Break-In
Road Master
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 1,012
Likes: 2
1.) I concur
2.) Follow the manufacturers break in schedule, BUT, focus on HEAT cycles, riding the bike and running the engine get up to operating temperature, then ride it for 50-100 miles at varying RPMs then let the bike cool completely before riding it again.
06 Denim FXDBI
2.) Follow the manufacturers break in schedule, BUT, focus on HEAT cycles, riding the bike and running the engine get up to operating temperature, then ride it for 50-100 miles at varying RPMs then let the bike cool completely before riding it again.
06 Denim FXDBI
2) Kinda passed the breakin period (based on mfgr recommendations), so essentially there is no validity to someone stating that ALL bikes require a 2000 breakin period, correct?
Road Warrior
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 1,380
Likes: 1
From: ,,
Yeah, 2000 miles does sound excessive. Your motor will keep loosening up for a little bit after the break in but change the oil in a few weeks and you'll be fine.
I changed my oil at 600 and at 2400 when I got the bike and I've had no problems.
I changed my oil at 600 and at 2400 when I got the bike and I've had no problems.
Cruiser
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 202
Likes: 0
From: Capistrano Beach, CA
2. Yes, no validity. All engines have a little different break in schedule for best performance. For example, race engines are broke in significantly different than production engines. Your Harley will be fine now, just ride it and have fun.
Last edited by Motosurf; Apr 6, 2009 at 09:16 PM.
Elite HDF Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 4,579
Likes: 10
From: S.E. MO
I have done mine at 1k, then at 3k (I had to drain the fluids anyway to install chrome motor package) and again at 7k.
As far as breaking it in if your at 450 its time to stop thinking about it.
As far as breaking it in if your at 450 its time to stop thinking about it.
Road Captain
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 689
Likes: 6
From: Glen Rose TX
I agree that today's engines do not really require the extensive break-ins that older ones did that had the cross-hatched lines in the cylinders.
I wish I had an article from a builder I read a couple of years ago but.. .. anyhow the jest of it was to crank up the motor and do a short warm up then shut it down and check it over. Then take it out on a long ride and while not wringing it's neck out do ride it at 30-80 throttle for a good long time letting the motor come to a good high temperature. The fuller throttles will force the rings into the cylinder walls more and seat them instead of lighter throttles that allow more of a light scrapping. My last new bike I intentionally picked it up at the dealer and then headed down to a sons house that was about 60 miles away all on nice open and winding farm-market roads. I rode fairly aggressively but with the thought that I was on a unfamiliar bike and was "Breaking it in".
Do not do a bunch of starting stopping light load and short runs.
Ideally at the end of this long run I'd change the oil.
I wish I had an article from a builder I read a couple of years ago but.. .. anyhow the jest of it was to crank up the motor and do a short warm up then shut it down and check it over. Then take it out on a long ride and while not wringing it's neck out do ride it at 30-80 throttle for a good long time letting the motor come to a good high temperature. The fuller throttles will force the rings into the cylinder walls more and seat them instead of lighter throttles that allow more of a light scrapping. My last new bike I intentionally picked it up at the dealer and then headed down to a sons house that was about 60 miles away all on nice open and winding farm-market roads. I rode fairly aggressively but with the thought that I was on a unfamiliar bike and was "Breaking it in".
Do not do a bunch of starting stopping light load and short runs.
Ideally at the end of this long run I'd change the oil.
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