So I began shopping around the local indy's for labor prices to install the FM TW-222 cam kit. One of the shops recommended I go with the S&S 551 gear drive cams instead.

Does anyone have any experience with these cams?
Is there a lot more expense to modify from chain drive to gear drive?

It seems like I keep opening pandoras box - every time I want to make a slight mod for more power, I go through this routine that takes a few hundred dollar mod to a couple of thousand and then I end up not doing it at all because of cost.

Is there anything wrong with sticking with chain drive cams?

If I'm already at a stage 1, will cams and an auto tuner for the Power Vision make much of a difference?

How difficult is it to install cams? I do all my own maintenance, but tearing into the engine internals intimidates me.

I have about $1200 to put into my bike - how should I go about it?
I was planning on
$550 FM TW-222 cam kit
$350 Auto Tuner
found a local shop that quoted $330 for the install labor - I could fudge my budget $100, but no more than that.

I'm not in a huge rush for everything, but I would like to get it done while there is still riding weather to enjoy it.

 

Seems like most of the Indy's say put the S&S gear drive in. Problem is HD tolerance for the bottom end runout is something like .011 and you aren't supposed to use gear drive cams if runout is greater then .003.

Gear drive will cost you about $400 more than chain cams. That would be worth it if you had the old tensioners, but anything 2007 and later have the hydraulic and I don't think it's worth the extra $$.

I don't think I would spend the money on an auto tuner either. Just use the PV to data log and build your own map from it.

 

I don't understand why you would have to change to gear drive? S&S offers the 551 in chain drive as well. My indy is recommending the 551 cams too.

 

He was talking about issues with chain stretch and pad wear. He said that it would eventually fail whereas the gear drive would be a one time thing, then forget about having to get in there again for anything else.

How many cam chain failures are there? Its' not like I'm going to race it, but I do ride a lot of miles.

 

No need for gear drive, you already have the good tensioners and oil pump, just change the cams and ride.

 

Thanks - that's what I wanted to hear. It seems like shops know just what to say to induce enough doubt and stress to get you to pry open the wallet even when you know you shouldn't

 

Ok, yea, maybe eventually all that is going to happen. It's eventually going to happen whether you change cams out or not if you don't do regular maintenance. I think gear drive are probably better, but for the typical ol boy out cruising around, I don't think they are that much better. Sounds to me like your wrench is trying to get in your pocket a little.

 

With the new Hyd tensioner and chains you should be good to close to 100,000 miles anyway and then you'll probably be going into the engine to freshen it up any way. No need to go Gear Drive on the newer motors. I converted my 05 Fatboy to the SE Hyd set up for that reason, less maintenance and longevity.

If you have basic mechanical ability and basic toold you can easily do the cam change yourself. Plenty of good videos on it, go to Fuel Moto and they have a step by step tech info to do the job. Also auto tune is nice but if you already have the power vision, either start with a base MAP from Jamie and then do some data runs and tweak it in, if your not comfortable doing it call jamie and he will walk you through collecting the data and then e mail to him and he will custom you MAP

 

Good info - I would like to do this myself if it isn't too bad. Are special tools needed, and do you guys know if they can be rented?

 

At around 50000 miles i installed Andrews 26h cams, i had a Stage 1, was ok then added a PCIII little better, then added the cams and way more low end grunt....Many differnt cams to be had...all depends what you like and what are you looking for, low end high or end power??? SOOO many damn choices it's mind boggling... As far as doing it yourself... With a manual and several step by step picture or video instruction available and some tools you can do it...It's a bit more intimidating than it actually is....Attached are the tools i rented from Auto Zone to remove and install the cam bearings. I think i spent 350.00 including everything.
I used the write up by Atrain and it was awesome. You would need
in/lbs torque wrench
ft/lbs torque wrench
sockets/ratchets
feeler gauge
straight edge
cam gear locking tool (i used a open end wrench covered the edges with tape to protect the gears)
Jack helps
Adjustable pushrods ( i went that route and i am glad cuz my motor is so much more quiet...i used SE)
You can buy the install kit from Fuel Moto for about $50.00, i i had to do it again i wouldn't buy that because it includes all the upper gaskets i didn't use)
So you can get a new set of bearings, cam chest gaskets, misc o-rings for the oil pump....
Assembly lube
Loctie red and blue (you should have that already if you have a HD)
Ziplock bags, sharpie, mark everything and take pictures as you open an area you are not familiar with ...

You might or might not have to buy a shim but you wont know until you get the new cam installed...

Chain drive is fine... my cam tension shoes at 50k were good like 90% good so i am pretty confident they are still good at 72000 miles...i might go back in at 100-125k