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Primary oil change 4 questions

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Old Jul 29, 2012 | 11:22 PM
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Default Primary oil change 4 questions

fxdwg 2010

So i just changed the primary fluids ... I took out about 1 liter so that's what I putted back no mention of the quantities in the owner manual so is that quantity correct ?

Second theyre were some metal residu on the magnetic nut, nothing alarming but ... I looked what I could look at by the derby, what should I inspect ?

Third In the owners manual they specify to change the gasket, ... normaly the derby should have one ? I got a rubber ring thats all did the guy before forgot it or in 2010 theyre arent one ?

Fourth the oil I took out was greyish... I putted this in the engine, the trans and now the primary :
http://www.hipertech.com/spip/spip.p...ge=moto20w50rm

you got the tech sheet at the bottom ... I'm just looking for a second advise thanks.
 
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Old Jul 30, 2012 | 05:23 AM
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So i just changed the primary fluids ... I took out about 1 liter so that's what I putted back no mention of the quantities in the owner manual so is that quantity correct ?
I would say close enough the primary takes 32 oz (.95L)
Third In the owners manual they specify to change the gasket, ... normaly the derby should have one ? I got a rubber ring thats all did the guy before forgot it or in 2010 theyre arent one ?
The primary gasket is the rubber seal I have an orange color one on my 2011 Street Bob
 
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Old Jul 30, 2012 | 07:24 AM
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The manual tells you not only how much but what grade/specification oil to use in each hole.

The rubber ring IS a gasket.

"Greyish" indicates moisture in the oil.
 
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Old Jul 30, 2012 | 07:46 AM
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The metal shavings are just clutch material and such that gets picked up by the magnet. The fluid turns a grayish color from the clutch, moisture would turn it white. There is much debate about the fluid type that you can use but bottom line is that you really shouldn't use any oil with friction modifiers in it like automotive oil, they can make your clutch slip and the damage is permanent. Harley sells oit that will work or you can use a diesel specific oil like Shell Rotella T which doesn't have friction modifiers. The orange o ring is the gasket and I still have my factory one on after 25k miles and 5 changes, some older models and aftermarket covers use a paper gasket. What you requested was ADVICE. What I did was ADVISE you. Good luck
 
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Old Jul 30, 2012 | 09:00 AM
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changing the primary oil is a good time to adjust your clutch while the cover is off

Here is a fill level indicator... Complements of another forum member
 
Attached Thumbnails Primary oil change 4 questions-fill_to_red-line.jpg  
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Old Jul 30, 2012 | 09:31 PM
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Thanks for the answer most of what I wanted been answered and everything I did Is fine. The oil I've putted in is for "racing" (yeah right) bike and got some additive for both wet and dry clutch in my own opinion its fine or better than the formula one .
 
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Old Jul 30, 2012 | 10:42 PM
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The only question not quite answered that I was wondering about is probably the most important ... What should I inspect and how can I check if its right or wrong
 
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Old Jul 30, 2012 | 11:37 PM
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What are you talking about inspecting to see if its wright or wrong?
 
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Old Jul 31, 2012 | 01:30 AM
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Originally Posted by crimson13
I would say close enough the primary takes 32 oz (.95L)
Unless the 96" engine on a 2010 Dyna is different than a 96" engine on a 2010 touring model, the primary takes 38 oz for a normal change. If you remove the entire outer primary cover, it takes 45 oz. That's right out of the 2010 Touring Service Manual.

If you just visually fill the primary up to the bottom of the clutch basket, you're good to go.
 
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Old Jul 31, 2012 | 02:09 AM
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What you used is probably okay. I changed mine to an oil for diesel engines as advised by a local shop. It made the clutch more grabby ( or less smooth ??) and I will dump it soon and try something else.
 
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