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installing big bore stage 2 kit

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Old Jun 15, 2012 | 10:34 PM
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Default installing big bore stage 2 kit

Who has installed their own? dose the motor have to be removed from the chassis? Are there any special tools needed or just the usual one's when doing top end work? Does anyone know if there's a video out there that helps you walk threw this process.

I know i will need a blind hole puller for the bearings for the cam's, is there anything else?
 

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Old Jun 15, 2012 | 11:32 PM
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I did my own big bore install a little over a year-and-a-half ago ...



I posted a thread here ... https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-...bandwagon.html ... I took about as many photos as I could and discussed the step-by-step as well as I could at the time ... a few guys chimed in with some good info and a few links to other threads ...

If you do a search you should find some good info and some photos ... several guys in the Touring forum that I used as reference guides ...

Good luck ... you can do it ... just post up your questions as you go ...

R/
'Chop
 
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Old Jun 16, 2012 | 10:06 AM
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i see the motor dosn't have to come out which was a determining factor if i was gonna do it myself or not. I watched the u tube video that another member post on how to change the cams dosn't really seem that hard to do, getting the push rods adjusted rite seems a little tricky though. I've had the primary apart to do the forward controls and chasing an oil leak. Clutches are pretty simple deffenetly no worries there. I've had the gas tank off to get paint fixed thats easy too. DAMN I think i just talked myself into doing it lol
 
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Old Jun 16, 2012 | 10:25 AM
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IghdBTquGgI
 
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Old Jun 16, 2012 | 11:08 AM
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Originally Posted by ilovemyskidoo
i see the motor dosn't have to come out which was a determining factor if i was gonna do it myself or not. I watched the u tube video that another member post on how to change the cams dosn't really seem that hard to do, getting the push rods adjusted rite seems a little tricky though. I've had the primary apart to do the forward controls and chasing an oil leak. Clutches are pretty simple deffenetly no worries there. I've had the gas tank off to get paint fixed thats easy too. DAMN I think i just talked myself into doing it lol
If you were going to replace the crank with a 'stroker' or if you were inclined to weld the crank or do the 'lefty' bearing replacement ... you would need to remove the motor from the frame ... to just do a big bore kit, you can leave it in the frame ...

I reused my stock pushrods ... that would belay the concern about adjustables ... IMO there is really no reason to replace the stock pushrods unless you are doing something to change the valvetrain geometry ... if the 'base circle' of the cams is the same as stock (which most 'bolt-in' cams are) you are golden ...

What year is your bike ...? ('05-earlier or '06-later) ... if from before '06, you'll need a cam chain tensioner tool ... it is a jig that goes over the tensioner arm and allows you to relieve the tension on the cam chains for removal ... also, the early cams need to be pressed out of the cam plate ... there is a die set to do that or if you have some scrap around that is what I used ... to get it back together you can do the oven / freezer method ...

Or, if you're so inclined, replace with the hydraulic-tensioner, late-style cam plate, oil pump, conversion cams setup ...

Go for it ...

Originally Posted by p51bombay
That is probably the video the OP referenced ... a great video ...

Good luck ...

R/
'Chop
 
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Old Jun 16, 2012 | 05:18 PM
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No stroker or crank truing or welding at this point just the big bore kit. My fxdl is an 08.
Thanks for the video guys this will defenetly help.
 
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Old Jun 17, 2012 | 04:55 AM
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Good luck, just take your time its not to bad of a job.
 
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Old Jun 17, 2012 | 09:23 AM
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After watching that video it really doesn't seem that hard. When i stopped at the dealer this past week and they said $1500 or $1300 if i wait till winter, my wife's eyes were as big as basketballs. I knew that was never gonna happen at that price, so now im armed with info and video's and i've got the price down to about $800. In the end all I'll need my dealer to do is write a new map and see what the number show on the dyno.
 
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Old Jul 11, 2012 | 06:54 PM
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Finally got my 103 kit today and started to install it. I figured i'd doo it in 4 steps 1 changing clutch spring. 2 changing cams 3 taking top end apart and 4 putting top end back together. So tonight was step 1 changing clutch spring wow it pulls much harder now will take a bit to get used to. will update tommorrow on how cams went.
 
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