Rake change
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Tourer
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 312
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Rake change
ThinKing about changing the rank on my fatbob...
It is a 29 and thinking going to a 34...i know i will
lose some handling , it will change the look...am i
right or the only thing i need to change is my triple
tree...if someone knows.i like the rank on this fatbob..
Thanks for your time...
It is a 29 and thinking going to a 34...i know i will
lose some handling , it will change the look...am i
right or the only thing i need to change is my triple
tree...if someone knows.i like the rank on this fatbob..
Thanks for your time...
Last edited by FATBOB.; Jun 1, 2010 at 08:06 PM.
Tourer
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 349
Likes: 1
From: Pittsburgh
Do some more research before you pick up trees. There's a little geometry involved to make sure you have the right tube length/angle etc. I don't really know the ins and outs, but I know there are some... ins and outs.
Road Warrior
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,998
Likes: 14
From: Central Ohio
ThinKing about changing the rank on my fatbob...
It is a 29 and thinking going to a 34...i know i will
lose some handling , it will change the look...am i
right or the only thing i need to change is my triple
tree...if someone knows.i like the rank on this fatbob..
Thanks for your time...
Is 'the way it looks' really worth losing the handling on a Fat Bob?
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 6,642
Likes: 48
From: Ogden, UT
If setup properly that small of a change should not make a big difference to the average rider. If you are a twisty monster then maybe not a great idea. Basically you are talking about putting a Wide Glide front end on her, and I know my WG handles twisties just fine.
Not sure of the tube length on the FB, but you may want to extend a couple inches.
Not sure of the tube length on the FB, but you may want to extend a couple inches.
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2007
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According to my indy, 5 degrees is the max you should go on a dyna and you WILL change the handling on the bike and cause the front wheel to want to lay over easier especially at slower speeds. It's doable, however. Just go out and get used to it before you start riding it like you always did before. He recommended no more than a 3 degree increase to get the least amount of handling difference and still get a different look. I think if I were going 5 degrees, I'd go ahead and swap the whole front end out for a WG setup, though.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 2,729
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From: Republic of Texas
According to my indy, 5 degrees is the max you should go on a dyna and you WILL change the handling on the bike and cause the front wheel to want to lay over easier especially at slower speeds. It's doable, however. Just go out and get used to it before you start riding it like you always did before. He recommended no more than a 3 degree increase to get the least amount of handling difference and still get a different look. I think if I were going 5 degrees, I'd go ahead and swap the whole front end out for a WG setup, though.
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2007
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I would think it would better assure the right geometry with the right length tubes, etc. But, I'll take back what I said. I wouldn't do the 5 degrees period. I'd leave it alone or get some 3 degree trees and be done with it. I think the FB's unique front end looks good as it is.
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Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2009
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From: Republic of Texas
If I owned a FatBob and wanted to go to 34 degrees I would buy an aftermarket set of 5 degree trees because the stock WideGlide trees only have about 2 degrees built into them. I would then purchase WideGlide tubes because they are longer than other FXD models and use my stock lowers so that I could still have my dual front brakes. But like 2007fxdc said I would not go 5 degrees simply for safety purposes. I installed 3 degree aftermarket WideGlide trees on my bike and love the look and can't tell any difference in handling.
Last edited by ghostrider69; Jun 3, 2010 at 01:59 PM.
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Elite HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2007
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Good point Ghost, I didn't think about the brakes. Yeh, you'd want to keep your lowers or figure out how to fab the new ones to fit the brakes. And, would have fender issues to deal with as well? Still, might be cheaper to get a good deal on a whole WG front end and just use the parts needed. All that said, I still wouldn't do more than 3 degrees based on the conversation with my indy.
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2007
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From: Seattle, WA
Of course your stock front end or even wide glide won't look like that Hawg Halter front end with the upper fork tube covers that extend above the triple trees .... that's probably $1,800 - $2,500 easily ... looks great though (especially with the $600 rear fender) ....
R/
'Chop
