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cams / big bore kit

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Old Aug 7, 2012 | 01:53 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by fatjeff
I was wanting to do cams on my 2011 fat bob. My bike guy said that most likely the crank shift will have run out and need to be replaced costing close to 3k or more. Then we started talking about my options from there he said we could go to a 106 or 117 s&s. But I have a hard time changing out the motor at only 25k miles on it. I wanted to see what others have done and what to expect from cost to experiences. Also some one was saying they thought that going to a 117 would destroy the frame belt and other things ( I think is a load of mularky).
Any input from experiences is great.


Thank you for you're time
Jeff
Originally Posted by Good_Apollo
Yeah, unless you plan on going gear drive you should be fine. All of the Twinks past 02 have more run-out issues if trying to go gear driven.
The '99-'05 Dyna Twin Cam motors had a spring-type cam chain tensioner system in which the tensioner shoes were susceptible to excess wear and the risk that at relatively low mileage they would wear out and cause damage to the motor ... at the time, a popular alternative was to replace the chain driven cams with gear drive cams ...

The problem was that the gears are much more sensitive to lateral movement of the drive shaft (crank shaft) ... these year bikes had better manufacturing tolerances (on average) so usually not a problem ...

'06-later Dyna Twin Cam motors switched to a hydraulic cam chain tensioner system and the tensioner shoes are much less of an issue ... also easier to replace ...

Coincidentally, in the later models, the MoCo relaxed the tolerance for run out of the crank shaft ... (for the most part, this is not a problem) ... but, if for any reason, someone wants to use a gear drive setup, there is a greater probability that the crank shaft run out will not be within the tolerance specs (if I recall correctly, 0.002") ...

My point is ... I agree with Apollo ... no need to do anything with the crank ... just do not do gear cams ... plenty of good options for your motor ...

I would recommend Andrews 48 cams ... or Woods 555

Originally Posted by Knucklehead15
I am sold on the gear cams and the big bore. I have a 06 fxd I'm doing crank 4 3/8" (trued and welded), 106 s&s kit, 585g EZ, and primo clutch. So far in parts I have 2260.
Definitely would love to follow suit in splitting cases and throwing some more stroke down ... not sure I'd follow suit on the gear drive / cams (but, not knocking your selection) ...

Good luck with the build ...

R/
'Chop
 

Last edited by SURFOR Chop; Aug 7, 2012 at 02:01 PM.
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Old Aug 7, 2012 | 02:00 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by SURFOR Chop
The '99-'05 Dyna Twin Cam motors had a spring-type cam chain tensioner system in which the tensioner shoes were susceptible to excess wear and the risk that at relatively low mileage they would wear out and cause damage to the motor ... at the time, a popular alternative was to replace the chain driven cams with gear drive cams ...

The problem was that the gears are much more sensitive to lateral movement of the drive shaft (crank shaft) ... these year bikes had better manufacturing tolerances (on average) so usually not a problem ...

'06-later Dyna Twin Cam motors switched to a hydraulic cam chain tensioner system and the tensioner shoes are much less of an issue ... also easier to replace ...

Coincidentally, in the later models, the MoCo relaxed the tolerance for run out of the crank shaft ... (for the most part, this is not a problem) ... but, if for any reason, someone wants to use a gear drive setup, there is a greater probability that the crank shaft run out will not be within the tolerance specs (if I recall correctly, 0.002") ...



Definitely would love to follow suit in splitting cases and throwing some more stroke down ... not sure I'd follow suit on the gear drive / cams (but, not knocking your selection) ...

Good luck with the build ...

R/
'Chop

Don't forget that after 2002 the crankshafts went from forged to cast, which was where I was going with my original comment that the 2002 and earlier have a more stout crank and a timken bearing.
 
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Old Aug 7, 2012 | 06:49 PM
  #13  
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ok found the break down if I want to do geared and the crank has some run out then there is the issue. If that is the case for now I'll go with chain driven I can't see changing out a motor at only 25k! My pockets aren't that deep yet.
 
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Old Aug 7, 2012 | 07:09 PM
  #14  
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Just did the big bore on my bike all and all in the end i will have about $800 into it. $630 for the kit and and about 200'ish in misc. parts and dyno. i figure i did good my bike only had 15k miles on it.
 
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Old Aug 7, 2012 | 08:43 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by ilovemyskidoo
Just did the big bore on my bike all and all in the end i will have about $800 into it. $630 for the kit and and about 200'ish in misc. parts and dyno. i figure i did good my bike only had 15k miles on it.
Sounds super cheap what did you do (go from and to)?
 
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Old Aug 7, 2012 | 09:50 PM
  #16  
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i went from a 96" stage 1 to the 103 ' stage 2
 
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