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Just changed the front line on my WG from OEM to braided stainless. First time ever for me bleeding brakes. The process was slow but I was able to get the proper pressure. Make sure you are adding fluid to the reservoir so as to prevent any air getting into the line. I let gravity take the majority of the fluid through the line and then siphoned from the caliper end until the new fluid was coming out. Then did the: Squeeze Open Close Release method mentioned previously.
you need to bench bleed the system man, run your brake hose into your resivor and pump till you get fluid out of the hose, so it is basicly pumping fluid back into itself... this is a bench bleed...
then hook it up to the caliper and bleed the rest of the way... are you useing a mighty vac or anything? i used speed bleeders as well...
let me know if you have any questions i fight with brakes alot
+1. And so will you. Otherwise, if you're going to do it the old school way without a gizmo form the parts store, it really helps to have an assistant. One of you works the brake lever, the other opens/closes the bleed bolt. Trying to do both by yourself will make you crazy.
Last edited by Sharknose; Jan 22, 2011 at 11:03 AM.
I had to go to auto zone and buy the vacumn thingy majiggy!!! It worked but dan it still took several hours. But it worked and I was on the road today!!!!
I bought the speedbleeders and didn't do a whole lot for me. They are still on the bike for another try down the road, but I bought a bleeder pump system from Harbor Freight for $20, and it took me literally 10 mins to bleed.
If you want to ensure that all bubbles are out of the system, tie your brake handle back with a bunjee cord overnight. When you release in the morning, not uncommon to get another 1/4 pull of rock solid tightness in the handle.
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