'05 fxdxi 100/100 help
Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 310
Likes: 1
From: Dayton, OH
'05 fxdxi 100/100 help
Ok guys, dont burn be down too much for this, but i need some help on my winter build.
Ive got an '05 fxdxi that Ive had for about 2 years now, originally i threw some drag pipes on it and a set of narrow bottom 16" apes. Its now time for somethign different. What follows is a list (subject to change) of different parts im lookin at. Please any help/input/advice/opinions will be greatly appreciated.
So far i have...
10" tall 28" wide t-bars sittin on 1.5" riser extensions with solid moutn bushings.
Arlen ness fairing.
All stainless lines.
Integrted turn signal mirrors in place of front bullet signals.
Low rider tank with textured dash with tach/speedo mounted on the tank.
Touring Air shocks in the rear.
Parts on the list for this winter...
Big Boys street heads and 95" cylinder bore
Screamin Eagle HC pistons # 22868-00A
Woods TW6-HG cams with +4 degree
Perfect fit push rods
Zippers 50mm TB and matching intake with MaxFlow a/c.
R+B racing LSR 2:1 "c" pipe OR D+D fatcat with big bore baffle.
S.E clutch spring
S.E.R.T
Like i said, its a list thats subject to change, so let me know where you guys would like to see it changed and why. My end goal is a badass bike with stump pulling TQ and good throttle all the way up. But for braggin rights with my buddies id like to see that magical 100/100 mark which from what im told shouldnt be an issue.
Thanks in advance for the help guys.
Pics commin soon.
Ive got an '05 fxdxi that Ive had for about 2 years now, originally i threw some drag pipes on it and a set of narrow bottom 16" apes. Its now time for somethign different. What follows is a list (subject to change) of different parts im lookin at. Please any help/input/advice/opinions will be greatly appreciated.
So far i have...
10" tall 28" wide t-bars sittin on 1.5" riser extensions with solid moutn bushings.
Arlen ness fairing.
All stainless lines.
Integrted turn signal mirrors in place of front bullet signals.
Low rider tank with textured dash with tach/speedo mounted on the tank.
Touring Air shocks in the rear.
Parts on the list for this winter...
Big Boys street heads and 95" cylinder bore
Screamin Eagle HC pistons # 22868-00A
Woods TW6-HG cams with +4 degree
Perfect fit push rods
Zippers 50mm TB and matching intake with MaxFlow a/c.
R+B racing LSR 2:1 "c" pipe OR D+D fatcat with big bore baffle.
S.E clutch spring
S.E.R.T
Like i said, its a list thats subject to change, so let me know where you guys would like to see it changed and why. My end goal is a badass bike with stump pulling TQ and good throttle all the way up. But for braggin rights with my buddies id like to see that magical 100/100 mark which from what im told shouldnt be an issue.
Thanks in advance for the help guys.
Pics commin soon.
Cruiser
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 138
Likes: 2
From: Dayton, Ohio
Who's doing the work? I have the same bike with most of what you want except I have SE255 cams and SE big heads. I have the RB pipe and I'm putting down those #'s on a dyno. I'm local so if you have any questions I could hook you up.
Road Warrior
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,899
Likes: 8
From: Aurora, IL
Here is a dyno sheet of my 95" build. Much lower compression (run any 90-93 octane) It had great milage, never pinged, very reliable.
It was a 9.8:1 compression 95"
22951-99A Flat top pistons Stock cylinders bored
Heads ported and milled to 81cc
Andrews 37 gear drive cams
42mm mikuni
Cycle shack exhaust
Do you want a reliable touring 95" that makes right around 100/100 or a hot rod 95" that makes just over 100/100 and may ping in really hot weather, needs good fuel, and may suffer in the MPG department.
And as mentioned, I would ditch the +4. With headwork and compression bump, its not needed.
Also, keep in mind that dyno numbers are nothing more than a baseline to compare future modifications. I have taken my bike (both builds) to different dyno's on Dyno days and some have made me dissapointed, some have made me very happy. IMO 5-10% +/- is typical on dyno's depending on how they configure the results....Thats up to 10hp!!
It was a 9.8:1 compression 95"
22951-99A Flat top pistons Stock cylinders bored
Heads ported and milled to 81cc
Andrews 37 gear drive cams
42mm mikuni
Cycle shack exhaust
Do you want a reliable touring 95" that makes right around 100/100 or a hot rod 95" that makes just over 100/100 and may ping in really hot weather, needs good fuel, and may suffer in the MPG department.
And as mentioned, I would ditch the +4. With headwork and compression bump, its not needed.
Also, keep in mind that dyno numbers are nothing more than a baseline to compare future modifications. I have taken my bike (both builds) to different dyno's on Dyno days and some have made me dissapointed, some have made me very happy. IMO 5-10% +/- is typical on dyno's depending on how they configure the results....Thats up to 10hp!!
Thread Starter
|
Tourer
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 310
Likes: 1
From: Dayton, OH
Im actually having a buddy do the work, used to run service at a local HD shop until they had to cut back. How local are you? I would love any and all input from as many sourses as i can get.
Also how do you like the RB pipe? I know they are very pricey and Ive read their customer service is less than desireable.
Thread Starter
|
Tourer
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 310
Likes: 1
From: Dayton, OH
Here is a dyno sheet of my 95" build. Much lower compression (run any 90-93 octane) It had great milage, never pinged, very reliable.
It was a 9.8:1 compression 95"
22951-99A Flat top pistons Stock cylinders bored
Heads ported and milled to 81cc
Andrews 37 gear drive cams
42mm mikuni
Cycle shack exhaust
Do you want a reliable touring 95" that makes right around 100/100 or a hot rod 95" that makes just over 100/100 and may ping in really hot weather, needs good fuel, and may suffer in the MPG department.
And as mentioned, I would ditch the +4. With headwork and compression bump, its not needed.
Also, keep in mind that dyno numbers are nothing more than a baseline to compare future modifications. I have taken my bike (both builds) to different dyno's on Dyno days and some have made me dissapointed, some have made me very happy. IMO 5-10% +/- is typical on dyno's depending on how they configure the results....Thats up to 10hp!!
It was a 9.8:1 compression 95"
22951-99A Flat top pistons Stock cylinders bored
Heads ported and milled to 81cc
Andrews 37 gear drive cams
42mm mikuni
Cycle shack exhaust
Do you want a reliable touring 95" that makes right around 100/100 or a hot rod 95" that makes just over 100/100 and may ping in really hot weather, needs good fuel, and may suffer in the MPG department.
And as mentioned, I would ditch the +4. With headwork and compression bump, its not needed.
Also, keep in mind that dyno numbers are nothing more than a baseline to compare future modifications. I have taken my bike (both builds) to different dyno's on Dyno days and some have made me dissapointed, some have made me very happy. IMO 5-10% +/- is typical on dyno's depending on how they configure the results....Thats up to 10hp!!
...And Red those numbers youre pulling down are exactly what i want. LOOK AT THAT TQ CURVE, thats sweet! Honestly, and we all know its true, the numbers are just for braggin rights, i still plan on taking multiple 500-800mi one way trips over the spring and summer, so i want the numbers, but whats really important is stump pulling TQ and she has to be rock solid reliable. Im gonna do a new oil pump and cam plate from fueling co. and an oil cooler but havent picked one out yet so that should help the hot weather pings. I already put high test gas in her but i dont want to have to run turbo blue or anything LOL. So i guess what im tryin to say is i want a reliable right at 100/100 with as much TQ as pussible but i cant give up reliability.
Last edited by Dyna_in_the_works; Nov 17, 2010 at 01:52 AM.
Road Warrior
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,899
Likes: 8
From: Aurora, IL
I should mention that the dip in my torque curve was becasue I have a carb. An EFI bike should have a flatter torque curve. My new build has less of a dip, but it has a 2-1 pipe which I was told also helps get rid of the dip.
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Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 310
Likes: 1
From: Dayton, OH
I honestly have been flipping through pages and pages of dyno sheets looking at the curves, yours looks pretty damn good, and if you say its gotten better then im impressed. Mine is fuel injected and i will deffinatly be runing either the fat cat or the RB LSR 2 into 1 so thats encouraging to hear.
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ha ha ha i have his old motor in my bike! i am just shy of the 100/100 mark but i was nto willing to get rid of my pipes a 2-1 would have put me there... motor build was the best move i have done...