question on installing V&H Big Shots
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Tourer
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 313
Likes: 1
question on installing V&H Big Shots
I am in the process of putting on my V&H Big Shots. I got a couple of questions.
Reading the service manual I do not see anything stating to use Loctite on the nuts on the cylinder heads. Are we supposed to do this? I know I need to look at the V&H instructions sheet to see what they say. If I need Loctite which one should I use? I think they have different color ones blue and red.
Do you guys remove the shields or loosen the shields in order to screw the nuts on the cylinder head screws? When I removed the stock exhaust I had to loosen the shields to be able to fit a socket because the space was extremely tight. Wondering if you guys just remove the shields and install the exhaust and then put the shields on after installing the exhaust pipes?
Reading the service manual I do not see anything stating to use Loctite on the nuts on the cylinder heads. Are we supposed to do this? I know I need to look at the V&H instructions sheet to see what they say. If I need Loctite which one should I use? I think they have different color ones blue and red.
Do you guys remove the shields or loosen the shields in order to screw the nuts on the cylinder head screws? When I removed the stock exhaust I had to loosen the shields to be able to fit a socket because the space was extremely tight. Wondering if you guys just remove the shields and install the exhaust and then put the shields on after installing the exhaust pipes?
Intermediate
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 39
Likes: 0
From: Vienna, WV
i think the v&h instructions tell you to use never sieze on the head studs and o2 sensors. blue locktite on everything else. i use red but thats just because i get it free from work.
when i took my factory pipes off the only thing i removed was the rear cylinder heat shield to get to the head bolts, but i could see loosing up and twisting them a little might get you enough room.
when i took my factory pipes off the only thing i removed was the rear cylinder heat shield to get to the head bolts, but i could see loosing up and twisting them a little might get you enough room.
Intermediate
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 46
Likes: 0
From: Iowa
All I have ever used on studs was copper anti seize. Torqued properly, and re torqued after 30 or so miles and you shouldn't have a problem. Don't forget genuine HD gaskets. I was able to access the nuts with a crows foot and swivel. Just have to get a little creative. What bike are these pipes going on?
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Tourer
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 313
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Highhorse - bike is a '12 Street Bob black Denim. Pipes are chrome Big Shots Staggered. I do not recall but since you mentioned the gaskets...presume they do not come with the V&H outfit? If so I will pick up some genuine HD gaskets at the HD dealer. When I removed the stock exhaust I did not see any gasket. Maybe its on the studs on the heads?
I have not removed the sensors from the stock pipes but in another thread I mentioned that the plug end of the sensor cable got stripped out so I had to buy a new sensor and cable from dealer for $57. Dumbazz mistake on my part as I did not entirely thread the wire out from under my seat.
I am going to read the V&H instructions and see what it says as I briefly read over this instruction before removing the stock exhaust.
Ok...so you are saying to never to use sieze/loctite on the head studs and o2 sensors. but use blue loctite on everything else. Actually the cylinder threads/nuts are the only things I had to loosen so I am not sure what you mean by "Loctite on everything else"?
Thanks for your help to a first timer.
I have not removed the sensors from the stock pipes but in another thread I mentioned that the plug end of the sensor cable got stripped out so I had to buy a new sensor and cable from dealer for $57. Dumbazz mistake on my part as I did not entirely thread the wire out from under my seat.
I am going to read the V&H instructions and see what it says as I briefly read over this instruction before removing the stock exhaust.
Ok...so you are saying to never to use sieze/loctite on the head studs and o2 sensors. but use blue loctite on everything else. Actually the cylinder threads/nuts are the only things I had to loosen so I am not sure what you mean by "Loctite on everything else"?
Thanks for your help to a first timer.
Road Warrior
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 1,443
Likes: 9
From: North Carolina
use '' Anti Sieze'' on the flange nuts and O2 sensor threads, never locktite.
the new exhaust should have come with gaskets. if not get some
use blue locktite on exhaust to frame mount bolts, although really not needed I have never used it and no issue
the new exhaust should have come with gaskets. if not get some
use blue locktite on exhaust to frame mount bolts, although really not needed I have never used it and no issue
Road Warrior
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,620
Likes: 117
From: ARIZONA
Red locktite is STRONG. Dont use it on small bolts or studs.... Or you be reciting all your curse words as you try to extract the broken bolt/stud... Ask me how I know! =)
Dont they make a light version, like a green one?
Dont they make a light version, like a green one?
Road Master
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 1,243
Likes: 14
From: Right where I belong!
I use blue locktite on my flange studs, never had a problem, some may not agree but it works for me. For the rear lower flange stud, I have to take off the battery cover to get better access, otherwise loosing up the heatshields is the next option. I changed my exhaust with less than 20 miles on the bike, so I didnt replace the crush gaskets. But if you have a decent amount of miles on your bike you may want to replace them. For the O2 sensors, definitely use some antisieze.
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Road Master
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 750
Likes: 3
From: 3rd Rock
On my installation of V&H "Big Shots" I used electically conductive anti-sieze on the O2 sensors and torqued to spec.
On the flange studs, torque to spec., and after a couple of cool down cycles, torque
again. continue to do this until no movement is detected. Then I put another set of nuts on top of the others to lock them in place.
Works for me....
Best wishes....Tim(HT)
On the flange studs, torque to spec., and after a couple of cool down cycles, torque
again. continue to do this until no movement is detected. Then I put another set of nuts on top of the others to lock them in place.
Works for me....
Best wishes....Tim(HT)
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Road Warrior
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,724
Likes: 205
From: ORYGON
ANY COLOR OF LOC-TITE on the flange studs will do nothing do to the heat.....use anti-size on all hardware that is exposed to high heat.....re- tighten and check the flange bolts after some miles ... done,... blue loc- tite for all other hardware....... how do you release red loc-tite ? ,.....heat...
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Tourer
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 313
Likes: 1
I just stopped at PepBoys and got anti-seize tube. I presume any anti-seize will work and does not have to be a darn HD brand haha.
After I saw the reply last night I realize the Loctite I mentioned really should be the anti-seize on the flange stud/nuts.
I have the blue Loctite so will use that for the bolts that hook to the frame.
I think I am all set. now if only I did not to take my boy to the football practice I'd get busy. Guess tomorrow will be the day unless I have to run to HD and get the gasket.
I know I am going to have questions about the PV and the set up...so that is another post. Will look at the exhaust and get that over with. Warm summer days are here!
After I saw the reply last night I realize the Loctite I mentioned really should be the anti-seize on the flange stud/nuts.
I have the blue Loctite so will use that for the bolts that hook to the frame.
I think I am all set. now if only I did not to take my boy to the football practice I'd get busy. Guess tomorrow will be the day unless I have to run to HD and get the gasket.
I know I am going to have questions about the PV and the set up...so that is another post. Will look at the exhaust and get that over with. Warm summer days are here!