SE120R install in the FXDX
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Road Master
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 934
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From: PNW, USA
SE120R install in the FXDX
Got the 120R in and the install process has begun. Old TC95 out and 120R mounted. Front lowers and triple trees power coated black. Had them take the rocker covers and the timing covers off the old engine to keep the engine all black. Should be done soon, but the clutch pressure plate is on back order till 4/15 so still will be awhile. Thank god for my Road King or I would be goning crazy!
Here are some pics from the build and the new carb. Its BIG...
Here are some pics from the build and the new carb. Its BIG...
Thread Starter
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Road Master
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 934
Likes: 0
From: PNW, USA
Well the engine and install about $7K and paint another $2K for all 4 tins.
One can only hope for rocket status. Having them break it in on the dyno so it will be good to go out the door.
One can only hope for rocket status. Having them break it in on the dyno so it will be good to go out the door.
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 4,919
Likes: 23
From: Seattle, WA
What carb is that ...?
Also, what mods if any are required to use the motor with your '00 FXDX ...? I thought the old carb models had a cam position sensor that the newer FI bikes dispensed with ... I suppose if you're using your stock cam chest cover that solves that problem ...
What intake manifold are you using with the new carb ...? The old take-off one ...? If so, are you getting it ported/reshaped to flow more CFM to the (substantially) bigger inch motor ...?
What pipe are you going to use ...?
Anything else you're doing doing to the new motor ... cams ...? Seen several 120R install threads and quite a few of them swap out the cams and a few other 'upgrades' before installing ...
Thanks for posting ... I think there has been some question as to what year Twin Cam motors could be replaced with the 120R ... unless someone posts a '99 swap, looks like you've got the oldest platform I've seen ....
Looks good ... I'm jealous ...
R/
'Chop
Also, what mods if any are required to use the motor with your '00 FXDX ...? I thought the old carb models had a cam position sensor that the newer FI bikes dispensed with ... I suppose if you're using your stock cam chest cover that solves that problem ...
What intake manifold are you using with the new carb ...? The old take-off one ...? If so, are you getting it ported/reshaped to flow more CFM to the (substantially) bigger inch motor ...?
What pipe are you going to use ...?
Anything else you're doing doing to the new motor ... cams ...? Seen several 120R install threads and quite a few of them swap out the cams and a few other 'upgrades' before installing ...
Thanks for posting ... I think there has been some question as to what year Twin Cam motors could be replaced with the 120R ... unless someone posts a '99 swap, looks like you've got the oldest platform I've seen ....
Looks good ... I'm jealous ...
R/
'Chop
LOSER
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 5,719
Likes: 4
From: Williamston, NC
You suck! Lol! Good for you! Can't wait to hear your thoughts when done. Please keep us posted!
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Road Master
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 934
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From: PNW, USA
The carb is the SE pro super bore 51MM CV and the intake is the matching Pro high-flow intake manifold. Its also being ported to improve flow.
The cam position sensor was the largest issue for my year. They are using the timing sensor from the original TC88 (95 now) plus a new SE ignition module required for the new engine. The shop had to work it out with the HD tech support team to be sure it was the path to take. The cam position sensor changed in 2002 so new carb'ed TC's don't require this fix. This is the reason the SE catology only lists the SE120R down to 2002 (both EFI and carb).
The pipes are black LSRII's. I originally bought them last year for my TC95 and are 1 3/4". Had I known I was going to go for the 120R I would have got 2" tubes. I am going to give them a shot. If the flow isn't there, I will either replace with the 2" version or go with the D&D's Boarzilla 2:1's. Seems most people use D&D's for the 120R's, but the LSRII's are also a great choice from my experience in the past.
Not going into the motor this round. I know many people replace the cams since they are high rpm/HP. I am used to the S&S 585's in the TC95 and the SE 266E's are similar in power verses RPM curve so I am going to try them to see. If I don't like them I will replace. Not a big issue to do.
Some true/weld the crank. I figure in time I will get used to this version and want more. At that point I will break it open and do that with another round of flow work in the heads and then maybe bearings etc. I discussed this with GMR who has done many 120's. They typically have two levels of work. The 2nd level typically is what we called blue printed and balanced back in the day (70's). Being carb'ed some of the work changes.
Also up grading to the SE race clutch with some after market springs to adjust the heavy pull. Exactly what not sure. The shop discussed will several sources to decide which would be best for my application. Using the new SE compensator and the original primary covers.
Typically most builds around here are touring bikes and there people want more torque at lower RPM's - hence the cam changes
Also, keeping the final drive belt - well until it breaks. Then maybe go chain final.
I think the biggest limitation will be the tires. The FXDX has a 150. I could go to a 160, but that's it unless I change the fender/swing arm or a smaller belt (ugh!)
Not sure, but I would think the 99 dyna's would be very similar in mods to my 2000.
The cam position sensor was the largest issue for my year. They are using the timing sensor from the original TC88 (95 now) plus a new SE ignition module required for the new engine. The shop had to work it out with the HD tech support team to be sure it was the path to take. The cam position sensor changed in 2002 so new carb'ed TC's don't require this fix. This is the reason the SE catology only lists the SE120R down to 2002 (both EFI and carb).
The pipes are black LSRII's. I originally bought them last year for my TC95 and are 1 3/4". Had I known I was going to go for the 120R I would have got 2" tubes. I am going to give them a shot. If the flow isn't there, I will either replace with the 2" version or go with the D&D's Boarzilla 2:1's. Seems most people use D&D's for the 120R's, but the LSRII's are also a great choice from my experience in the past.
Not going into the motor this round. I know many people replace the cams since they are high rpm/HP. I am used to the S&S 585's in the TC95 and the SE 266E's are similar in power verses RPM curve so I am going to try them to see. If I don't like them I will replace. Not a big issue to do.
Some true/weld the crank. I figure in time I will get used to this version and want more. At that point I will break it open and do that with another round of flow work in the heads and then maybe bearings etc. I discussed this with GMR who has done many 120's. They typically have two levels of work. The 2nd level typically is what we called blue printed and balanced back in the day (70's). Being carb'ed some of the work changes.
Also up grading to the SE race clutch with some after market springs to adjust the heavy pull. Exactly what not sure. The shop discussed will several sources to decide which would be best for my application. Using the new SE compensator and the original primary covers.
Typically most builds around here are touring bikes and there people want more torque at lower RPM's - hence the cam changes
Also, keeping the final drive belt - well until it breaks. Then maybe go chain final.
I think the biggest limitation will be the tires. The FXDX has a 150. I could go to a 160, but that's it unless I change the fender/swing arm or a smaller belt (ugh!)
Not sure, but I would think the 99 dyna's would be very similar in mods to my 2000.
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