Need Help ASAP!! --- Shifting Problems
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Road Captain
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 544
Likes: 1
From: Pensacola, Florida
Need Help ASAP!! --- Shifting Problems
I have a 2009 StreetBob and it has been running great, but today when I rode it to work I had problems downshifting gears! It felt like it was sticking in each gear and sometimes not shifting at all.
Upshifting felt fine, but it was a little sticky also....
The bike only has 5000 miles on it and I am lost
Need advice on this fast!!
Upshifting felt fine, but it was a little sticky also....
The bike only has 5000 miles on it and I am lost
Need advice on this fast!!
Road Warrior
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,699
Likes: 2
From: Deltona, FL
+1 on clutch adjustment. It sounds like your clutch is dragging a little, causing the transmission gears to remain engaged.
Grab your manual and read through the clutch adjustment procedures, but it's basically like this:
1) Loosen your clutch cable, providing plenty of slack
2) Open your derby cover (you either need the bike on a jack or somehow held level to avoid leakage).
3) Put the bike in a high gear, 3rd is usually best and this can be done without the clutch while the motor is off.
4) Grab an 11/16" wrench or preferably a ratchet and socket with the hole in the head of the ratchet.
5) Grab, I believe a 1/4" long allen wrench.
6) With the socket or wrench on the jamnut in the center of the clutch hub, spin the primary to the left until you're up against the compression of the engine, then you can loosen the jamnut. Back it off a bit so you can turn the center adjustment screw in.
7) Turn the adjustment screw, with a light touch, until you take up all slack and feel tension.
8) Back the adjustment screw out 1/2 to 1 turn, then hold it there with the allen (I look for a point of reference to ensure it doesn't spin on the clutch hub, like a bolt or something. This is important later when you tighten the jamnut.)
9) Spin the jamnut back on until it makes contact while holding the adjuster in place.
10) Tighten the jamnut with either the wrench or socket while holding the adjuster in place. At this point the primary may start rotating to the right, just follow it with the allen ensuring you don't spin the adjuster itself. As long as it all moves as one assembly, you're still good.
11) Torque the jamnut if you're so inclined, I've never bothered with anything other than German Torque.
12) Squeeze your clutch lever three times to ensure the ramp and ball is properly seated.
13) Close the derby cover, torquing the bolts accordingly
14) Adjust cable so there is 1/16" to 1/8" free play between the clutch cable ferrule and the housing.
15) Test ride.
To test the theory that your clutch is dragging, start the bike in gear with the clutch lever pulled in. If the bike lurches a bit, your clutch is dragging. Incidentally, if you want to change the distance of your friction zone from the hand grip, the adjustment screw is where you can make that change.
Grab your manual and read through the clutch adjustment procedures, but it's basically like this:
1) Loosen your clutch cable, providing plenty of slack
2) Open your derby cover (you either need the bike on a jack or somehow held level to avoid leakage).
3) Put the bike in a high gear, 3rd is usually best and this can be done without the clutch while the motor is off.
4) Grab an 11/16" wrench or preferably a ratchet and socket with the hole in the head of the ratchet.
5) Grab, I believe a 1/4" long allen wrench.
6) With the socket or wrench on the jamnut in the center of the clutch hub, spin the primary to the left until you're up against the compression of the engine, then you can loosen the jamnut. Back it off a bit so you can turn the center adjustment screw in.
7) Turn the adjustment screw, with a light touch, until you take up all slack and feel tension.
8) Back the adjustment screw out 1/2 to 1 turn, then hold it there with the allen (I look for a point of reference to ensure it doesn't spin on the clutch hub, like a bolt or something. This is important later when you tighten the jamnut.)
9) Spin the jamnut back on until it makes contact while holding the adjuster in place.
10) Tighten the jamnut with either the wrench or socket while holding the adjuster in place. At this point the primary may start rotating to the right, just follow it with the allen ensuring you don't spin the adjuster itself. As long as it all moves as one assembly, you're still good.
11) Torque the jamnut if you're so inclined, I've never bothered with anything other than German Torque.
12) Squeeze your clutch lever three times to ensure the ramp and ball is properly seated.
13) Close the derby cover, torquing the bolts accordingly
14) Adjust cable so there is 1/16" to 1/8" free play between the clutch cable ferrule and the housing.
15) Test ride.
To test the theory that your clutch is dragging, start the bike in gear with the clutch lever pulled in. If the bike lurches a bit, your clutch is dragging. Incidentally, if you want to change the distance of your friction zone from the hand grip, the adjustment screw is where you can make that change.
Last edited by Phrogman; Jul 29, 2011 at 09:47 AM.
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