When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Dyna Glide ModelsSuper Glide, Super Glide Sport, Super Glide Custom, Dyna Glide Convertible, Super Glide T-Sport, Dyna Glide Police, Dyna Switchback, Low Rider, Street Bob, Fat Bob and Wide Glide.
Steering Bearing replacement conundrum.
Starting point of a lot of work: Tire leaking at rim, lesson learned; dont put corrosive stop leak inside aluminum wheels. Off the wheel for powder coating. Im closing on 40K, pull the 03 FXDXs special forks and take them in to HD shop for rebuild while down.
Now, I feel a notchy movement when testing the fall away of the freed up bare trees.
I pull the steering stem, bearings and cuss and barrow a tool and pop out the races.
Conundrum: New Steering Bearing installation. I get Pivot Works part PWSSK-HD01-000. Kit has two races, two bearings and two metal-washer-reinforced rubber seals that go on the wider end of the bearing. Old bearings pulled out had no such rubber seal.
Do I use the rubber seal?
Called Harley shop. Advised by shop person not to use rubber part. Only put in what came out. quoth he, sensibly.
Emailed on Sunday and then called on Monday to PivotWorks. Call answered by person who advised not to use the rubber. Said the kit is used for many applications.
Email arrived from PW, advised TO use the rubber seal in place of the original Harley metal seals (dust shields in HD speak). What the hell? Who to believe?
Had already installed the lower bearing without the rubber seal. Plan on retaining the rubber for the top.
Anyone else buy replacement late model steering bearings and get rubber seals? Use them or lose them?
As others have stated no need to replace the bearings or races at 5K unless....
If the forks have been run loose the rollers can dent the races.. Look real close at the race with a magnifying lense.. See any dents on the front or back side replace the bearings and races.
Originally Posted by Calvin88
Steering Bearing replacement conundrum.
Starting point of a lot of work: Tire leaking at rim, lesson learned; dont put corrosive stop leak inside aluminum wheels. Off the wheel for powder coating. Im closing on 40K, pull the 03 FXDXs special forks and take them in to HD shop for rebuild while down.
Now, I feel a notchy movement when testing the fall away of the freed up bare trees.
I pull the steering stem, bearings and cuss and barrow a tool and pop out the races.
Conundrum: New Steering Bearing installation. I get Pivot Works part PWSSK-HD01-000. Kit has two races, two bearings and two metal-washer-reinforced rubber seals that go on the wider end of the bearing. Old bearings pulled out had no such rubber seal.
Do I use the rubber seal?
Called Harley shop. Advised by shop person not to use rubber part. Only put in what came out. quoth he, sensibly.
Emailed on Sunday and then called on Monday to PivotWorks. Call answered by person who advised not to use the rubber. Said the kit is used for many applications.
Email arrived from PW, advised TO use the rubber seal in place of the original Harley metal seals (dust shields in HD speak). What the hell? Who to believe?
Had already installed the lower bearing without the rubber seal. Plan on retaining the rubber for the top.
Anyone else buy replacement late model steering bearings and get rubber seals? Use them or lose them?
Calvin.. I would use the seals.. If your FXDX has a solid neck you could drill and tap for zerk and leave the seals out as IIRC Dyna frames the stem area opens towards the back of the frame.. Still I'd use the seals..
Since you are doing the front, it's worthwhile to replace the Timkens on the left side of the swingarm and the bushing on the other side.
Already have the lower bearing in sans rubber, slapped it on soon as the phone calls to HD and PWorks agreed, but will use the rubber on the top. Actually as the bottom takes most of the pounding from both vertical and horizontal forces having a metal cap on the bottom seems to be sensible.
Will look into the rear as soon as time and money are available. I took the time to polish 13 years of funk off the legs and trees by hand, and to paint the unswept areas of the twin disks, learning as I went. The wife is out of patience with the disassembly spread all over and tells me my time of calm contemplation of my mess is at a close.
Tried using the rubber seal on the top. No go! That leaves a gap open to the elements.
Had to pull the seal and use the OEM metal dust seal. I have a Showa front fork (FXDX Model HD). Perhaps on other Dyna's the rubber seal can work. Don't know.
Old thread but i thought seein as im doin the same only diiference is i wana chrome my trees on my breakout instead. Bike has done 11000Miles.
now im assuming the lower bearing has to be removed prior to chroming lower tree ??
If so doesnt the removal of the bearing damage the cage ect ? i seen videos where peeps have tapped the inner race to get it off..i assume this is because you cant get a press plate onto it.
The manual says to heat bearing and it falls off but again that heat couldnt be good.
so if i have to replace the bearings either due to damage or poor chinese brand then how do i remove and install new cups from frame without special tool ?
Old thread but i thought seein as im doin the same only diiference is i wana chrome my trees on my breakout instead. Bike has done 11000Miles.
now im assuming the lower bearing has to be removed prior to chroming lower tree ??
If so doesnt the removal of the bearing damage the cage ect ? i seen videos where peeps have tapped the inner race to get it off..i assume this is because you cant get a press plate onto it.
The manual says to heat bearing and it falls off but again that heat couldnt be good.
so if i have to replace the bearings either due to damage or poor chinese brand then how do i remove and install new cups from frame without special tool ?
you dont. You'll need some sort of tool. I used the OTC race removal tool. I had to fiddle with it.. I try to dig up the one DK used on their build.
7 Surprising Harley-Davidson Products that Are Not Motorcycles
Slideshow: The bar-and-shield logo shows up on far more than motorcycles, some of the company's most unexpected products have nothing to do with riding.
Slideshow: From the troubled AMF years to modern misfires, these bikes earned reputations for reliability issues, questionable engineering, or disappointing performance.
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Slideshow: The Swiss custom shop has taken a Harley Softail and stretched it into something so long and low that it looks closer to a rolling sculpture than a conventional motorcycle.
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Slideshow: A standard cruiser becomes an intricate metal canvas in the hands of a Swiss custom house known for pushing Harley-Davidson platforms far beyond their factory brief.
Slideshow: Harley-Davidson's challenges aren't abstract; they show up in dropping shipments, shrinking dealer traffic, and strategic decisions that aren't yet translating into growth.
)
