another rattlecan question...
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Road Warrior
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,641
Likes: 4
From: south of Boston
another rattlecan question...
anyone have an opinion about what's better: Lacquer or Enamel
I've been reading up on both and there seems to be an equal amount of pros and cons by users.
However, when you go to the manufacturers of both, I'm finding that Lacquer seems to be a better choice due to drying time and durability. Enamel, on the other hand requires some significant drying time (curing) and is a bit difficult to buff to the shine you want.
Anyone have any thoughts on the matter?
I've been reading up on both and there seems to be an equal amount of pros and cons by users.
However, when you go to the manufacturers of both, I'm finding that Lacquer seems to be a better choice due to drying time and durability. Enamel, on the other hand requires some significant drying time (curing) and is a bit difficult to buff to the shine you want.
Anyone have any thoughts on the matter?
2nd Gear
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
From: Georgia
Enamel is the most durable and really not that hard to work with. After it dries for 24 hours water sand it to 2000 then rubbing compound and polish. Take your time and no one will know it was done in your garage.
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Road Warrior
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,641
Likes: 4
From: south of Boston
Acrylic lacquer sucks.
I painted 2 pieces with enamel nearly two weeks ago, and so they're 'cured'. I'm going to wetsand them, and then put a few more coats on them, and let them 'cure' again. I have the time.
When that's done, I'll wetsand with 1500 or something, and buff them.
I'm also considering a 2 stage rattlecan process for the part I've been experimenting on. Dupont sells a 2 stage spraypaint set up where you buy the basecoat in a rattlecan, followed by the clearcoat.
This is essentially how it's done in a body shop with an HVLP setup.
Basecoat cans are like 25.00, however.
I painted 2 pieces with enamel nearly two weeks ago, and so they're 'cured'. I'm going to wetsand them, and then put a few more coats on them, and let them 'cure' again. I have the time.
When that's done, I'll wetsand with 1500 or something, and buff them.
I'm also considering a 2 stage rattlecan process for the part I've been experimenting on. Dupont sells a 2 stage spraypaint set up where you buy the basecoat in a rattlecan, followed by the clearcoat.
This is essentially how it's done in a body shop with an HVLP setup.
Basecoat cans are like 25.00, however.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 7,562
Likes: 11
From: Palm Harbor fl.
oh yee of little faith!!! we told you so... lol
wet sand to 2000 and the results will be much more professional grade
wet sand to 2000 and the results will be much more professional grade
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Road Master
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,047
Likes: 1
From: fresno california
i did my horn cover with black enamel rattle can paint let it dry and then hit it with clear coat lacquer came out nice
freebyrd
freebyrd
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Road Warrior
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,641
Likes: 4
From: south of Boston
the lacquer just didn't seem to dry right... it was 'spotty'...if that makes any sense
the enamel's particles seemed to 'spread' and even out as it dried
... one thing i did try, though, on my practice piece- i hit it with black sandable primer, and then hit it with clear coat like a 2 stage process.... it actually came out better than the straight gloss black lacquer
the enamel's particles seemed to 'spread' and even out as it dried
... one thing i did try, though, on my practice piece- i hit it with black sandable primer, and then hit it with clear coat like a 2 stage process.... it actually came out better than the straight gloss black lacquer
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