FXDWG Evo or TC?
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 4,919
Likes: 23
From: Seattle, WA
Looks like you have gotten the 'search' function down ...
On that thread, the forum moderator "mud" who posted the fourth response has posted some more details on measuring the fork oil level ... in fact he has a great post with a lot of photos on draining and refilling the fork oil here ...
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/9609012-post1833.html
Nice Wide Glide ... you going to do anything special with the paint scheme ...?
Welcome to the HDforums ...
R/
'Chop
edit: the second post on this thread deals with removal and reinstalling the fork seals ... recommends using a 2-foot long 2-inch diameter piece of PVC plastic pipe to drive the replacement seals into place ...
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-...ml#post6093654
On that thread, the forum moderator "mud" who posted the fourth response has posted some more details on measuring the fork oil level ... in fact he has a great post with a lot of photos on draining and refilling the fork oil here ...
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/9609012-post1833.html
Nice Wide Glide ... you going to do anything special with the paint scheme ...?
Welcome to the HDforums ...
R/
'Chop
edit: the second post on this thread deals with removal and reinstalling the fork seals ... recommends using a 2-foot long 2-inch diameter piece of PVC plastic pipe to drive the replacement seals into place ...
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-...ml#post6093654
Last edited by SURFOR Chop; Sep 18, 2012 at 12:36 AM.
Thread Starter
|
Novice
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 19
Likes: 1
From: Poland
Thanks for the tips SURFOR Chop!
Coming from the off-road bikes, the fork seal and air chamber won't be a problem
There are no painters nearby, who could paint my bike with some fancy scheme so I'll have to opt for one, plain colour.
Still I can't make a choce as for what colour to use...
We have to deal with this first, next Monday:
On Sunday, I'll start stripping the bike.
Front and back fenders shouldn't be a problem.
Is there anything specific to consider when disassembling the tank?
Seals, fuel pump, fuel lines...?
Coming from the off-road bikes, the fork seal and air chamber won't be a problem
There are no painters nearby, who could paint my bike with some fancy scheme so I'll have to opt for one, plain colour.
Still I can't make a choce as for what colour to use...
We have to deal with this first, next Monday:
On Sunday, I'll start stripping the bike.
Front and back fenders shouldn't be a problem.
Is there anything specific to consider when disassembling the tank?
Seals, fuel pump, fuel lines...?
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 66,948
Likes: 4,573
From: TOAK western branch
Thanks for the tips SURFOR Chop!
Coming from the off-road bikes, the fork seal and air chamber won't be a problem
There are no painters nearby, who could paint my bike with some fancy scheme so I'll have to opt for one, plain colour.
Still I can't make a choce as for what colour to use...
We have to deal with this first, next Monday:
On Sunday, I'll start stripping the bike.
Front and back fenders shouldn't be a problem.
Is there anything specific to consider when disassembling the tank?
Seals, fuel pump, fuel lines...?
Coming from the off-road bikes, the fork seal and air chamber won't be a problem
There are no painters nearby, who could paint my bike with some fancy scheme so I'll have to opt for one, plain colour.
Still I can't make a choce as for what colour to use...
We have to deal with this first, next Monday:
On Sunday, I'll start stripping the bike.
Front and back fenders shouldn't be a problem.
Is there anything specific to consider when disassembling the tank?
Seals, fuel pump, fuel lines...?
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 4,265
Likes: 99
From: Northern VA
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 4,919
Likes: 23
From: Seattle, WA
Okay ... bike looks a lot nicer from the other side ...
To remove the tank, remove the quick disconnect fuel line at the left rear side of the tank by grasping the collar firmly and pushing it up and at the same time pulling the fuel line down ... it should pop right off ...
You'll need to remove the lead wires to the fuel gauge next ... follow them from where they come out of the tank ... there should be an AMP or Deutche-type connector that you can unplug ... look for a tab to depress and pull apart ...
At this point, if you haven't already, remove the bolts at the front and rear of the tank ... go ahead and do that ... you'll need two 1/2" wrenches ... one on either side ...
Finally, you'll need to remove the cross-over tube at the bottom front of the tank ... when you do this, it will allow fuel to drain out, so be ready to catch it ...
There are a couple of ways to do this ... if you have a replacement fuel line, you can clamp off both sides of the tube and just cut it in the middle ... otherwise, you can remove the clamp off one side and slide the line off the elbow ...
Remove the bolts on the dash / console and lift it off the tank and 'tie it off' (lay it aside) ...
With that, you should be able to remove the tank ...
Not sure how you plan to remove the dent ... that's bashed in pretty good ...
Good luck with the project ...
R/
'Chop
To remove the tank, remove the quick disconnect fuel line at the left rear side of the tank by grasping the collar firmly and pushing it up and at the same time pulling the fuel line down ... it should pop right off ...
You'll need to remove the lead wires to the fuel gauge next ... follow them from where they come out of the tank ... there should be an AMP or Deutche-type connector that you can unplug ... look for a tab to depress and pull apart ...
At this point, if you haven't already, remove the bolts at the front and rear of the tank ... go ahead and do that ... you'll need two 1/2" wrenches ... one on either side ...
Finally, you'll need to remove the cross-over tube at the bottom front of the tank ... when you do this, it will allow fuel to drain out, so be ready to catch it ...
There are a couple of ways to do this ... if you have a replacement fuel line, you can clamp off both sides of the tube and just cut it in the middle ... otherwise, you can remove the clamp off one side and slide the line off the elbow ...
Remove the bolts on the dash / console and lift it off the tank and 'tie it off' (lay it aside) ...
With that, you should be able to remove the tank ...
Not sure how you plan to remove the dent ... that's bashed in pretty good ...
Good luck with the project ...
R/
'Chop
Thread Starter
|
Novice
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 19
Likes: 1
From: Poland
Thanks again guys!
As for the tank, the painter said he's got some tools to get rid the most of the dent.
He mentioned that he'll heat the tank and pull the dent out.
We'll see... he's my friend so I trust him on this one.
I have changed the fork seals today, put fresh oil, went 15W with 110mm air chamber.
BTW I've found that my Dyna's front end has progressive fork springs fitted and "home-made" ( at least they look like ) tubes, to put some pre-load on the springs.
Shame I didn't take the measurements down but do they come with progressive springs stock?
I did manage to get some manuals off my newly met neighbour, who rides Electra.
Question about torque values in manual.
If it states let's say from X to Y value, do you calculate and go for one in the middle or go for X or Y?
I'm using Nm here and the differences in some cases are huge!!!
As for the tank, the painter said he's got some tools to get rid the most of the dent.
He mentioned that he'll heat the tank and pull the dent out.
We'll see... he's my friend so I trust him on this one.
I have changed the fork seals today, put fresh oil, went 15W with 110mm air chamber.
BTW I've found that my Dyna's front end has progressive fork springs fitted and "home-made" ( at least they look like ) tubes, to put some pre-load on the springs.
Shame I didn't take the measurements down but do they come with progressive springs stock?
I did manage to get some manuals off my newly met neighbour, who rides Electra.
Question about torque values in manual.
If it states let's say from X to Y value, do you calculate and go for one in the middle or go for X or Y?
I'm using Nm here and the differences in some cases are huge!!!
I almost always use Blue Locktite on fasterners and usually favor going towards the tighter value, but no more than that...ever.
Whether using Nm or FtLbs, the force-effect is the same on the fastener.
1 Pound-Foot is .7 Nm.
Whether using Nm or FtLbs, the force-effect is the same on the fastener.
1 Pound-Foot is .7 Nm.
Last edited by Austin Dave; Sep 20, 2012 at 06:19 PM.
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Thread Starter
|
Novice
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 19
Likes: 1
From: Poland
Finished!!!
I have finally finished putting Dyna together, after it has been painted.
Taking all the tank guts out wasn't a big deal, I've changed fuel filter in the meantime.
I chose Opel Graphite II colour which depending on light, goes from graphite, deep blue to gold colour.
The dent dissapeared almost completely, believe me!
This photo is just a quick teaser.
I'll take some more in the daylight.
Have a look at the air filter:
Is it OEM one?
To me it looks like it's cleanable, like K&N, am I right?
It looks caked BTW, which is probably why my MPG is so bad(?) = 30
Any comments?
Also I do get a clunk noise from the front end somewhere, but only when I hit a pot hole etc.
I did checked the f.e. when changing the fork oil, there's no freeplay or wear.
I suspect brake pads clunking in the caliper as the caliper itself is solid.
Anyone with similar symptoms?
I also need one of these emblems:
Does anoyone have a spare I could buy?
Checked eBay already, you can buy them in pairs, just don't need two at the moment unless I won't find one.
Without emblems, the tank looks so plain.
Taking all the tank guts out wasn't a big deal, I've changed fuel filter in the meantime.
I chose Opel Graphite II colour which depending on light, goes from graphite, deep blue to gold colour.
The dent dissapeared almost completely, believe me!
This photo is just a quick teaser.
I'll take some more in the daylight.
Have a look at the air filter:
Is it OEM one?
To me it looks like it's cleanable, like K&N, am I right?
It looks caked BTW, which is probably why my MPG is so bad(?) = 30
Any comments?
Also I do get a clunk noise from the front end somewhere, but only when I hit a pot hole etc.
I did checked the f.e. when changing the fork oil, there's no freeplay or wear.
I suspect brake pads clunking in the caliper as the caliper itself is solid.
Anyone with similar symptoms?
I also need one of these emblems:
Does anoyone have a spare I could buy?
Checked eBay already, you can buy them in pairs, just don't need two at the moment unless I won't find one.
Without emblems, the tank looks so plain.
The air-cleaner is the SE upgrade. Washable with soap. I use dishwasher soap. You can lightly oil it if you care too. I have the same piece, even looks exactly the same as yours. I don't oil mine.
The 'clunk': likely the forward gas tank bolt is the cause of the noise. A well known issue. The 'sleeves' of the bolt are enlarged.
The 'clunk': likely the forward gas tank bolt is the cause of the noise. A well known issue. The 'sleeves' of the bolt are enlarged.