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Dyna Glide ModelsSuper Glide, Super Glide Sport, Super Glide Custom, Dyna Glide Convertible, Super Glide T-Sport, Dyna Glide Police, Dyna Switchback, Low Rider, Street Bob, Fat Bob and Wide Glide.
I recently bought an '09 Fat Bob...within 200 miles several problems were noticed:
1. FRONT END CLUNK....took it in at 200 miles and was told the front end was retorqued..was test ridden by the regional service rep and was told that there was no problem (of course). Now at 800 miles the clunk/rattle is back and is getting worse. Called H-D and was told this is "normal" Also, my fork lock doesn't turn to lock and is non-functioning. Is this the famous "Dyna Clunk" issue?
2. Rear brake doesn't work. I could step on it with all my weight and the bike doesn't even slow. Was told by the very rude service chick at the North East Dealer I bought it from that I didn't know how to ride my bike and that the rear brake isn't supposed to work. Funny, what is that big disc like thing and caliper there for?
3. Paint blemish on rear fender...not sure if they will correct his or not.
I also own a Sportster and this FB is my second H-D. I am also a former Porsche/Audi/VW mechanic and I have worked on many makes/models of cars..so I know how things work...
Going to another stealership today to have them look at it (as per suggested by H-D) But, I am sure ot get a song and dance and will wear hip waders to prevent bodily contact from the BS that will be rising.
LOL...I have the same issues (1 and 2) with my new '09 SB....the "clunk" in the forks and I can stand on the rear brake pedal and there's no way I'll ever have to worry about locking up the rear tire. Engine braking helps alot though...
I feel your pain. My 09 street Bob has the clunck too, was told by the dealer it was the front floating brake caliper. As for the steering lock, you just need to turn the fork all the way to the right , get a screwdriver and look under the lower T, by the frame head. The pin that locks the fork get push back toward the frame. Move the pin with the screwdriver toward the front so it can line up with the hole in the fork.
Good luck.
Em.
I'm having the same problem with my rear brake on an 09 Fat Bob. However, definitely gained some improvement by getting the rear wheel aligned better than it was when I picked the bike up. Dealer did it using the alignment holes in the swingarm. I strongly suspect that the alignment holes in the swingarm don't have anything to do with the wheel being true, either to the caliper, or to the front wheel. If I lock the throttle and let go of the bars it constantly pulls left. I have a lift at home and am going to follow the instructions in the service manual (minus the alignment holes) and take a shot at fixing the alignment myself. Will write back after this weekend and let you know if that fixes the brake all together.
No clunk in the front end yet, just finished changing out the stock fork oil for heavy duty oil. The stock stuff was way too mushy for my taste.
1. easy fix on the front end clunk. New hardened washer on the steer head. then torque to 70 ft lbs.
2. rear brake...go to the tech threads and look up rear wheel alignment. Check yours first then if it is off re-align.
3. Rear brake master cyl. remove the cap and see if it is filled to the brim. If so siphon out 1/8" of brake fluid. Blue loctite the cap screws and do not over tighten. But if you have less than 500 miles wait until your brake pads settle in.
4. Lube fork lock with WD40 or cable lube and do not push key in when turning it to on or lock.
Thanks KBFXDLI.... I never made it to the stealership today...will go tomorrow-it is one of those things where they are just going to test ride it. I am going to suggest the new washer fix and see the reaction... then I am going to mention my cousin is a "Lemon Law" attorney (Lemon Law doesn't apply here in PA, but breech of warranty does) and then see his reaction. When I took it in the first time, I was told that NO ONE else has this problem with Dynas...and made me feel like I was wasting their time. It is probably their philosophy to try to avoid as much warranty work as possible...my guess is that they get paid on a much smaller scale than a person coming in off the street off warranty. I'll bet if my bike was out of warranty, they would have had a 20 piece marching band with trumpeted fanfare waiting for me since they get $70.00 an hour and would have taken several hours to diagnose and fix the problem. Whereas, H-D is probably going to give them less and less hours to do the work flat rate...just my .02.
Look on the other threads here and get a copy of the TSB then take it with you and show it to them. Fwiw, the new washer is hardened and will not compress like the old one. So over torquing the old washer is not the answer.
I have a 2007 FXD. I also had a clunk in the front end. A couplemonths ago, I replaced the terribly soft front springs with triple springs from Works. Hard to describe how much better it handles,,PLUS no more "clunk".
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