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Dyna Glide ModelsSuper Glide, Super Glide Sport, Super Glide Custom, Dyna Glide Convertible, Super Glide T-Sport, Dyna Glide Police, Dyna Switchback, Low Rider, Street Bob, Fat Bob and Wide Glide.
The USA is obsessed with data, which is all very well but sometimes, what looks unworkable in theory is actually just fine in real life....which is why you take your bike to a mechanic and not an engineer....true, an engineer will do an epic job but it will cost you your life savings and it may be a long while before you get your motor back ... Well put "Spanners39"
Thanks spanner. Good info there. Pretty much what I thought you were saying, I just didn't know the terminology. Thanks for the clarification and insight. Since you are very knowledgeable on the subject, what is the benefit of going gear vs chain? Is it just longer lasting, or will it provide more power?
ok, so i'm pretty mechanical as far as tearing something apart to see how it works, then getting it all back together, or seeing something done and being able to do it myself....but unfortunately i don't have all the terminology figured out. when you refer to crank runout what exactly is it referring to? also, when you refer to checking the gear lash making sure the tight spot isn't too tight...is that just meaning check the tension of the gears where they mesh together making sure that it isn't too tight a fit resulting in drag or friction?
pardon my ignorance...just trying to learn a little something here.
also, all the above being said, would i notice a huge difference in performance by going with a particular s&s gear drive kit vs just bolting in some TW222's?
YOU tube my friend theres a video on installing SS cams for a 96ci motor goes for nearly one hour
Thanks spanner. Good info there. Pretty much what I thought you were saying, I just didn't know the terminology. Thanks for the clarification and insight. Since you are very knowledgeable on the subject, what is the benefit of going gear vs chain? Is it just longer lasting, or will it provide more power?
Allegedly 4-6 extra HP and it lasts for ever, no more pad inspections, post 2007 bikes have the hydraulic tensioners but they would still need a inspection every 80K or so.
It also eliminates some moving parts, which fits my maxim of "Add lightness and simplicate"
I am one of the Americans that do a over kill in many ways.
I just plain like gear cams. If I am going to gear cams I am usually doing a complete new build from the ground up. When doing a ground up build I am expecting at least 120/120 or close to it.
On the other hand if I am just wanting a little extra power from a daily rider I use chain cams. It is rather a mild build.
A complete build can set you back with some serious $$$ in just parts and services.
A mild build isn't that bad.
We ended up with 108/112 on our wide glide with a mild build. If my memory serves me right it was around $3,000. I used chain drive and mild head work. Wanted good torque.
It is all in the how much you want to spend. This last build has taken me 5 months so far due to costs.
On my touring bikes I usually just do cams and a good tune.
Last edited by dirtdobber; Jun 10, 2013 at 01:21 PM.
More than anything I want to feel the difference in the low to mid end. The end numbers are cool if u want bragging rights, but those numbers don't mean a thing if ur still getting smoked by ur buddy. Basically I want to do it right the first time, but the whole welding the shaft bit made me feel a bit out of my league. I want solid performance for the money being spent...if that makes sense. Also, if it's only a minor difference in performance vs chain, then why would I make it more complicated than it has to be? At 80000 miles at my pace, then that gives me many years of what should be trouble free service. I guess that my thought is if there could be some variation with the fitment of the gears, then it makes me feel like it could be running just slightly out of alignment in there, and I wouldn't know until it really screwed something up. End of the day I want a bike that will make you hold on tight, and still be reliable on a daily basis. And not cost a small fortune too. Lol.
A good 95inch kit will make you smile day after day.
No reason to split the case, just cams maybe 575 lift, good head work, 95 inch with 10:1 or 10.5:1 with compression releases. Cost could vary. But it won't be a bank breaker either.
A good 95 will compete with a stock CVO 110 if done right.
Nothing wrong with your transmission. But if you want the gearing lowered think about a DD6 by baker. That will give you a more consistent ratio between gears and still give you great touring speeds.
This is just a idea nothing more.
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