forward controls now I Cant find neutral:::::::::::
Supporter
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 15,788
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From: along the shore of Mishigami
Both of my dynas , an 02 and 05, still have the original shift levers running thru the primary. When I installed the fwd controls the bikes were in neutral and the long gear shift linkages and foot shift arm were adjusted to to my foot via the splines on that shaft and the adjustable rod ends on the shift linkage to the foot end and trans lever end. No problems for many, many thousands of miles.
Cruiser
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 218
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From: Detroit-ish
I put on my forwards and did not split the primary, I had a hell of a time getting it into N at first but after 2 seasons of riding I have no trouble, I can even hit it coming down out of 2nd is I need to now, maybe things just loosened up with a little wear, or maybe I just got better at it
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 3,124
Likes: 255
From: From Long Island, now in So. Cal
This has come up before, people that have had problems finding neutral are the ones that used the 2006 and later kit instead of using the 2005 and earlier kit. But you can still swap out the rear lever without removing the primary, or use a 2005 and earlier front lever.
Originally Posted by Ws6 formula
You don't have to remove the primary on the 2006 and up Dyna's
The 2006 and up kit instructions requires you to remove the primary to install a longer rear transmission shift lever and to remove the original shifter shaft that goes through the primary cover. Both can be done without removing the primary.
I installed the 2005 kit (P/N 49080-03A)with a longer 2006 custom polished stainless steel shift rod (P/N 33815-06)that comes with the stronger heim joints (they won't break like the original joints). You have to use a longer shift rod with the 2005 kit other wise the front shift lever will hit the primary when you up shift. The custom shift rods are a lot nicer then the cadmium plated shift rod in the kit and the original that came with the bike.
Removing the original shift shaft lever
Get a hacksaw blade and tape each end with duct tape, leaving about two inches exposed in the middle. Also put some duct tape on the primary and cylinder cooling fins. Tape a wrench on one end to get a better grip (on the end of the blade so as you pull on the wrench you will be on the cutting stroke of the blade). Slip the blade between the primary and engine from the bottom of the bike with the wrench end on the bottom. Position the shaft so you can cut about a quarter inch from the lever (not in the welded area). Use your other hand to guide the top of the blade as you cut. After cutting through, the shaft will slide right out, and the lever will just fall to the floor.
Cover for the original shift shaft lever hole
I used a chrome carriage bolt http://www.chromebolt.com/51618-x-134-chrome-carriage-bolt-p-845.html, and put a two inch piece of rubber hose on the threads then added some shrink sleeving on the hose to get a nice snug press fit into the empty shaft hole. If you have a black primary: Paint a unplated carriage bolt. Aluminum cover: Scotch brite a chrome carriage bolt.
Installing the new rear trans shift lever
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-glide-models/220845-did-the-oem-forward-controls-last-week.html
(Don't do it, leave in the original) Using the original rear transmission shift arm has two benefits, appearance and performance. The shift rod will sit at a more level position, and you will also have a shorter shift throw.
Forward control part numbers here:
http://www.harley-davidson.com/gma/g...bmLocale=en_US
Shift linkage part numbers here:
http://www.harley-davidson.com/brows...bmLocale=en_US
Check prices here:
http://www.chicagoharley.com/shop/
https://www.zanottimotor.com/shopping/partLookUp.html
Larger image here:
http://img56.imageshack.us/img56/276...1020x63bz2.jpg
Larger image here:
http://img56.imageshack.us/img56/437...2008059kp3.jpg
You don't have to remove the primary on the 2006 and up Dyna's
The 2006 and up kit instructions requires you to remove the primary to install a longer rear transmission shift lever and to remove the original shifter shaft that goes through the primary cover. Both can be done without removing the primary.
I installed the 2005 kit (P/N 49080-03A)with a longer 2006 custom polished stainless steel shift rod (P/N 33815-06)that comes with the stronger heim joints (they won't break like the original joints). You have to use a longer shift rod with the 2005 kit other wise the front shift lever will hit the primary when you up shift. The custom shift rods are a lot nicer then the cadmium plated shift rod in the kit and the original that came with the bike.
Removing the original shift shaft lever
Get a hacksaw blade and tape each end with duct tape, leaving about two inches exposed in the middle. Also put some duct tape on the primary and cylinder cooling fins. Tape a wrench on one end to get a better grip (on the end of the blade so as you pull on the wrench you will be on the cutting stroke of the blade). Slip the blade between the primary and engine from the bottom of the bike with the wrench end on the bottom. Position the shaft so you can cut about a quarter inch from the lever (not in the welded area). Use your other hand to guide the top of the blade as you cut. After cutting through, the shaft will slide right out, and the lever will just fall to the floor.
Cover for the original shift shaft lever hole
I used a chrome carriage bolt http://www.chromebolt.com/51618-x-134-chrome-carriage-bolt-p-845.html, and put a two inch piece of rubber hose on the threads then added some shrink sleeving on the hose to get a nice snug press fit into the empty shaft hole. If you have a black primary: Paint a unplated carriage bolt. Aluminum cover: Scotch brite a chrome carriage bolt.
Installing the new rear trans shift lever
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-glide-models/220845-did-the-oem-forward-controls-last-week.html
(Don't do it, leave in the original) Using the original rear transmission shift arm has two benefits, appearance and performance. The shift rod will sit at a more level position, and you will also have a shorter shift throw.
Forward control part numbers here:
http://www.harley-davidson.com/gma/g...bmLocale=en_US
Shift linkage part numbers here:
http://www.harley-davidson.com/brows...bmLocale=en_US
Check prices here:
http://www.chicagoharley.com/shop/
https://www.zanottimotor.com/shopping/partLookUp.html
Larger image here:
http://img56.imageshack.us/img56/276...1020x63bz2.jpg
Larger image here:
http://img56.imageshack.us/img56/437...2008059kp3.jpg
Cruiser
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 138
Likes: 0
From: Central New Jersey
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loosnut
Dyna Glide Models
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Feb 2, 2011 02:44 PM
