Remove Front Wheel Without Removing Caliper?
Tourer
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 446
Likes: 0
From: Texas
There are 2 ways to loosen those bolts, one is to heat them up with a small torch , it will melt the locktight and come loose. The second way is to put more red locktight on the old to soften it up & the bolt will break loose. Good Luck
ok to remove those bolts... you have 2 things... first always when pulling stuff off that is lock tited... use a punch inthe center of the bolt and give it a smack! this will help to break it loose and they will come right out... if that does not work use a heat gun to heat up the bolt to melt the lock tite and it will spin right out as well... both ways work bud
Banned
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,494
Likes: 5
Torch on the caliper? Maybe if you have a micro torch and if can keep the flame off the fork and caliper to keep from burning off the paint and I don't see how red loctite is going to wick up to the threads and melt the old loctite, not to mention we don't know if they did use loctite.
I would not recommend anti-seize on the caliper bolts, clean, dry and torqued to spec is sufficient. 28-38 ft lbs.
I would highly recommend you remove and replace these fasteners since you have no way of knowing if you have stressed them or reduced the clamping force trying to remove them.
In retrospect, if you experience a bolt that will not come loose stop and think about how to keep from damaging the the bolt. Like Joe mentions, center punch in the middle of the fastener or an impact driver alone or in conjunction with the center punch method. Impact drivers are inexpensive and can break a fasteners loose quickly.
CB
I would not recommend anti-seize on the caliper bolts, clean, dry and torqued to spec is sufficient. 28-38 ft lbs.
I would highly recommend you remove and replace these fasteners since you have no way of knowing if you have stressed them or reduced the clamping force trying to remove them.
In retrospect, if you experience a bolt that will not come loose stop and think about how to keep from damaging the the bolt. Like Joe mentions, center punch in the middle of the fastener or an impact driver alone or in conjunction with the center punch method. Impact drivers are inexpensive and can break a fasteners loose quickly.
CB
Last edited by NoLongerAmember; Jan 29, 2011 at 05:12 PM.
Thread Starter
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Road Master
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,245
Likes: 0
From:
OK...I'm about to lose my **** right about now. After a couple of trips to Home Depot/Sears and $$ later, I managed to get the caliper bolts off after using an impact and a stronger box wrench (thanks for the tip). I even bought a Bolt Out just in case.
Got all set to remove the axle only to find the #$%&!@ shop that jacked up the caliper bolts also jacked the slider cap screws (guess I should've seen that one coming). They're completely stripped on the inside. Can't continue with the process now.
Done with it for now. I'll figure out how to deal with those bolts after Superbowl.
You know...the tires were the only thing I've taken the bike to a shop for (aside for one small injector wire short). And look what happens!!!
DIY!!!!
So pissed right now. :-(
Got all set to remove the axle only to find the #$%&!@ shop that jacked up the caliper bolts also jacked the slider cap screws (guess I should've seen that one coming). They're completely stripped on the inside. Can't continue with the process now.
Done with it for now. I'll figure out how to deal with those bolts after Superbowl.
You know...the tires were the only thing I've taken the bike to a shop for (aside for one small injector wire short). And look what happens!!!
DIY!!!!
So pissed right now. :-(
Last edited by Whiffleboy; Jan 29, 2011 at 06:13 PM.
Road Warrior
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,630
Likes: 17
From: Central FL
Well I have to tell you that those 2 little allen head bolts on the right fork cap are made from some pretty soft metal. Mine didn't strip but you could feel them about to. I replaced mine with some good quality allen bolts that where 6mm instead of 5mm. The bolt size if I remember was 8mm x 1.25mm. Length was 30 or 35 mm. I foung mine at Lowe's.
Tourer
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 446
Likes: 0
From: Texas
Torch on the caliper? Maybe if you have a micro torch and if can keep the flame off the fork and caliper to keep from burning off the paint and I don't see how red loctite is going to wick up to the threads and melt the old loctite, not to mention we don't know if they did use loctite.
I would not recommend anti-seize on the caliper bolts, clean, dry and torqued to spec is sufficient. 28-38 ft lbs.
I would highly recommend you remove and replace these fasteners since you have no way of knowing if you have stressed them or reduced the clamping force trying to remove them.
In retrospect, if you experience a bolt that will not come loose stop and think about how to keep from damaging the the bolt. Like Joe mentions, center punch in the middle of the fastener or an impact driver alone or in conjunction with the center punch method. Impact drivers are inexpensive and can break a fasteners loose quickly.
CB
I would not recommend anti-seize on the caliper bolts, clean, dry and torqued to spec is sufficient. 28-38 ft lbs.
I would highly recommend you remove and replace these fasteners since you have no way of knowing if you have stressed them or reduced the clamping force trying to remove them.
In retrospect, if you experience a bolt that will not come loose stop and think about how to keep from damaging the the bolt. Like Joe mentions, center punch in the middle of the fastener or an impact driver alone or in conjunction with the center punch method. Impact drivers are inexpensive and can break a fasteners loose quickly.
CB
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Banned
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,494
Likes: 5
OK...I'm about to lose my **** right about now. After a couple of trips to Home Depot/Sears and $$ later, I managed to get the caliper bolts off after using an impact and a stronger box wrench (thanks for the tip). I even bought a Bolt Out just in case.
Got all set to remove the axle only to find the #$%&!@ shop that jacked up the caliper bolts also jacked the slider cap screws (guess I should've seen that one coming). They're completely stripped on the inside. Can't continue with the process now.
Done with it for now. I'll figure out how to deal with those bolts after Superbowl.
You know...the tires were the only thing I've taken the bike to a shop for (aside for one small injector wire short). And look what happens!!!
DIY!!!!
So pissed right now. :-(
Got all set to remove the axle only to find the #$%&!@ shop that jacked up the caliper bolts also jacked the slider cap screws (guess I should've seen that one coming). They're completely stripped on the inside. Can't continue with the process now.
Done with it for now. I'll figure out how to deal with those bolts after Superbowl.
You know...the tires were the only thing I've taken the bike to a shop for (aside for one small injector wire short). And look what happens!!!
DIY!!!!
So pissed right now. :-(
CB
Tourer
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 446
Likes: 0
From: Texas
I also had trouble with the the lower cap button head screws. They are SS and strip very easily, of course over tightening them does not help. I replaced them with the OE and they still want to strip even when being careful. A switch to steel, even to the same button head style, is a better option for sure.
500* and you do that how with out damage of the surrounding area or possibly the piston seals??? I don't need to try it because I don't use red loctite where it is not warranted. The OP did not say he found Red on the caliper bolts, so who knows if that was the case anyway???
CB
500* and you do that how with out damage of the surrounding area or possibly the piston seals??? I don't need to try it because I don't use red loctite where it is not warranted. The OP did not say he found Red on the caliper bolts, so who knows if that was the case anyway???
CB