Am I getting myself in too deep with front end?
Thread Starter
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Road Captain
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 577
Likes: 2
From: Brampton, Ontario, Canada
Am I getting myself in too deep with front end?
Hey guys,
With the weather getting colder up hear in the north, I've been thinking more and more about my plans for winter mods for my 08 street bob. For a while, I've been planning on getting the sliders, trees, sigs, shocks, forwards powder coated flat black. I plan on taking everything apart and dropping it off.
I'm not an expert wrench, however I've done the ac/pipes, apes, true track and a bunch of other stuff. I've read through the manual on the procedures a few times, but I know things get a little easier once everything is in front of you rather than in a book. My question is, am I getting myself in too deep?
My biggest concerns are the front sliders and trees. Always have the ol' 'leave well enough alone' saying in the back of my head. Any input/tips would be appreciated!
With the weather getting colder up hear in the north, I've been thinking more and more about my plans for winter mods for my 08 street bob. For a while, I've been planning on getting the sliders, trees, sigs, shocks, forwards powder coated flat black. I plan on taking everything apart and dropping it off.
I'm not an expert wrench, however I've done the ac/pipes, apes, true track and a bunch of other stuff. I've read through the manual on the procedures a few times, but I know things get a little easier once everything is in front of you rather than in a book. My question is, am I getting myself in too deep?
My biggest concerns are the front sliders and trees. Always have the ol' 'leave well enough alone' saying in the back of my head. Any input/tips would be appreciated!
Road Captain
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 552
Likes: 1
From: Long Island, NY
I say if you can spare the cash and have the time - go for it. Take your time - One project at a time. I just did a front end swap and other than "over thinking it" it was cake.
The good thing is there are guys on this forum that will lend a hand and advice.
If you have a look your after - you'll never be satisfied until its done. You'll end up saying - I shoulda powdered the sliders when I changed the trees or something like that.
Get a roomy work space with plenty of light and space to lay things out this way your not tripping over wheels and cables.
I'm sure you have the manual already - so read threw the "removal" and "installation" sections - and take note of the tools you may need - like a inch and half socket!
And if you don't already have one - get a good jack - I'll plug J&S Jacks because it works great not because I work for them. Other guys are using the sears red, yellow and harbor freight units and are having no problems - so that's your choice. I went with J&S.
I'm sure folks will chime in and will be there to help along the way.
Go for it.
George
The good thing is there are guys on this forum that will lend a hand and advice.
If you have a look your after - you'll never be satisfied until its done. You'll end up saying - I shoulda powdered the sliders when I changed the trees or something like that.
Get a roomy work space with plenty of light and space to lay things out this way your not tripping over wheels and cables.
I'm sure you have the manual already - so read threw the "removal" and "installation" sections - and take note of the tools you may need - like a inch and half socket!
And if you don't already have one - get a good jack - I'll plug J&S Jacks because it works great not because I work for them. Other guys are using the sears red, yellow and harbor freight units and are having no problems - so that's your choice. I went with J&S.
I'm sure folks will chime in and will be there to help along the way.
Go for it.
George
Road Warrior
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,333
Likes: 3
From: Jefferson, Oregon
X2 man.
You have the manual, take your time and just lay it out as it comes a part. I always tell people that, if you lay it out properly it will go together like it came a part!
You'll REALLY be proud of yourself once it's done too.
You have the manual, take your time and just lay it out as it comes a part. I always tell people that, if you lay it out properly it will go together like it came a part!
You'll REALLY be proud of yourself once it's done too.
Thread Starter
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Road Captain
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 577
Likes: 2
From: Brampton, Ontario, Canada
That was another one of my concerns, i've got the sears jack. I was actually thinking about buying a couple of scissor jacks to support the back end of the frame and the tire, just to make sure the front end removal doesnt cause a scary shift in the weight.
Tourer
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 352
Likes: 0
From: Ventura, California
+1
You can do it! keep your manual handy, your tools organized, and like mentioned above, a place for all your parts. don't forget to take pictures here and there, and you will be fine. I swapped my front end for an inverted one, and all in all, it was not that big a deal. I finally remembered how to take my new axle out though, that was a bit of a bitch!
Tourer
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 332
Likes: 1
From: NH
I had the same concerns before i did mine and it was pretty straight forward...
things you need...
-a good lift...J/s makes a great dyna lift
-The service manual- has torx specs and some usefull info
-the parts manual- that is worth it weight in gold in my eyes...it has the part breakdown of the whole bike and was very helpful to me on my front end work
I would recommend taking pictures and mybe even doing it with a buddy. And you should take your time...dont rush
Only snag I had was setting the front fork seals...i brought them to dealer to set and they scratched one of my lowers and I had to send it out to be repowdered...set me back another week..
When you take stuff off to be powdered...look to see if you want the head of the bolts powdered also...i think so many people dont powder the bolts they stick out like sore thumbs...the heads of bolts/nuts/washers can be powdered.
Jay
things you need...
-a good lift...J/s makes a great dyna lift
-The service manual- has torx specs and some usefull info
-the parts manual- that is worth it weight in gold in my eyes...it has the part breakdown of the whole bike and was very helpful to me on my front end work
I would recommend taking pictures and mybe even doing it with a buddy. And you should take your time...dont rush
Only snag I had was setting the front fork seals...i brought them to dealer to set and they scratched one of my lowers and I had to send it out to be repowdered...set me back another week..
When you take stuff off to be powdered...look to see if you want the head of the bolts powdered also...i think so many people dont powder the bolts they stick out like sore thumbs...the heads of bolts/nuts/washers can be powdered.
Jay
Thread Starter
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Road Captain
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 577
Likes: 2
From: Brampton, Ontario, Canada
really don't want this to turn into a Jack thread, but the JS is totally out of the budget. 339US plus 100US shipping to Canada, then probably another 100-130 or so in duties/taxes (and they wont ship as gift).
Can this be done with a sears lift and a couple scissor lifts to support the rear? Also, the setting of the seals is something I was concerned about, and I wanted to avoid my stealer. Is it really that difficult to do?
Can this be done with a sears lift and a couple scissor lifts to support the rear? Also, the setting of the seals is something I was concerned about, and I wanted to avoid my stealer. Is it really that difficult to do?
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Tourer
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 332
Likes: 1
From: NH
first time i had my bike up was with a sears lift and the dyna lift adaptors...i also had a scissor lift under the swing arm. I was nervous every minute it was off the ground...not super sturdy but would work if needed....make sure to use tie downs and check them often, they loosen....the js lift is insanely sturdy, they have very impressive video on their site on how sturdy.
To set the seal you need a 49mm seal tool...the tool is over $100...and the dealer only charged me $25 to set both seals...i went around my town to a few local bike shops and they did not have a 49mm seal tool...i sucked it up and paid the $25...and made them pay to repowderder the lower they scratched....
Jay
To set the seal you need a 49mm seal tool...the tool is over $100...and the dealer only charged me $25 to set both seals...i went around my town to a few local bike shops and they did not have a 49mm seal tool...i sucked it up and paid the $25...and made them pay to repowderder the lower they scratched....
Jay
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Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 6,642
Likes: 48
From: Ogden, UT
Something to consider since it may be on the jack for a while...
I screwed some long eyebolts into the sole plates in my garage and then ran ratchet type straps to the bike so there was no way it could fall off the jack.
I screwed some long eyebolts into the sole plates in my garage and then ran ratchet type straps to the bike so there was no way it could fall off the jack.