Diff from FXD and FXDX?
Road Master
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 1,016
Likes: 3
From: West New york, NJ
Also remember that there were a bunch of differences between the '99&'00 up. Shocks, forks, brakes, swingarm and fender. Look at the adjustability of the front fork and the rotors and calipers.
Road Captain
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 581
Likes: 1
From: williamston, n.c
Mines lowered, different front end to tell the truth nothing says FXDX on it except the black motor and tank decal. Mine handles fine, rides good no complants here.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 11,814
Likes: 5,120
From: SW Ohio
[quote=PhotoRider;9000376]Also the front rake is 28 degrees verses (I believe) the standard 32 degrees. This changes the handling and makes it more responsive - at the cost of straight line stability i.e. it wants to turn and requires more effort to go straight 
/quote]
I hate resurrect an old thread but there may be somebody looking for this info and I don't want them to get the wrong impression. The rake on the FXD and the FXDX frames are the same at 28 degrees. The suspension is indeed different but the frames are exactly the same.
/quote]
I hate resurrect an old thread but there may be somebody looking for this info and I don't want them to get the wrong impression. The rake on the FXD and the FXDX frames are the same at 28 degrees. The suspension is indeed different but the frames are exactly the same.
1st Gear
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
From: Albuquerque
I just bought a 2000 FXDX with 5800 miles on it and offered the owner $5000. It was the week before Christmas and he took my offer. The only change from stock he made was the Harley Davidson Slash cut exhaust which the dealer installed before he took delivery in 2001. The ride home from his house on the far west side of Albuquerque to my house on the east side on the stock seat was the most uncomfortable ride I've ever had. I've owned a Triumph Daytona 500, a BMW R80GS, an FLH80, a BMW R90/6 and XL1200C and have never been so uncomfortable. My knees were higher than my hips and my feet were so far behind my knees I felt like I couldn't flex my ankle to shift and was locked onto the pegs and had to force my feet off when I came to a stop light. I found a Sundowner seat for $155 on Ebay. This fixed the problem by moving me back a few inches and raising me up an inch. I'm going to buy a Mustang Vintage Solo seat to use as my standard daily commuter seat. The riding position now feels like the R90 or the Triumph and should be great for all types of riding, more sporty than the FLH and better all around riding comfort than the 1200C had due to the mid control position. It does have the forward foot pegs for moving my feet forward for longer rides. I think I've found the perfect motorcycle and can imagine owning this bike for a long time.
Last edited by buzoyster; Dec 29, 2013 at 07:49 PM. Reason: Off topic
Intermediate
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 39
Likes: 0
From: Maryland
There seems to be a bit of confusion. I know this is an old thread but still probably useful to someone.
To clear up a few things....
The FXDX and FXDXT have a 28* Rake
1999 FXDX had the same dual disc front end as Dyna FXDS convertible models. It is NOT adjustable and has the older style calipers. The '99s also did NOT have adjustable rear shocks.
The '99 Twin Cam motors had issues with the inner cam bearing. HD covered this under warranty. It was up to the owner to take it in to be repaired. If youre looking at buying a '99 find out if they were fixed first.
Adjustable forks and shocks showed up in for the 2000 model year as well as the new style calipers and Sealed Wheel Bearings. For reference on height, The gold FXDX a few pages back has the factory 13.6" DX/ DXT suspension. Those are factory shocks and if youre looking to replace them, they're about $415....each. That added height makes for a much higher lean angle and you can really carve up some turns.
Aside from a few minor changes (rear fender width, wiring harness) The DX/DXT remained mostly the same until the last year when it went to EFI.
If you want your DX to stick in the turns, DO NOT put Dunlops on it. Throw a good set of sticky tires on there, a bit heavier weight Fork oil in the front end, and push the bike harder. The bike will respond well. Youll go through foot pegs and the outside edge of your boot soles pretty quickly.
I originally bought my 2000 FXDX to replace my crashed '91 FXRS-SP. As far as handling, The FXDX at high speed is not quite as stable as my FXR was. Dynas are known for a little bit of a wiggle. A lot of that is in the design of the frame. That can be tamed with a new set of motor mounts and if you really want, a Sputhe or TruTrack Chassis Stabilzer. All in all I prefer an FXR, but the DX is a great bike.
Next build for me will be to throw my Twin Cam in an FXR chassis.
To clear up a few things....
The FXDX and FXDXT have a 28* Rake
1999 FXDX had the same dual disc front end as Dyna FXDS convertible models. It is NOT adjustable and has the older style calipers. The '99s also did NOT have adjustable rear shocks.
The '99 Twin Cam motors had issues with the inner cam bearing. HD covered this under warranty. It was up to the owner to take it in to be repaired. If youre looking at buying a '99 find out if they were fixed first.
Adjustable forks and shocks showed up in for the 2000 model year as well as the new style calipers and Sealed Wheel Bearings. For reference on height, The gold FXDX a few pages back has the factory 13.6" DX/ DXT suspension. Those are factory shocks and if youre looking to replace them, they're about $415....each. That added height makes for a much higher lean angle and you can really carve up some turns.
Aside from a few minor changes (rear fender width, wiring harness) The DX/DXT remained mostly the same until the last year when it went to EFI.
If you want your DX to stick in the turns, DO NOT put Dunlops on it. Throw a good set of sticky tires on there, a bit heavier weight Fork oil in the front end, and push the bike harder. The bike will respond well. Youll go through foot pegs and the outside edge of your boot soles pretty quickly.
I originally bought my 2000 FXDX to replace my crashed '91 FXRS-SP. As far as handling, The FXDX at high speed is not quite as stable as my FXR was. Dynas are known for a little bit of a wiggle. A lot of that is in the design of the frame. That can be tamed with a new set of motor mounts and if you really want, a Sputhe or TruTrack Chassis Stabilzer. All in all I prefer an FXR, but the DX is a great bike.
Next build for me will be to throw my Twin Cam in an FXR chassis.
Last edited by WinkMoto; Dec 31, 2013 at 04:48 PM.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 11,814
Likes: 5,120
From: SW Ohio
The FXD also has a 28 degree rake. Only the WG had a different fork rake, of 32 degrees if I remember right. The Dyna family rake changed to 28 degrees (but for the WG) in 95 or 96.
Jump on Ronnie's HD parts fische. You can pull up the frames for each model and the rake is listed. Don't fool yourself. HD has made millions by making different models by bolting stuff on or taking stuff off. Not by having 3 separate frames in one family of motorcycles.
Jump on Ronnie's HD parts fische. You can pull up the frames for each model and the rake is listed. Don't fool yourself. HD has made millions by making different models by bolting stuff on or taking stuff off. Not by having 3 separate frames in one family of motorcycles.
Last edited by Campy Roadie; Dec 31, 2013 at 07:27 PM.
Road Master
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 1,181
Likes: 98
From: north of the south pole
I think the rear shock length changed in 2001 on the FXDX/FXDT from the 2000 model - at least what the technical guy at Works told me. What he said was the 2000 year was 13" and the 2001-2005 was 13.38. Since I never saw a stock shock for mine I don't know for sure. Anyway I went with the 13.38". Works doesn't have a 13.6, but they have a 13.75 which he said was an longer option over stock.
I can't compare my Works to stock since the bike had progressive 12" versions when I bought it. However, the Works shocks are really nice. Compared to how the bike was when I bought it its night and day. My friend who rode the bike home stated it was all over the place especially on medium bumps. It simply didn't want to stay where it was pointed. After I changed the shocks and put the forks back to stock it is solid as a rock and more so than my other two bikes. I would buy the Works shocks again.
Stock shocks from what I hear are very nice. The have compression damping adj and preload. The Works I bought (black trackers) only have preload. The compression damping and rebound are set by Works per my weight etc. You can buy a version which has a quick adj for the preload (ARS system) in case you go solo and 2 up.
Yes the front needs some work. I put SE oil in mine and had them rebuilt. It still dive a bit when braking so I am thinking about dual rate springs. You might be able to adj some of it out, but it could be difficult to need your cake and eat it too
I can't compare my Works to stock since the bike had progressive 12" versions when I bought it. However, the Works shocks are really nice. Compared to how the bike was when I bought it its night and day. My friend who rode the bike home stated it was all over the place especially on medium bumps. It simply didn't want to stay where it was pointed. After I changed the shocks and put the forks back to stock it is solid as a rock and more so than my other two bikes. I would buy the Works shocks again.
Stock shocks from what I hear are very nice. The have compression damping adj and preload. The Works I bought (black trackers) only have preload. The compression damping and rebound are set by Works per my weight etc. You can buy a version which has a quick adj for the preload (ARS system) in case you go solo and 2 up.
Yes the front needs some work. I put SE oil in mine and had them rebuilt. It still dive a bit when braking so I am thinking about dual rate springs. You might be able to adj some of it out, but it could be difficult to need your cake and eat it too
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