True track or spruthe is next on my list. Everybody that has done this that I know say it was the biggest noticeable mod they have done.

 

I recently had a very similar experience and found it to be loose spokes in the rear wheel causing the bike to wobble. Had the wheel trued and the issue is gone.

 

Did you put the nut on your top stabilizer mount?

 

Front end vibration is the hardest thing to diagnose, my friend's 08 dyna shakes like hell at 70mph, she can't even hold the handlebar, yeah 16" ape she has. I have adjusted head bearings, wheel hi speed balance, ride height etc. Still doing it, I have no idea. Btw she has mag wheels not laced.

 

as said you need to go one by one to get to the bottom of it... start with tires... an trick is if you feel it in the front chances are the issue is in the rear... if i can help at all let me know.

tires, alignment, forks, shock settings, motor mounts, wheel balance, wheel not true, bearing rub, sacked out fork springs

 

This may be a long shot for folks with a high-speed wobble but check your motor mounts, especially the top mount under the tank. The bolts for these can loosen or back out and allow the motor to flop around and make the bike wobble at speeds.

 

I think sometimes if ya might have weak shocks could cause an out of ballance bobbing effect.

 

I had a front end wobble at 80+. I had put on a 1/4 fairing when I first noticed it. I only had the bike a short time and never went over 70 before I installed it. I put on new rear tire the other day and it's gone now. I also changed my front rotors. I think it was the tire that stopped it.

 

The angle of the front forks relative to level as they extend to the ground determines rake and trail. Greater rakes and trail makes for greater stability. Less rake and trail makes for quicker steering. It's a trade-off determined by the purpose of the bike.

The rake/trail measurement can be altered by either changing the steering head angle as welded to the frame OR by simply raising or lowering the front of the bike relative to the rear.

In actuality, dropping the fork tubes so their tops are flush with the triple clamp, results in slightly more rake and trail since the front end is angled higher in the air relative to the rear. This results in more straight-line stability at the cost of slightly heavier steering. All other things equal, this should not cause great wobble propensity.

If you jack-up the rear end with taller shocks for more cornering clearance, lifting up the front end will work to preserve the height of both front and rear and preserve the original handling characteristics.

I put taller Ohlins shocks on my rear that lifted it about an inch. This has the opposite effect of raising the front. It makes the front lower relative to the rear and quickens steering. I dropped my front tubes to flush to help balance out the height of front and rear.

A severe high-speed wobble is likely casued by something else. Check your motor mounts all around for tightness. Check steering head bearing tightness. Maybe check spokes. (Maybe tires.)

Also, check wheel alignment. (Level the frame with a level and then check the rear wheel brake rotor with a level for perfect perpendicular with frame level. Check rear wheel straightness by measuring axle ends from hole in bottom of swingarm or with a laser level to front wheel.)

Mine had a 30-40 mph low-speed wobble that was fixed by my replacing the cheap stock Harley chinesee bearings with Timken/Fafnir bearings from a local supply house. Use Timken/Fafnir 205PP .

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-...el-wobble.html


With a Sputhe suspension stabilizer kit, mine now corners in competition with my european bikes. Amazing.