Shifter Pawl Adjustment - Help
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Joined: May 2009
Posts: 80
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From: Gainesville, FL
Shifter Pawl Adjustment - Help
Hi - I need to go in and adjust my shifter pawl due to false nuetrals, and hard shifting into 3rd gear. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Does anyone have a good step by step, or tips? Can this be done WITHOUT removing the primary and/or primary cover? The bike is a 2000 Dyna FXDX
I have done everything else, so this is my next step before changing out the transmission/gears. If I have to remove the primary, etc then its getting a six speed!
I have done everything else, so this is my next step before changing out the transmission/gears. If I have to remove the primary, etc then its getting a six speed!
Road Warrior
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,699
Likes: 2
From: Deltona, FL
What you need to do is a clutch adjustment. If you don't have a manual, get one.
1) Put the bike on a lift
2) Loosen the clutch cable so there is a large amount of free play at the lever
3) Take off the derby cover (not the primary cover, you may need a new derby cover gasket)
4) On the clutch hub in the center is an 11/16" jamnut around the clutch adjustment screw
5) Using an allen to hold the adjuster, loosen the jamnut
6) Turn the adjuster screw in until is just seats
7) At this point, work the clutch lever to ensure the ***** are seated in their grooves
8)Back off the clutch adjuster screw 1/2 to 1 full turn (the amount you back off determines where your friction zone will be when releasing your clutch lever, so you can customize if you wish)
9)The book (mine) says to torque the jamnut to 72-120in-lbs. Good luck getting a crows foot in there to do so. German torque (Guttentight) has always worked here for me. You will have to hold the adjustment screw with an allen while tightening.
10) Work clutch lever full throw three times, it says so in the book
11) Check clutch cable freeplay and adjust accordingly for 1/16-1/8" freeplay between cable and lever bracket.
12) Tighten up clutch cable adjuster
13) Close up derby cover with new seal, if needed, torque bolts to 84-108in-lbs.
14) Test ride
You said you'd done "everything else" but didn't specify those things, so this is the most common cause of false neutrals and hard shifting.
1) Put the bike on a lift
2) Loosen the clutch cable so there is a large amount of free play at the lever
3) Take off the derby cover (not the primary cover, you may need a new derby cover gasket)
4) On the clutch hub in the center is an 11/16" jamnut around the clutch adjustment screw
5) Using an allen to hold the adjuster, loosen the jamnut
6) Turn the adjuster screw in until is just seats
7) At this point, work the clutch lever to ensure the ***** are seated in their grooves
8)Back off the clutch adjuster screw 1/2 to 1 full turn (the amount you back off determines where your friction zone will be when releasing your clutch lever, so you can customize if you wish)
9)The book (mine) says to torque the jamnut to 72-120in-lbs. Good luck getting a crows foot in there to do so. German torque (Guttentight) has always worked here for me. You will have to hold the adjustment screw with an allen while tightening.
10) Work clutch lever full throw three times, it says so in the book
11) Check clutch cable freeplay and adjust accordingly for 1/16-1/8" freeplay between cable and lever bracket.
12) Tighten up clutch cable adjuster
13) Close up derby cover with new seal, if needed, torque bolts to 84-108in-lbs.
14) Test ride
You said you'd done "everything else" but didn't specify those things, so this is the most common cause of false neutrals and hard shifting.
Road Warrior
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,699
Likes: 2
From: Deltona, FL
Oh, once you're looking at your clutch adjustment screw, if there's only a few threads showing beyond the jamnut (3-5ish), you need a new clutch pack. Which would also explain your hard shifting problems.
How many miles are on your 2000 and have the clutch plates ever been replaced?
How many miles are on your 2000 and have the clutch plates ever been replaced?
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Joined: May 2009
Posts: 80
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From: Gainesville, FL
Oh, once you're looking at your clutch adjustment screw, if there's only a few threads showing beyond the jamnut (3-5ish), you need a new clutch pack. Which would also explain your hard shifting problems.
How many miles are on your 2000 and have the clutch plates ever been replaced?
How many miles are on your 2000 and have the clutch plates ever been replaced?
I should also note that the PO let the bike sit for about 6 months without riding it. On the first ride, finding the gears were impossible! However, it has significantly improved - but still there once in a while. Nuetral is becoming easier to find, but still difficult when downshifting into it. From 1st to nuetral is smooth. I plan to take the top cover off, inspect the internals, re-adjust the clutch with alittle more "play" in the screw, lube up the shifter shaft/pawl, and adjust the pawl. I think the fact that it sat for so long is the main culprit - just needs to have some fresh miles put on it.
Tourer
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 467
Likes: 1
I have a 99 FXDX and have to adjust the shifter pawl every couple of years. It definately helps with the misshifts. really fairly simple to do. Put it in third gear. you want the shifter to go up and down with the same feel. Don't go as far as to change gears though. It'll feel centered when right. lossen the locknut and make small adjustments. The main problem is tightning the locknut without screwing up the setting. Just take your time. You don't have to pull the cover. It's on the outside right where the shifter shaft goes into the tranny.
if you have done all that I would suggest maybe you need another sort of bike as thats prety much where harley is at with its shifting right now, clunk clunk clunk,
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Road Warrior
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,699
Likes: 2
From: Deltona, FL
Well, given all you've done I'd say you're facing the best case scenario right now. The five speeds were always finicky shifters with false neutrals and hard shifting and while it could be minimized it never really went away.
I'd say put 500 miles on the tranny, change the fluid and adjust the clutch again and see if it improves. Chances are it will a little.
I'd say put 500 miles on the tranny, change the fluid and adjust the clutch again and see if it improves. Chances are it will a little.
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