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EFI to Carb conversion?

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Old Aug 11, 2009 | 04:15 PM
  #71  
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Originally Posted by Mascman
I could borrow my brother's and load my custom map, but hate to tear into his bike.

I didn't hook up the O2 sensors when I removed the PCIII but the eliminators where still hooked up.

I think that I will return it to stock and see how it plays out. If it still has the problem, I'm going to hit up the stealer and see if I can get the injectors changed...still have the 8°s.

Funny thing is, this just happened when I was leaving Johnstown from Thunder in the Valley recently...untill then all was good!

Getting carpal tunnel surgery Friday so was just busting my butt to see if I could get it cleared up before then...left was done 3 weeks ago and now my right is getting done.

Thanks for the suggestions.


.
I don't know if the o2s have anything to do with the particular issue you are having,
but, I wouldn't consider the test legitimate unless they were back in the loop.

I was gonna ask about the 8°s next.

If the dealer turns you down on swapping, (it should be no problem cause it is a known issue),
I think I have a set of 25s. keep me in mind there.

Hopefully it will work out w/o too damn much trouble.

mud




.
 
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Old Aug 11, 2009 | 04:18 PM
  #72  
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Steve Zodiac
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I can't see any advantage of going to carbs if the bike is running OK on the EFI. Once you have the PCIII you just program whatever map you need as and when you modify the bike. The cost of the pipes, filter, cams, heads etc are going to be pretty much the same whatever fuel system you have.

If I had a choice however, I'd choose carbs over EFI every time. My favorite carb is the flat slide Mikuni which will give a noticeable difference in throttle response when converting from a CV. I recently fitted a Mikuni to one of my older bikes and the difference was astonishing.

I'll stick with the EFI on my bob until it goes wrong because I doubt if fitting a carb will improve anything.

If you do it let us know what happens.
 
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Old Aug 11, 2009 | 04:28 PM
  #73  
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Originally Posted by Steve Zodiac
I can't see any advantage of going to carbs if the bike is running OK on the EFI. Once you have the PCIII you just program whatever map you need as and when you modify the bike. The cost of the pipes, filter, cams, heads etc are going to be pretty much the same whatever fuel system you have.

If I had a choice however, I'd choose carbs over EFI every time. My favorite carb is the flat slide Mikuni which will give a noticeable difference in throttle response when converting from a CV. I recently fitted a Mikuni to one of my older bikes and the difference was astonishing.

I'll stick with the EFI on my bob until it goes wrong because I doubt if fitting a carb will improve anything.

If you do it let us know what happens.
I agree that the FI is nice until something happens out of warranty..

I've spent a ton of time on diagnosing this problem. Just changing the intake seals took 3 hours...imagine paying a shop $90 an hour to diagnose for you!

If it had a carb, i believe it would have been fixed already or would at least be diagnosed as the problem or not.

I can jet my dirt bikes, so this would be no different if it had a carb. My last street bike had a carb and no problems tuning it either.
 
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Old Aug 11, 2009 | 04:29 PM
  #74  
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Originally Posted by mud
.
I don't know if the o2s have anything to do with the particular issue you are having,
but, I wouldn't consider the test legitimate unless they were back in the loop.

I was gonna ask about the 8°s next.

If the dealer turns you down on swapping, (it should be no problem cause it is a known issue),
I think I have a set of 25s. keep me in mind there.

Hopefully it will work out w/o too damn much trouble.

mud




.
Thank you...will keep you in mind.
 
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Old Aug 11, 2009 | 05:17 PM
  #75  
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I have changed out the whole computer, exhaust, and air cleaner. Cost me $1900 in parts about 7 hours and a small bit of metal work on the exhaust mount. Had to cut it apart and reweld it and am happier than a pig in you know what. Computer is Zippers. Exhaust is Martin Bros. A/C is Mo-flo. Its all on a 2008 Dyna Street Bob. Throttle response is great. Gas mileage is a bit better and bike is much stronger. All is fully adjustable at my home by my laptop. Not that I have ever really minded but I dont have to get dirty and smell like gas as happens with a carb. Of course I am waiting on a new hard drive mine went to hell. So I am waiting to make a couple minor adjustments but in my opinion its the only way to go with an FI system. I have had carbs before and just some alltitude changes were a pain in my ***. No problems with all that anymore as I ride in the mountains a lot. All has been on the bike for almost 6 months and I love my new bike.
 
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Old Aug 11, 2009 | 07:16 PM
  #76  
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No point in trying to explain to you, as you sound happily stuck in the times. Enjoy your carbs buddy. We'll all enjoy the fuel injection that get much better throttle response, MPG, and reliability then the wonderful carbs, except on your bike?


Originally Posted by Road6Customs
tell everybody what. When you find a EFI bike that sounds like a Harley... Let me know. I've owned 3 twin cam CARBED bikes, all ran with out a hitch. One had big bore and cams, rejetted the carb, and ran beatifully for over 65,000 miles until i totalled it. My brand new Night train has EFI, and i hate it. It idels like a Farmall tractor, gets crap fuel milage, and is gutless. Explain to me why my 2002 Carbed Deuce with a 5 speed and a more or less stock 88" engine (52,000 miles) Blows away my EFI 08 Night Train and gets 6mpg better at the pump? Oh yeah, and the Deuce sounds like a Harley should. My Night Train is basically a $17,000 Honda. I hate the way it runs, sounds, and the fuel economy sucks. My 2004 Carbed Electraglide with the 95" big bore kit and 5 speed got better milage. How much more does an E-glide weigh in at vs. a softail? One less gear? Better milage? More power? Dont add up boys, ill covert mine in a heartbeat. Another complaint, and according to HD there is nothing that can be done about it... 08 models have a speed sensor that wont let the bike idle down until it stops moving. How stupid is that? its dangerous too. I hate my fuel injection, and i have owned enough carb bikes with absolutely no issues (all with over 50k on them without touching the carb) that ill stay with what works. Nothing against you guys that are in love with fuel injection. It is a fact that HD WANTS you to come in and spend money on repairs. They make more money off of fuel injection, weither it be remapping your bike for something as simple as an exhaust change or fixing the fuel line inside your tank coming off the fuel pump when it rubs a hole through and you lose fuel pressure (if it hasnt done it yet, it will). Why do we need a clock with a million moving parts when all we have to do is look and see if the suns up? And for you tuners, my Night train has been retuned for the pipes and air cleaner.
 
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Old Aug 11, 2009 | 07:44 PM
  #77  
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Hey Mac, I have read some articles in AIM where they talk about runability issues. One dealt with the engine temp sensor not throwing a code because it was still in the accepted range but it was registering the wrong temp. Hope that makes sense. I guess what I'm trying to express is it could still be a sensor and not throw a code. How to check for it is beyond me. Good luck with it.
 
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Old Aug 11, 2009 | 09:08 PM
  #78  
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Originally Posted by ackman1968
Hey Mac, I have read some articles in AIM where they talk about runability issues. One dealt with the engine temp sensor not throwing a code because it was still in the accepted range but it was registering the wrong temp. Hope that makes sense. I guess what I'm trying to express is it could still be a sensor and not throw a code. How to check for it is beyond me. Good luck with it.
Exactly...that's what is driving me crazy!

I did switch out the temp sensor with my brother's...wasn't the problem.

I also tried his plug wires and ignition pack.

It's hard to get to the torx screws on all the electrical stuff on the TB and almost requires that you take out each TB to make changes.

Do I really want to tear 2 bikes down, put one back together and repeat 3 to 4 times?!
 
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Old Aug 12, 2009 | 05:51 PM
  #79  
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Tore bike down and set it back to stock.

Seems to idle just fine without the PCIII. The O2s are hooked up and stock exhaust and ac are on.

Now what do I do?

Buy another tuner and hope it lasts or just get a download?

I want to run my SE AC and Python 2-1s but money has gotten much tighter for me!!

Really enjoyed the power with the PCIII and dyno tune, but when it **** the bed, I realized that even a stock bike is better than none!!

Is there a downlaod from HD that will work with full pipes and hi-flow AC? Looking for the cheapest way out here!
 
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Old Aug 12, 2009 | 06:11 PM
  #80  
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ditch the pc3 and get a tts/masterune then tune your bike yourself. trust me you will

be happy!!! no more dynos just use the v-tune software that comes with it and do your

own so called dynos!!!

i got mine from fuelmoto it was around 350.00.
 
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