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Remove the link, adjust length 1/2 turn at a time, replace link. Repeat as required.
Sputhe top link or eBay SBC alternator adjuster are better alternatives, tho.
I cant find good examples of either of those two alternatives. Sputhe DTS only returns a single line on their price list. Nothing else. SBC alternator adjuster on eBay returns small block Chevy alternators and a couple 2.5 heim links they look no different from the Harley top link.
I would NOT recommend the CCE top link. It basically does the opposite of what most people want... It allows a lot of movement up top. It's designed purely to control vibration, NOT to maintain correct alignment. I used one for three or four months. I won't use it again.
I cant find good examples of either of those two alternatives. Sputhe DTS only returns a single line on their price list. Nothing else. SBC alternator adjuster on eBay returns small block Chevy alternators and a couple 2.5 heim links they look no different from the Harley top link.
It worked fine, but I ended up upgrading the ends later (based on input from Chris). This one worked fine out of the box (envelope?), but it got squeaky regularly. A periodic shot of chain wax worked pretty well. With the new ends (from Midwest Controls, I think) I still keep them lubed, but the lube seems to last a lot longer now.
Has anyone ever checked the alignment on their bike?
The manual gives a pretty clear description of the procedure but I was wondering if anyone's done it and has some tips.
One question is, how do I get at the stabilizer link jam nut just above the motor? I have the tank off right now and it still looks hard to get at. It there a tool that'll get me in there?
The book also says I have to have the exhaust in place to perform this procedure. Does that mean I have to have the tank on too?
It also talk about having the bike perfectly level. I check the stand I have it on and it is not perfectly level. I was thinking just shim the one side of the frame on the stand to achieve this as it's not too far off. Thoughts on that?
Once it's level it talks about using an inclinometer to check the brake discs for vertical. They need to ultimately be within one degree of each other. I guess I won't be able to just use a level on that huh?
Thanks for any input...
Ray
If you have an Android phone, go to Google Play Store, search for Clinometer Version 2.4 I use it, and it is fabulous.
It worked fine, but I ended up upgrading the ends later (based on input from Chris). This one worked fine out of the box (envelope?), but it got squeaky regularly. A periodic shot of chain wax worked pretty well. With the new ends (from Midwest Controls, I think) I still keep them lubed, but the lube seems to last a lot longer now.
Thanks Tarik, Ill check it out.
Originally Posted by Carlos G Godfrog
If you have an Android phone, go to Google Play Store, search for Clinometer Version 2.4 I use it, and it is fabulous.
Do we think the accelerometers/motion sensors in phones are accurately enough? Not sure what their margin of error are, nor do I know the tolerances needed for proper alignment.
It worked fine, but I ended up upgrading the ends later (based on input from Chris). This one worked fine out of the box (envelope?), but it got squeaky regularly. A periodic shot of chain wax worked pretty well. With the new ends (from Midwest Controls, I think) I still keep them lubed, but the lube seems to last a lot longer now.
1st thanks everyone for still being on top of it! which parts did you get from midwest controls? I got my link @
Thanks, I am hopefully I'm almost finished with this bike. All I did was replace the swingarm, the triples, the bars, amongst other things. It seemed much easier when I was reading the service manual. I really need a special edition sm
"explain it to me like I'm 5"
It worked fine, but I ended up upgrading the ends later (based on input from Chris). This one worked fine out of the box (envelope?), but it got squeaky regularly. A periodic shot of chain wax worked pretty well. With the new ends (from Midwest Controls, I think) I still keep them lubed, but the lube seems to last a lot longer now.
See, my problem is i overthink things. I'm sure this works great, but how does it adjust? I see a threaded barrel with a flat to get a wrench on. You still have to remove one of the heim joint bolts, right? Otherwise turning the barrel will simply move it higher on one side, and simultaneously lower on the other, right?
In essence the same as you have to do with the stock link. If so, what does this buy you?
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