Hi folks,
I have an urgent problem I need some assistance with.

I have in my workshop a 1999 Dyna Superglide that has had quite a lot of work done on it as follows:
S&S super sidewinder 116 ci hot setup kit with electric compression releases and crane super G carb
Crane Fireball regulator
Crane HI4-TC ignition system
New LED turnsignals all round (with load resitors)
New Ultima inverted 58mm front end
Wide glide tins

The problem is this.
Last week the engine ran fine but having left the bike for a week whilst working on another bike, I went to start it yesterday and it really struggled to start.

It ran for less than a minute then stopped. I pulled the plugs and they were sooted up, so I cleaned them up and tried again.
It didn't even manage to start this time but when the plugs were pulled they were again covered in soot.

I pulled the plugs and connected them to the plug leads, earthed them against the cylinders and tested for spark. The spark was intermittent and very weak.

I swapped out the coil for one I know to be fine and tried again, same result.

I checked all battery terminals and connections and nothing seems to be out of place and connected correctly.

I changed the plugs for a new set and still get the sooting and poor spark.

I have exhausted everything I know to try and have drawn a complete blank so can anyone help please?

This is getting desperate as I need to get the bike back to it's owner asap.

Thanks in advance for any help you can offer

Guns

 

Sorry, I forgot to add that I have checked the fuel supply, checked the carb, jets etc and all is fine on that side of things.

I have also checked the speed sensor in the transmission for poor connections as I am getting a diagnostic code of D02 when the trip switch is depressed upon turning the ignition on.

I have checked all battery terminals, all connectors and checked for trapped of pinched wires and nothing appears to be out of place.

The battery is a brand new 350 cold cranking amp unit which was filled and charged according to manufacturer specs.

So, I am at a loss as to why I am not getting sufficient spark to actually fire the engine.

PLEASE HELP

 

http://cranecams.com/pdf/90003150.pdf

DIAGNOSTICS

The HI-4TC does not support diagnostics via the
OE data link. Scan tools intended for use with the OE module
cannot be used with the HI-4TC.
The HI-4TC provides diagnostics by means of the
check engine LED on the instrument cluster. When the ignition
switch is turned on, the LED illuminates. The LED will
remain illuminated until the engine is started. If the HI-4TC

diagnostic routines detect a fault, the LED will blink a num

ber of times followed by a 2 second pause. The number of
blinks indicates the fault condition.

1 Blink: Crankshaft position sensor (CKP) signal
lost.

This indicates failure of the CKP sensor or a
faulty connection in the wire harness to the sensor.

2 Blinks: Camshaft position sensor (CMP) signal
lost.

This indicates failure of the CMP sensor or a
faulty connection in the wire harness to the sensor.

3 Blinks: Manifold pressure sensor (MAP) signal
out of range.

This indicates failure of the MAP sensor
or a faulty connection in the wire harness to the
sensor. A vacuum leak or loose sensor will also cause
this fault.

4 Blinks: Low battery voltage.

This condition may
be caused by an alternator, regulator, or battery failure
or an excessive electrical load (too many lights or
accessories). If this fault occurs immediately after
cranking, the battery may be discharged.

5 Blinks: High battery voltage.

This condition may
be caused by a regulator or battery failure or loose
connections in the wiring harness to the battery.

6 Blinks: Bank sensor tipped.

The bank sensor is
indicating a ‘tipped over” condition. This may be
caused by a loose bank sensor or bank sensor failure.

7 Blinks: EEPROM checksum failure.

Data stored
in EEPROM has been corrupted. This condition may
be caused by a failure within the HI-4TC or improper

programming via the data link.

G:
If it was me (thankfully it's not) I'd be a little suspicious of the ignition system. Can't hurt to look into it.

Hope this helps.

 

That info is great, Thank you.

I spent the day taking everything apart, cleaning and checking all connections then putting it all back together.

When I switched the ignition back on after reassembly I noticed that the neutral light didn't stay on which I thought odd. I checked the neutral sensor and one of the wires had worked its way off the connector but still within the sheath.

Once reconnected properly and after a full battery recharge, ignition on, twist the throttle to get some gas into the engine and pressed the starter.

Failed to start first time but tried and coughed.
Gave it a sec to recover and tried again and bang running like a train!

Thanks again for the info mate, really appreciated

Guns