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FXDB to 2010 FXDWG Dash Panel Upgrade

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Old Jul 30, 2010 | 12:37 PM
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Question FXDB to 2010 FXDWG Dash Panel Upgrade

I'm wanting to upgrade my Street Bob gas tank dash panel from the stock 2010 FXDB (speedo only) to the one used by the 2010 FXDWG (speedo and ignition switch). Object is to have the ignition switch up on the dash instead of hanging off the fork neck.

I've checked prices at my local H-D, and they seem kinda high... $330 (!) for the tank gauge panel (black or chrome, same price), and $130 for the ignition switch.

Are there other alternative sources or years that will serve as donor bikes for the panel? I've been looking at the classifieds for someone selling a used '10WG dash, but so far no luck.

When I buy the ignition switch, can I rekey the new lock to my current key, or do I have to order it 'matched'?

Thanks!
Kent
 
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Old Jul 30, 2010 | 12:50 PM
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Originally Posted by KentFXD
I'm wanting to upgrade my Street Bob gas tank dash panel from the stock 2010 FXDB (speedo only) to the one used by the 2010 FXDWG (speedo and ignition switch). Object is to have the ignition switch up on the dash instead of hanging off the fork neck.

I've checked prices at my local H-D, and they seem kinda high... $330 (!) for the tank gauge panel (black or chrome, same price), and $130 for the ignition switch.

Are there other alternative sources or years that will serve as donor bikes for the panel? I've been looking at the classifieds for someone selling a used '10WG dash, but so far no luck.

When I buy the ignition switch, can I rekey the new lock to my current key, or do I have to order it 'matched'?

Thanks!
Kent
You can order the dash online and save 20% but other than just cutting a hole in your dash for the switch no other options.

You can get alot cheaper switches if dont care if the key matches. I paid $100 for mine and had it match but after having it I am not sure why I cared since I never lock the forks anyway.
 
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Old Jul 30, 2010 | 01:21 PM
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Originally Posted by bberck
You can order the dash online and save 20% but other than just cutting a hole in your dash for the switch no other options.

You can get alot cheaper switches if dont care if the key matches. I paid $100 for mine and had it match but after having it I am not sure why I cared since I never lock the forks anyway.
I've tried checking online for the parts, but it seems like many online catalogs only go up to 2008 or 2009. Is there a site which has the 2010 models included in their catalogs?

-Kent
 
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Old Jul 30, 2010 | 01:44 PM
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THIS IS ALL YOU WILL NEED ( FROM 2010 WIDE GLIDE PARTS BOOK )

1) Console;
Chrome is 61712-08
Black is 61732-10

2)Speedo Gasket (different than Street Bob gasket)
70706-08

3)Ignition Switch
71313-96A

4)Switch bracket
71766-08

5)Self tapping screws (4)
2501A

6)Ignition switch label
71262-05

7)Fork lock decal (minus ignition/accessory icons)
14130-06B


http://www.zanottimotor.com/


Much Cheaper than most H.D. dealers ....for example the dash is $199.00 for Chrome or Black , go to the online /parts section and enter in the parts and get total including shipping , i think mine came to $332.00 total with the shipping .... THE BEST MOD I EVER DID !!!!
 

Last edited by Wonkaboy; Jul 30, 2010 at 01:57 PM.
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Old Jul 30, 2010 | 02:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Wonkaboy
THIS IS ALL YOU WILL NEED ( FROM 2010 WIDE GLIDE PARTS BOOK )

1) Console;
Chrome is 61712-08
Black is 61732-10

2)Speedo Gasket (different than Street Bob gasket)
70706-08

3)Ignition Switch
71313-96A

4)Switch bracket
71766-08

5)Self tapping screws (4)
2501A

6)Ignition switch label
71262-05

7)Fork lock decal (minus ignition/accessory icons)
14130-06B


http://www.zanottimotor.com/


Much Cheaper than most H.D. dealers ....for example the dash is $199.00 for Chrome or Black , go to the online /parts section and enter in the parts and get total including shipping , i think mine came to $332.00 total with the shipping .... THE BEST MOD I EVER DID !!!!
PERFECT! Thank you so much -- thats GREAT info!

Did you re-key the new ignition switch to match your existing?

Cheers,
Kent
 

Last edited by KentFXD; Jul 30, 2010 at 02:19 PM.
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Old Jul 30, 2010 | 02:38 PM
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Default Ignition

I modded mine a couple of years ago but the new ignition keyed to my fork lock was $65.00 from Zanotti Motors.
 
Attached Thumbnails FXDB to 2010 FXDWG Dash Panel Upgrade-s.e.ii-dash-and-tach.jpg  
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Old Jul 30, 2010 | 03:32 PM
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Originally Posted by KentFXD
PERFECT! Thank you so much -- thats GREAT info!

Did you re-key the new ignition switch to match your existing?

Cheers,
Kent
You have to tell them your key number after you order ( email them ) which is located on a little tag with your keys or pull back the plastic coating on your key and you will see the code , they don't charge you , you will have 4 keys all the same !!!
 
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Old Jul 30, 2010 | 06:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Wonkaboy
You have to tell them your key number after you order ( email them ) which is located on a little tag with your keys or pull back the plastic coating on your key and you will see the code , they don't charge you , you will have 4 keys all the same !!!
Sounds good... I will definitely be doing this.

One more question (for now!): Did the existing wiring for the fork-located lock reach and plug into the new lock location on the tank, or will I be doing some extending and reconfiguring?

-Kent
 
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Old Jul 30, 2010 | 07:06 PM
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Originally Posted by dyna rider
I modded mine a couple of years ago but the new ignition keyed to my fork lock was $65.00 from Zanotti Motors.
Thanks for the info and the pic... I've got a gloss black StreetBob, and I've been trying to decide between going chrome or black on the dash. Helps to see pics of both so I appreciate that you posted your pic.

-Kent
 
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Old Jul 30, 2010 | 09:08 PM
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Default Ignition

You will have to lengthen your wiring to reach the new switch location. I used some splices we used to call environmental splices. They have a solder sleeve mounted in a piece of heat shrink. You just strip about 1/4" of the wires and stick them in the sleeve and use a heat gun. At a preset temp the solder will melt and the heat shrink will tighten around the splice. I also put another piece of shrink on top of that. Water can't get in.
 
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