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Old Feb 20, 2009 | 10:10 PM
  #31  
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KBFXDLI
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I hate to barge in here but what did Ron use to grind off the inner primary? A dremmel maybe?
 
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Old Feb 20, 2009 | 10:25 PM
  #32  
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Not sure if he used a dremel or a die grinder, it wasn't much ....about 1/16" so I imagine a die grinder.
 
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Old Feb 20, 2009 | 11:11 PM
  #33  
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I plan on changing my primary cover out for one without the shift shaft hole. I fugured I would check the rotor then. My intentions are to replace the bolts with new ones and use the Loctite green retaining compound. It's much stronger than the red and should do the trick.
 
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Old Feb 20, 2009 | 11:18 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by sniper77
.
Yes, I ordered it and am waiting for CHD to get it and then send it to me.

***********************

I will simply buy a couple of Orings and get it done.
Good deal....... Looking forward to hearing your opinion when you get it.

What year is your machine???

If you remove the inner,
I do believe you will need 5 sealing bolts
and the inner primary to crankcase seal.

Keep a close watch on the alignment dowels.
Don't let them get away.
They can be real hard to recover.. specially for a 49er..........
2 on starter... 2 on inner to outer....

and, I do believe the 08 09 have dowels between inner case and trans case
(this is the upgrade that I believe is the cure for Inner Primary Bearing failures
my 006 does not have these dowels)

Originally Posted by KBFXDLI
.
I hate to barge in here but what did Ron use to grind off the inner primary? A dremmel maybe?
KB, dremel..... Foredom.......... die grinder..... or similar

I have seen it come off without grinding,
I always remove the inner case.

Next time I remove the case, I may clearance while it is off.
Messy operation with it in place.
Cover everything well if you do it in place. Lotsa shavings flying.

mud

.
 
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Old Feb 21, 2009 | 06:17 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by mudpuddle
Good deal....... Looking forward to hearing your opinion when you get it.

What year is your machine???
'06

Originally Posted by mudpuddle
If you remove the inner,
I do believe you will need 5 sealing bolts
and the inner primary to crankcase seal.
Thanks, I wonder if I should replace the INA when I take off the inner.....I'll have to read the manual to see if I need special tools or if it is over my head.

Originally Posted by mudpuddle
Keep a close watch on the alignment dowels.
Don't let them get away.
They can be real hard to recover.. specially for a 49er..........
2 on starter... 2 on inner to outer....

and, I do believe the 08 09 have dowels between inner case and trans case
(this is the upgrade that I believe is the cure for Inner Primary Bearing failures
my 006 does not have these dowels)
Thanks for the heads up on those dowels. I set down a tube of blue loctite while doing the true track install and lost it until I was cleaning up and putting away the tools.......good thing I had a spare in the toolbox.
 
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Old Feb 21, 2009 | 10:35 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by sniper77
Yes, I ordered it and am waiting for CHD to get it and then send it to me.

From everything I have read, it is a direct bolt on replacement. Some of the guys that have installed it have gone with a shortcut leaving the inner primary on and grinding the front of the inner primary away for clearance. rbabos is the one tech member that did it, I believe, but can't find the thread right now. He was working on a softail so the primary is different from ours. No biggie either way for me if when I take off the outer I find taking off the inner is mandatory I will simply buy a couple of Orings and get it done.
I'm really looking forward to this in hopes that some of the excessive vibration I'm getting will be addressed.
Thats what i did. I used a die grinder with a Cutting wheel and shaved the inside of the inner primary so that the rotor would come off, it was real easy to do.
 
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Old Feb 21, 2009 | 05:40 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by dynarule
Thats what i did. I used a die grinder with a Cutting wheel and shaved the inside of the inner primary so that the rotor would come off, it was real easy to do.
Awesome. That looks like the easiest way to tackle it.
 
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Old Feb 22, 2009 | 10:09 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by sniper77
Awesome. That looks like the easiest way to tackle it.
Yes it is the easy way to do it. I only needed to shave about a 1/16 to get clearance and the rotor came right off. A gasket is like $35 at the stealer and a new crank bolt that was $7 and 1 qt of oil for $4. Thats a cheep fix if you do it before it grenades. BTW you dont even have to take the clutch assy out to do this, Once the tensioner is out and the crank bolt removed there is enough slak in the chain to pull it right off without removing the clutch.
 

Last edited by dynarule; Feb 22, 2009 at 10:12 AM.
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Old Feb 22, 2009 | 11:02 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by dynarule
Yes it is the easy way to do it. I only needed to shave about a 1/16 to get clearance and the rotor came right off. A gasket is like $35 at the stealer and a new crank bolt that was $7 and 1 qt of oil for $4. Thats a cheep fix if you do it before it grenades. BTW you dont even have to take the clutch assy out to do this, Once the tensioner is out and the crank bolt removed there is enough slak in the chain to pull it right off without removing the clutch.
That saves time and effort not taking the clutch pac off, thanks.
 
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Old Apr 29, 2009 | 02:22 PM
  #40  
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Update!!

After running with the SE compensator for two months I am sorry to say the rotor does NOT work with the '06 stator.

The new rotor, that comes with the SE compensator, is physically larger in diameter than the '06 rotor. The clearance between the rotor and stator is too great to properly operate the electrical system.

If you own an '06 Dyna and want to upgrade your two-piece rotor with the SE Compensator you must buy an '07 stator for your electrical system to function properly.
 
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