map and it will retune itself after any mod. Beats the PCIII on my other bike hands down.
Ghost,
You don't have to get the bike dyno'ed after the PCIII install if you get the map with your current set-up on the PCIII from Fuel Moto. I purchased my PCIII from an indy who is a Dynofet franchisee. He installed it and then did the dyno pulls to map the fuel injection. Total cost was just under $600 for both the PCIII and the dyno runs. Dyno time was just over 2 hours. I just feel better having it dyno'ed and knowing that the map is exact (or as exact as it can be, depending on the tuner's talents) to my bike.
I have the AN Big Sucker as well, along with Rinehart 2-1 exhaust and my local HD dealer put them on. He wanted me tobuy the HD download, even though it wasn't for my combination--said I would ruin the bike riding it six miles to the dyno guy! Finally got the service manager to admit I could ride it easy at low rpm's for a few miles.
Called Jamie from Fuel Moto this AM and just ordered the PCIII. He told me my dealer was full of **** which I already expected. Man...I toyed with whether I really even wanted to do the Stage 1. Now a 1000.00 bucks lighter I know why.
AN Big Sucker 139.00
Download 232.00
Rush 2.0 239.00
PCIII 273.00
Definetely not worth all the hassle I have had. And I haven't even installed the PCIII yet.
Ghost,
at one grand, you are doing fine. I paid just under 1500 for my stage one, but I did none of the work. Dealer put on my Rinehart 2-1's and AN Big Sucker, and indy Dynojet guy put on the PC3 and did the dyno tuning, which lasted just over two hours.
I had no hassles, all done in four hours from start to finish. 1.5 hours at the HD dealer, and right at 2.5 for the indy guy.
I know I paid more, but I am not the best wrench in the tool bag, so I don't mind paying others for things I know I might screw up!
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