Fat Bob headlights
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Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 64
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From: Gold Coast Australia
Colin.
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Tourer
Joined: Aug 2008
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From: Southern New Hampshire
Great info guys ... thanks. And no disrespect intended with the "non US model" reference. It was simply a way to differentiate between models. I'll know better next time I reference "international" models! :-)
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Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 61
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From: NSW - AUSTRALIA
Fat Bob International Model Headlight fix
The non US models are referred to as International models. My Aussie delivered Fatbob's headlights work thus; low beam, R/H light light only (55watts); high beam, L/H light only (55 watts), I have already converted this to 65watts. When I eventually get the wiring diagram manual, I will see if I can convert it so that both lights remain on with high beam (one low beam and one high beam). Fitted a set of 1.5 inch Rush slash-downs yesterday, actually sounds like a Harley now.
Colin.
Colin.
You go into the dimmer switch wiring by taking off the left side switch cover top. Undo a small torx screww holding the harness in place. Cut the Yellow wire about 2cmm (3/4") from where it goes into the dimmer Hi/Low toggle button. Heat shrink it off. Then splice the yellow wire from the main harness into the Blue wire which leads to the breaker. Make sure it's insulated and re-assemble the switch housing. Now you'll have your left light on for Low and BOTH lights on for High. There's only 3 wires involved from the Hi/Low toggle switch so you can't go wrong. Send me a PM if you want the diagram.
Love my Fat Bob.
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Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 64
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From: Gold Coast Australia
G'day FBoz. I have one of the first Australian delivered Fat bobs and I've been trying to find ways to have both lights on (on high beam at least) without having to buy the whole assembly from the US (about US$320 + $50 shipping). Well...there's a way.
You go into the dimmer switch wiring by taking off the left side switch cover top. Undo a small torx screww holding the harness in place. Cut the Yellow wire about 2cmm (3/4") from where it goes into the dimmer Hi/Low toggle button. Heat shrink it off. Then splice the yellow wire from the main harness into the Blue wire which leads to the breaker. Make sure it's insulated and re-assemble the switch housing. Now you'll have your left light on for Low and BOTH lights on for High. There's only 3 wires involved from the Hi/Low toggle switch so you can't go wrong. Send me a PM if you want the diagram.
Love my Fat Bob.
You go into the dimmer switch wiring by taking off the left side switch cover top. Undo a small torx screww holding the harness in place. Cut the Yellow wire about 2cmm (3/4") from where it goes into the dimmer Hi/Low toggle button. Heat shrink it off. Then splice the yellow wire from the main harness into the Blue wire which leads to the breaker. Make sure it's insulated and re-assemble the switch housing. Now you'll have your left light on for Low and BOTH lights on for High. There's only 3 wires involved from the Hi/Low toggle switch so you can't go wrong. Send me a PM if you want the diagram.
Love my Fat Bob.
Fitted a pair of Rush slash down mufflers (1.5 inch baffles) yesterday, and am thinking of fitting a K&N filter into the original filter housing. Any thoughts?
Also a little concerned about how lean the engine runs, so bought and fitted a set of Nightrider XIED's today http://www.nightrider.com/parts/ These are an in-line resister, fitted between the O2 sensors and the computer, that fool the computer into thinking the engine is running lean. The computer then schedules more fuel to correct the lean signal and is supposed to bring the air fuel ratio from 14.7 down to about 13.8. Is supposed to make the engine run cooler and better. Will see tomorrow when I take it out for a ride.
Regards
Colin.
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Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 61
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From: NSW - AUSTRALIA
Thanks Mate,
I did the switch about a month ago and no problems so far. I don't see a problem in the switch assembly as the US domestic lights are both on all the time. Can't really say with your higher watt bulb. The only weak link I could see would be in the actual splice if it wasn't done correctly. I'm in the Central Coast chapter of the American Motor Cycle Club and we go on some pretty long rides, so the lights have been on High for around a 4-5 hour period non stop and no probs so far.
I've got the Screamin' Eagle Air Cleaner assembly which slims down the ham can a fair bit which I prefer. I've got the Vance & Hines Big Radius 2 into 1 system with a Dobeck Fueller and I've just changed the fork springs for Progressive with Screamin' Eagle Fork Oil. It makes a good Bike even better. Keep reading this forum and get the feel of your bob and see what you want to change to suit your style.
I'm real happy with the bike and I'll keep this one for a long time.
Hope this helps mate.
Tony
I did the switch about a month ago and no problems so far. I don't see a problem in the switch assembly as the US domestic lights are both on all the time. Can't really say with your higher watt bulb. The only weak link I could see would be in the actual splice if it wasn't done correctly. I'm in the Central Coast chapter of the American Motor Cycle Club and we go on some pretty long rides, so the lights have been on High for around a 4-5 hour period non stop and no probs so far.
I've got the Screamin' Eagle Air Cleaner assembly which slims down the ham can a fair bit which I prefer. I've got the Vance & Hines Big Radius 2 into 1 system with a Dobeck Fueller and I've just changed the fork springs for Progressive with Screamin' Eagle Fork Oil. It makes a good Bike even better. Keep reading this forum and get the feel of your bob and see what you want to change to suit your style.
I'm real happy with the bike and I'll keep this one for a long time.
Hope this helps mate.
Tony
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Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 64
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From: Gold Coast Australia
In your post about changing the wiring for high beam you mention that you end up with the left light on for low beam and both on for high beam. Should this not read right light on for low beam and both on with high selected? I only ask because low beam is the R/H side, prior to modification, on my bike. Took the bike for a run today. Seems to be running cooler since fitting those XIED's.
Colin.
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Thanks Mate,
I did the switch about a month ago and no problems so far. I don't see a problem in the switch assembly as the US domestic lights are both on all the time. Can't really say with your higher watt bulb. The only weak link I could see would be in the actual splice if it wasn't done correctly. I'm in the Central Coast chapter of the American Motor Cycle Club and we go on some pretty long rides, so the lights have been on High for around a 4-5 hour period non stop and no probs so far.
I've got the Screamin' Eagle Air Cleaner assembly which slims down the ham can a fair bit which I prefer. I've got the Vance & Hines Big Radius 2 into 1 system with a Dobeck Fueller and I've just changed the fork springs for Progressive with Screamin' Eagle Fork Oil. It makes a good Bike even better. Keep reading this forum and get the feel of your bob and see what you want to change to suit your style.
I'm real happy with the bike and I'll keep this one for a long time.
Hope this helps mate.
Tony
I did the switch about a month ago and no problems so far. I don't see a problem in the switch assembly as the US domestic lights are both on all the time. Can't really say with your higher watt bulb. The only weak link I could see would be in the actual splice if it wasn't done correctly. I'm in the Central Coast chapter of the American Motor Cycle Club and we go on some pretty long rides, so the lights have been on High for around a 4-5 hour period non stop and no probs so far.
I've got the Screamin' Eagle Air Cleaner assembly which slims down the ham can a fair bit which I prefer. I've got the Vance & Hines Big Radius 2 into 1 system with a Dobeck Fueller and I've just changed the fork springs for Progressive with Screamin' Eagle Fork Oil. It makes a good Bike even better. Keep reading this forum and get the feel of your bob and see what you want to change to suit your style.
I'm real happy with the bike and I'll keep this one for a long time.
Hope this helps mate.
Tony
https://www.hdforums.com.au/Default....686&view=topic
Also what Progressives did you fit? Where did you get them from?
Thanks
Bob
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Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 61
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From: NSW - AUSTRALIA
Reply to PigIronBob
G'day Bob,
The progressive are the standard HD length. The progressive part number is 11-1525. I used Screamin' Eagle Fork Oil. Scott from Pacific HD in Gosford did the job as you have to remove fork legs to drain out the original oil. (**** that). He thought it might be too hard with both but it has worked out perfect for me.
Check out progressivesuspension.com and go through the model selector to get your bike.
Like your lights and good to see another Aussie here.
Have a good one mate.
Tony
The progressive are the standard HD length. The progressive part number is 11-1525. I used Screamin' Eagle Fork Oil. Scott from Pacific HD in Gosford did the job as you have to remove fork legs to drain out the original oil. (**** that). He thought it might be too hard with both but it has worked out perfect for me.
Check out progressivesuspension.com and go through the model selector to get your bike.
Like your lights and good to see another Aussie here.
Have a good one mate.
Tony