Remove Front Wheel Without Removing Caliper?

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Jan 31, 2011 | 09:58 AM

#31

NoLongerAmember

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Quote:

Originally Posted by OU812

I stand by what I said, you can pick it apart and find fault in everything. It sounds like that is what you are good at. You can heat up locktite , whether it is red,green or blue. If heating it up is not possible you can put fresh locktite on old locktite and it will soften it. It does not matter if you use locktite or not, I'm just putting some facts out there that OP can use. just because you have never done it doesn't mean it doesn't work, so I'm sure you need the last word so flame on.

I did not dispute the fact heating up loctite will soften it and make it easy to remove, I said in this application it is not wise unless you don't mind damaging the surrounding area or the caliper itself. I have been working with various loctite compounds over a 30 year career in machining and automotive service and neither red or blue loctite wick, so it is more than arguable that putting a few drops on the out side of a fastener will cause it to soften the loctite, green does wick and designed to be applied after a fastener has been assembled and this could possibly work, maybe a waste of time too? My premise is that you need to use the proper thread locker for the proper application and you wont run into a situation such as this to begin with. I see time and time again many recommending red loctite for serviceable applications when Red is meant for permanent or in some cases semi permanent applications and does not seal the thread. Blue not only locks the fastener it seals the thread to keep out corrosion. Rear pulley bolts come to mind.
You are entitled to your own opinion, but you are not entitled to your own facts.
This my opinion and experience with facts from loctite.
Have a nice day

Jan 31, 2011 | 01:39 PM

#32

DR. V-TWIN

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From: Los Angeles, CA

Quote:

Originally Posted by Whiffleboy

OK...I'm about to lose my **** right about now. After a couple of trips to Home Depot/Sears and $$ later, I managed to get the caliper bolts off after using an impact and a stronger box wrench (thanks for the tip). I even bought a Bolt Out just in case.

Got all set to remove the axle only to find the #$%&!@ shop that jacked up the caliper bolts also jacked the slider cap screws (guess I should've seen that one coming). They're completely stripped on the inside. Can't continue with the process now.

Done with it for now. I'll figure out how to deal with those bolts after Superbowl.

You know...the tires were the only thing I've taken the bike to a shop for (aside for one small injector wire short). And look what happens!!!

DIY!!!!

So pissed right now. :-(

What shop did you go to?

Drew

Jan 31, 2011 | 02:53 PM

#33

Whiffleboy

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From:

Quote:

Originally Posted by DR. V-TWIN

What shop did you go to?

Drew

I went to Schwartzkopf in Marina Del Rey as opposed to Bartel's HD across the street.

For the record, I did find red loctite on the caliper bolt threads. I imagine the slider cap screws probably were too. At any rate, I emailed the shop and am giving them a chance to make good before I start Yelping and generally raising hell. I'm hoping they'll do the right thing and take out/replace these slider cap screws so I can continue finishing my maintenance without having to drill them out myself.

Feb 5, 2011 | 01:46 PM

#34

Whiffleboy

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I just thought of something...if my slider cap bolts are loctited and I have to drill the stripped heads off, how can I get the threaded part out at that point? Will an EZ-out take care of that???

BTW, it's been a week and the shop has not responded to my message regarding their carelessness. Time to Yelp.

Feb 5, 2011 | 08:07 PM

#35

stilup

Road Warrior

Joined: Dec 2010

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From: East Hartford, CT

Dam I'd be peed too.
I messed up my sporty caliper bolts and went and purchased the correct socket and was anle to hammer the existing bit on the socket and remove and replaced with stainless bolts. As far as the broken bolts inside you may have to resort to doing some drilling out and retapping.
I'm a machinnist and fix stuff all day. I would first find out exactly what thread it is and go one drill size smaller to allow for error and retap with correct tap.
You may need an extended tap to reach.
center punch the best you can then use a spot or center drill then the drill size less the tap drill size and tap it out . Use a good tapping oil.

Feb 5, 2011 | 09:06 PM

#36

Whiffleboy

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From:

Quote:

Originally Posted by stilup

This translates to me as "bring it in, let someone fix it". Way above my skill level.

Jan 8, 2020 | 06:28 PM

#37

Tom Koopmann

Intermediate

Joined: Dec 2019

Posts: 43

Likes: 8

From: Lima, Peru

In case anyone searches for the "do I need to remove the caliper to pull the wheel" question (like I did and ended up here). On a 2015 Sportster 883 Iron, the wheel comes out easily without taking off the calipers.