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So I've just finished my first rounds of mods (K&N forward facing hiflow intake & V&H staggered black short shots... Typical, I'm aware) and now I'm looking into a relatively inexpensive way to customize my rear fender (if possible). My questions to you guys are as follows:
1. Does anyone know if any company out there sells a tail light relocation kit. I plan on completely removing the limp dick tail light and relocating the existing turn signals to the the swing arm. I would like the fender to be "clean" with nothing on it at all
2. What is the largest size tire that I can stuff onto the stock rim (I believe stock is 160 or 170)
3. With the larger tire will it be necessary to chop my springs about an inch to lower the rear end? I will almost certainly be chopping up my stock springs vs. going with progressives or something of the like.
I'd like any advice that the guys on here might have being that there are so many knowledge people on the forums.
Oh 1 more question: let me start by saying I don't EVER ride in the rain.
Is it ok to simply remove the front fender, or is there anything else I should do to maybe stiffen up the front end?
Thanks in advance.
To answer you 1st question. I found a metal emblem to cover the hole on the fender for a couple months before I filled and painted my fender. A quick fix after my OG fender cracked.
I have a 180 on the stock rim and a lowered Bob (10.5 Burly). I have also removed the tail light and use ness stop/turn signals in place of stock. I like the look, the only downer is the tail light leaves some serious lines once it is pulled. At some point, I will have to repaint the fender.
I changed out my read fender with the HD Chopped fender and installed the 10.5" Burly Slammers. I also removed my turn sigs and have the flush bracket the secures the fender to the strut from the inside. I don't see why you couldn't run the 180 in there, there is tons of room.
First, no one makes a "kit" to get rid of the tail light. A body shop can weld it up and paint it for around $200. Joe at powderpro, site sponsor and resident HDforums powder coater, can do it for you and his work is top notch.
You can run a 180 on your rim, any bigger and you'll need a different rim. Some guys have laced a 18x5.5 to their stock hub or changed the whole rear wheel. This will allow you to run a 200mm tire. You may have to re-route your turn signal wiring, but it'll fit.
Lastly, cutting your stock springs is the worst idea I've seen in 7 years on this forum. The stock shocks are crap and you want to make them worse? You can purchase lowering blocks for your bike for $50 on ebay and even cheaper through the classified section here. I ran them for 2 years with no issues; I just had to set the shocks to the firmer setting. If you can afford a $12k plus bike you can afford $50 to safely lower your bike.
And the front fender doesn't do much for front end stiffness. Unbolting it is fine, I noticed absolutely no difference other than my bike looked way better.
Thanks for all the input guys. So I've reconsidered chopping the stock springs to drop the rear. Instead I will most likely go with the Burly slamming kit for about $299. I think in the end I will be much happier. I will stuff a 180 mm tire on the stock rim and have a body shop patch up the holes from the ugly tail light and re-shoot the rear fender. Now my only dilemma is what to do with the turn signals/ brake lights. If I leave them in the stock position it will look like the stock 2013 fender, which I do not want. I really like the look of the micro dots but wiring them and rigging up a bracket might be a little tricky. I was also thinking of scrapping the lights altogether and possible getting on of those slim LED flexible light strips. I think I saw one in a Kuryakyn catalog that might work.
You can go LED, or buy one of the strut mount signals. They look pretty clean. Alloy Art makes some that a lot of guys run. I went with Kuryakyn strut mount mini bullets for 05 and older dynas. They fit on the newer street bobs since they don't have strut covers. They're $50 vs $100 for the alloy art models, and I powder coated them gloss black for $25.
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