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Old Aug 22, 2012 | 02:54 PM
  #11  
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iclick
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From: Baton Rouge, LA
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I agree with everyone else that there's utterly no call to go with gear drive on a modern TC engine, and for reasons already given it might even be ill-advised. When I changed cams at 25k the tensioner pads looked so good I didn't replace them--the inner looking practically new and the outer with maybe 10% wear. I'm at 55k now and have no plans on checking them anytime soon unless I'm in the cam chest for some other reason.

You didn't say if you had a 96" or 103", but the 222 cams look to be a very good upgrade in a 103" without having to do anything else. I have yet to see a chart for a 96" and will reserve my opinion until I do, but I'm wary of the 34° intake close on an engine with 9.2:1 static compression, as CCP and dynamic compression will decrease compared to stock. Also be advised that any Wood cam will require adjustable pushrods, as the base-circle isn't the same as stock. I assume that was part of the $550 you quoted for the cams.

Out of curiosity, what "auto-tuner" are you getting for $350?
 

Last edited by iclick; Aug 22, 2012 at 05:12 PM.
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Old Aug 22, 2012 | 03:09 PM
  #12  
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bklynbob
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From: bklyn,ny
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No gear drive needed..........If you're not doing headwork / upping compression,stay with a good low lift cam (max..510 lift). Easy to tune,good gas mileage,less wear and tear on the valve train, good power. Since newer bikes geared so high, you want the power down low. Can't go wrong w/ the SE 204,even better is a Crane 1-6000 .Good luck with your ride...............
 

Last edited by bklynbob; Aug 23, 2012 at 03:50 AM.
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Old Aug 22, 2012 | 06:17 PM
  #13  
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FiremanJeff
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I DID 51G S&S gear drive cams 3yrs ago om 06 sg 12k miles ago. the bike had gone through two sets of tensioners and had SE203 chain driven cams in it. I am glad I did it would do it again
 
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