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Tips for turn signal relocations kit

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Old Feb 23, 2010 | 03:58 AM
  #1  
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Post Tips for turn signal relocations kit

A new friend wrote me asking lots of questions about the turn signal relocation kit yesterday and since I know a lot o guys out there are doing this mod, I thought it might be a good idea to post the "how to" I sent him. I'm just trying to share the knowledge and issues that I encountered on this mod.... It was (for lack of more fitting words) a HUGE pain in the *** when I cut the wires according to the "installation guide". If anyone can add pics, please help out. I want to really nail this post and have it be the solid guide for anyone that has questions.

Email from me:
Yup I have lots of experience with the turn signal wiring. I have installed them, two or three times. It's a pretty simple concept, but the directions they give you are pretty vague and caused me lots of headaches. Unfortunately there is no easy way to install the kit other than soldering and wrapping.


Here is what I recommend. Remove the license plate for a better view. Behind the brake light there is a space where the wiring harness is split to run to the turn signals, this is protected by a plastic clip. Push the tab and release the clip (pops right out). Then release the metal clamps that are welded to the inside of the fender. If you can't see them just follow the wires, they bend and the wire slips out.

Feed out the extra wire (maybe 8" or so) through the disconnected turn signal. Disconnect the wires, via the plastic clamps that were behind the brake light. Since the turn signals are "dangling" you should be able to actually pull the wires through the fender/frame holes until the connector is at the fender wall. BTW label one of the clips right after you disconnect it, so you know which wire goes to which signal when you reattach it.

The plastic clips won't fit through the holes in the fender/frame (which is why you have to cut them). Now this is the point of no return. Cut the wires about half way between the turn signal and the clip. Where you cut the wires is crucial to how easy it will be to solder them I think halfway was decent but if anything cut more toward the plastic connector than the signal itself. This should leave ample working room (which you really need).

Now you are going to have to install the new mounting brackets (I don't know what else to call them). They are the long brackets on the inside of the fender that the bolts thread into and hold everything together. So ensure all the parts are in the correct order for the final mount before you solder. If you are new to soldering, youtube intro videos as well as tips, this'll help a lot. (Little tip, the thinner the solder the faster it'll heat up and therefore easier to use) Radioshack has everything you need.

Ensure the parts are in the correct order (I messed up once and had to re-solder a whole side) and the plastic clip is on the inside of the fender. Now you might want some help supporting everything while you solder. Since the plastic clip doesn't fit through the hole, it can just hang while you work. Now solder the wires and heat shrink them as applicable) when you are done wrap all 3 wired in electrical tape. Now tighten the bolts around the turn signal, then attach the turn signal to the fender. DON'T plug them into the harness until after this step. tighten everything up and then plug them into the correct harness. and replace the wires in the fender well "clamps" and replace the connectors inside that space behind the brake light. Reinstall plastic clip. Tada!! All done!!!

Ensure they are working correctly, if you are blowing fuses, then you have a bad connection that is grounding, if one of the lights isn't doing what it is supposed to then check your soldering connections again. Weak signals will cause issues, so keep in mind when you are soldering that the more solder the wires "Soak" the stronger the connection will be.

I hope this is what you were looking for. This isn't the easiest mod to your bike, but it's not that toughest. If I missed a step or you need more info, please let me know. I wish I had pics to go along with this, but I don't. If you wanted to take some.... I am going to post this for others, because this is a really common modification and I wish someone had given me some pointers like this before I started. Good Luck and ride safe!!!


Chris

If anyone has any questions, hit me up. I'll hopefully reply the day you send the PM.

Cheers!! Keep the rubber side down and the chrome side up!!!
 
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Old Feb 23, 2010 | 07:16 AM
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Good job! HD makes there directions so complicated, I cut and soldered my wires under the fender. I used liquid electrical tape over the solder and then wrapped with tape. But shrink tube would do the same thing. I know butt connectors are fast but I don't like them when they are likely to be exposed to moisture.
 
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Old Feb 24, 2010 | 12:29 AM
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Sibur, those butt connectors are risky. That V-twin rumble would sever any lose connection I was shocked that HD included them in the kit. Oh well...
 
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Old Feb 24, 2010 | 05:33 AM
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Great post thanks for the Info. Well needed i just put a kit from alloy art on my wish list sounds like the same install. also in the Nov 09 issue of American Cycle has an story on installing them.
 
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Old Feb 28, 2010 | 10:10 AM
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Cool, I am still trying to get some to put some pics of the actual installation to help people even more...
 

Last edited by cbrittingham; Feb 28, 2010 at 10:10 AM. Reason: Typo
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Old Feb 28, 2010 | 10:16 AM
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Originally Posted by cbrittingham
The plastic clips won't fit through the holes in the fender/frame (which is why you have to cut them).
The connectors can actually be disassembled (the wires don't need to be cut). There are "one-way" retaining tabs inside the connectors that can be depressed with a small screwdriver or awl (very small) and the individual wires with crimped on metal ends extracted from the plastic connector.
 
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Old Feb 28, 2010 | 10:33 AM
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Originally Posted by fhansen
The connectors can actually be disassembled (the wires don't need to be cut). There are "one-way" retaining tabs inside the connectors that can be depressed with a small screwdriver or awl (very small) and the individual wires with crimped on metal ends extracted from the plastic connector.
TRUE! this was posted 3 or 4 days ago on another thread. You go in from the female end with an optometrist - type flat screw driver. it's just a small catch, and I would never have know were it not for that post so thank-you whoever that was!
 
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Old Feb 28, 2010 | 10:50 AM
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What if you used the butt connectors and then sealed them with shrink tube. Wouldn't that be a protectant against moisture and also help to strengthen the joint?
 
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Old Feb 28, 2010 | 01:09 PM
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Originally Posted by maddghost
TRUE! this was posted 3 or 4 days ago on another thread. You go in from the female end with an optometrist - type flat screw driver. it's just a small catch, and I would never have know were it not for that post so thank-you whoever that was!
Originally Posted by fhansen
The connectors can actually be disassembled (the wires don't need to be cut). There are "one-way" retaining tabs inside the connectors that can be depressed with a small screwdriver or awl (very small) and the individual wires with crimped on metal ends extracted from the plastic connector.

So true..... it's over here: How do you disassemble this connector?

Just to remind you:
check out the *HOW TO * under fifty bux* (index links)

and *Search Topics * How To * Hints* (index link1 and index link 2)

for tons of interesting info and links to all kinds of threads.......

FXD2003Rider
 
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Old Feb 28, 2010 | 02:43 PM
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Actually, the butt splices that the kit comes with will shrink to a water tight connection if you add heat to them..
 
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