Install Forwards
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 7,562
Likes: 11
From: Palm Harbor fl.
don't forget the piece that secures the mid control in place that attaches to case bolt.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 3,124
Likes: 255
From: From Long Island, now in So. Cal
Here's some info below on installing the Harley Davidson forward controls.
Originally Posted by WS6 Formula
You don't have to remove the primary on the 2006 and up Dyna's
The 2006 and up kit instructions requires you to remove the primary to install a longer rear transmission shift lever and to remove the original shifter shaft that goes through the primary cover. Both can be done without removing the primary.
I installed the 2005 kit (P/N 49080-03A)with a longer 2006 custom polished stainless steel shift rod (P/N 33815-06)that comes with the stronger heim joints (they won't break like the original joints). You have to use a longer shift rod with the 2005 kit other wise the front shift lever will hit the primary when you up shift. The custom shift rods are a lot nicer then the cadmium plated shift rod in the kit and the original that came with the bike.
Removing the original shift shaft lever
Get a hacksaw blade and tape each end with duct tape, leaving about two inches exposed in the middle. Also put some duct tape on the primary and cylinder cooling fins. Tape a wrench on one end to get a better grip (on the end of the blade so as you pull on the wrench you will be on the cutting stroke of the blade). Slip the blade between the primary and engine from the bottom of the bike with the wrench end on the bottom. Position the shaft so you can cut about a quarter inch from the lever (not in the welded area). Use your other hand to guide the top of the blade as you cut. After cutting through, the shaft will slide right out, and the lever will just fall to the floor.
Cover for the original shift shaft lever hole
I used a chrome carriage bolt http://www.chromebolt.com/51618-x-134-chrome-carriage-bolt-p-845.html, and put a two inch piece of rubber hose on the threads then added some shrink sleeving on the hose to get a nice snug press fit into the empty shaft hole. If you have a black primary: Paint a unplated carriage bolt. Aluminum cover: Scotch brite a chrome carriage bolt.
Installing the new rear trans shift lever
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-glide-models/220845-did-the-oem-forward-controls-last-week.html
(Don't do it, leave in the original) Using the original rear transmission shift arm has two benefits, appearance and performance. The shift rod will sit at a more level position, and you will also have a shorter shift throw.
Forward control part numbers here:
http://www.harley-davidson.com/gma/g...bmLocale=en_US
Shift linkage part numbers here:
http://www.harley-davidson.com/brows...bmLocale=en_US
Check prices here:
http://www.chicagoharley.com/shop/
https://www.zanottimotor.com/shopping/partLookUp.html
Larger image here:
http://img56.imageshack.us/img56/276...1020x63bz2.jpg
Larger image here:
http://img56.imageshack.us/img56/437...2008059kp3.jpg
You don't have to remove the primary on the 2006 and up Dyna's
The 2006 and up kit instructions requires you to remove the primary to install a longer rear transmission shift lever and to remove the original shifter shaft that goes through the primary cover. Both can be done without removing the primary.
I installed the 2005 kit (P/N 49080-03A)with a longer 2006 custom polished stainless steel shift rod (P/N 33815-06)that comes with the stronger heim joints (they won't break like the original joints). You have to use a longer shift rod with the 2005 kit other wise the front shift lever will hit the primary when you up shift. The custom shift rods are a lot nicer then the cadmium plated shift rod in the kit and the original that came with the bike.
Removing the original shift shaft lever
Get a hacksaw blade and tape each end with duct tape, leaving about two inches exposed in the middle. Also put some duct tape on the primary and cylinder cooling fins. Tape a wrench on one end to get a better grip (on the end of the blade so as you pull on the wrench you will be on the cutting stroke of the blade). Slip the blade between the primary and engine from the bottom of the bike with the wrench end on the bottom. Position the shaft so you can cut about a quarter inch from the lever (not in the welded area). Use your other hand to guide the top of the blade as you cut. After cutting through, the shaft will slide right out, and the lever will just fall to the floor.
Cover for the original shift shaft lever hole
I used a chrome carriage bolt http://www.chromebolt.com/51618-x-134-chrome-carriage-bolt-p-845.html, and put a two inch piece of rubber hose on the threads then added some shrink sleeving on the hose to get a nice snug press fit into the empty shaft hole. If you have a black primary: Paint a unplated carriage bolt. Aluminum cover: Scotch brite a chrome carriage bolt.
Installing the new rear trans shift lever
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-glide-models/220845-did-the-oem-forward-controls-last-week.html
(Don't do it, leave in the original) Using the original rear transmission shift arm has two benefits, appearance and performance. The shift rod will sit at a more level position, and you will also have a shorter shift throw.
Forward control part numbers here:
http://www.harley-davidson.com/gma/g...bmLocale=en_US
Shift linkage part numbers here:
http://www.harley-davidson.com/brows...bmLocale=en_US
Check prices here:
http://www.chicagoharley.com/shop/
https://www.zanottimotor.com/shopping/partLookUp.html
Larger image here:
http://img56.imageshack.us/img56/276...1020x63bz2.jpg
Larger image here:
http://img56.imageshack.us/img56/437...2008059kp3.jpg
Thread Starter
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Road Master
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,181
Likes: 2
Hey WS6 you seem to have some knowlege on the whole cutting the shaft. Believe me I want to do the install myself. So what I am getting is if you cut the shaft behind the primary the shift lever will fall and then you can just pull the shaft out through the outer primary cover? So then is the only reason to do it the hd way is to put the plug covers that come with the kit and that the shaft would be reusable for a future reinstall back to mids?
Road Warrior
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 1,530
Likes: 1
From: Upstate, SC
Hey WS6 you seem to have some knowlege on the whole cutting the shaft. Believe me I want to do the install myself. So what I am getting is if you cut the shaft behind the primary the shift lever will fall and then you can just pull the shaft out through the outer primary cover? So then is the only reason to do it the hd way is to put the plug covers that come with the kit and that the shaft would be reusable for a future reinstall back to mids?
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 3,124
Likes: 255
From: From Long Island, now in So. Cal
Hey WS6 you seem to have some knowlege on the whole cutting the shaft. Believe me I want to do the install myself. So what I am getting is if you cut the shaft behind the primary the shift lever will fall and then you can just pull the shaft out through the outer primary cover?
So then is the only reason to do it the hd way is to put the plug covers that come with the kit and that the shaft would be reusable for a future reinstall back to mids?
So then is the only reason to do it the hd way is to put the plug covers that come with the kit and that the shaft would be reusable for a future reinstall back to mids?
Yes. just like what "Gary7" wrote below
If you cut the shaft out then you can use the plug that comes in the 2006 and up kit, if your indecisive, leave the shaft in there until you put some riding time on the bike to make sure you like the forwards, then cut the shaft out.
Also keep in mind the instructions I posted are for installing the 2005 and earlier kit. Some have installed the 2006 and up kit and had problems finding neutral, I not sure but the 2006 and up kit may have a longer front shift lever and that would shorten the movement needed even more when using the original rear shift lever.
I think Harley's 2006 and up kit may have been designed to help the dealership service departments make money, especially if they figured out that they don't have to pull the primary to change the rear shift lever.
Road Warrior
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 1,530
Likes: 1
From: Upstate, SC
I said, no it's so you guys can bill 5 hours of labor for a job that need not take more than an hour. I looked the guy square in the eye and said "Doesn't it bother you to break open a brand new engine to install friggin forward controls? Isn't there something wrong with that picture?" He just shrugged.
Cruiser
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 142
Likes: 0
From: Cincinnati
Shift lever retaining bracket
The retaining bracket number is 34639-01 (01/later) and 34639-93 (93-00). You will also need a 5/16-18 x 5/8 hex screw with lock nut to attach the bracket to the shift shaft.
Club Member
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 4,474
Likes: 6
From: Port Charlotte, Florida
Thanks dagored and rounder those part numbers are correct i just came from the dealer stopped on way home from work the chrome cover is $19 bucks and the bracket to hold in place is $11 bucks. Didn't check bolt and nut price cause ill get that at local hardware cheaper. Iam just going to get this stuff had to order it and be done with it for now and if i ever need to open up the primary i will remove the shaft then.
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