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Dyna Glide ModelsSuper Glide, Super Glide Sport, Super Glide Custom, Dyna Glide Convertible, Super Glide T-Sport, Dyna Glide Police, Dyna Switchback, Low Rider, Street Bob, Fat Bob and Wide Glide.
Just was wondering if anyone has had any luck taking their gas tank into the shop to fix a dent that is about 3 or 4 inches in diameter on the side of the tank right where it rounds out? Or is it worth just getting something new and matching my paint? If so any ideas of where to get a new one that is raw steel? I'll post some pics later this evening of the tank. Thanks.
I was told by a friend and my body man whose been in the custom bike scene for years that pulling a dent from the front curve runs a good risk of burning a whole through when the stud is spot welded on.
So a lot of body guys don't want to do it. Just in case. So they don't run the risk of being liable for buying a new tank.
He said hes done many over the years without a problem but most won't risk it.
He said filler will hold through the vibrations but if the paint isn't done correctly and gas gets in at all it could break the metal to filler bond.
With that being said, watch eBay. I picked up a 2012 wide glide tank. Brand new, never mounted for like $45.
I tried this old trick that a 90 year old guy told me about, fill the tank with water, and freeze it, and keep doing it over and over until the dent is all the way popped out. Because the ice expands when it freezes, it slowly pushes out the dent. I tried it on an old dirt bike gas tank, and it took about 7 cycles, but it worked!
Thanks for the input guys. I wouldn't mind trying that freezing the tank trick, but gonna be looking for a used tank that is in nice shape that will bolt right up. Considering I won't be riding until next summer now anyways I think I will just break her down and be taking a lot of parts into the powder coater.
How deep is the dent? I've been able to tap a few out with a body hammer and dolly. Another trick you can try is heating the tank either by setting it out in the sun or with a hair dryer, then rubbing the dent with dry ice.
I manage a body shop and when I laid my bike down it flattened out the left side even worse than your describing. I brought it into my shop, drained the gas and ran a shop vac hose off the tailpipe of my old Chevy and shoved the other side into the tank. Then let the Chev idle for about ten minutes then let the tank sit for a couple hours. I was told this would get rid of any vapors that might go boom..... who knows. I took a nail gun to it and was surprised at how thick the metal was. Which is good for not tearing holes in it with the nails but it took more nails and time to get it out. A little bit of filler and it was smooth as new. Primed and paint and 5 years later it's still fine.
I did the same thing with my brother SuperHawk tank on a much smaller dent and tore holes in it with every nail then chased holes trying weld em all up... Never again will I do a sport bike tank.
we use stud welder on tanks every day... did it about 2 hours ago, even on old old ducati (50's) single layer tanks we have not blown though them at all... that said i have also had AWESOME luck with paint-less dent removal places in our area working magic... on some dyna tanks i have first had to pull the pump out so allow them to move around in there, but typically they can pull them out ... also the dry ice trick above... FANTASTIC!!!!! just dont use a heat gun use a hair dryer... will blow your mind how well that works, done it on cars and bikes
the above trick for using a exhaust to remove fumes is something i do here in the shop, works great so they dont blow up!
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