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I installed Z-Plus brake pads on my SB's fork a couple weeks ago, after soiling the OEM pads with a blown fork seal. I thought the stock brakes were just adequate for the job, and noisy, and was hoping for some improvement. But the new pads were just the same... even squealed with light brake pressure, just like the originals.
So I decided to try Disc Brake Quiet on the bike. You've all seen the small Mylar packets of the stuff, next to the register at Autozone. I have used it many times on my Jeeps, and such, but never on a bike.
I dismounted the caliper, rinsed the parts with brake cleaner, and using a screwdriver to create a gap between the pad and piston, I squeezed a small amount between the surfaces. After re-torquing the caliper, I wrapped a bungee around the brake lever and grip, to provide constant pressure to the brake as it dried. Never touched the brake line, bleeder, or even removed the reservoir cap.
As expected, the brake squeal stopped. Problem solved. But what surprised me was, how much better the front brake now FEELS. Firmer, solid, and using less pull to get the job done. I'm not going to say that the bike stops any better, but it inspires more confidence. This stuff was a few bucks well spent!
quiet is good, but tying down the brake overnight may have cause some residual air to float out of the lines and into the reservoir, which would have that very effect on your brakes.
I've always been told that brake squeal from the contacting surfaces was due to uneven wear. And the only repair was turn-down or replacement. If this is so, any surface applied treatment would surley be temporary.
I agree with the brake lever comment above. The brake quiet wouldn't affect your lever travel. Tying a brake lever overnight is a common trick to forcing air out of the system. Also, you said you cleaned everything real well. If the pistons were out of their bores and you cleaned them up. .clean pistons that retract properly give better level feel than dirty pistons that don't retract like they should.
so I have duals which are a constant pain in the rear with noise/dragging. Nothing seems to fix the problem. Have been told to just live with it.. so you guys are saying there is a fix?
Have been told to replace the lines as they break down inside causing lack of release/fluid.
Know absolutely nothing about brakes...as simple as it sounds... post here will you's? I'm following this thread.. thanks eh
Disc Brake quiet as I used a "cleaner" on the old Shovel that worked... how does this work? Is it a cleaner or a coating compound?
I've always been told that brake squeal from the contacting surfaces was due to uneven wear. And the only repair was turn-down or replacement. If this is so, any surface applied treatment would surley be temporary.
Absolutely not ... Brake noise is ( for want of a better term ) vibration of one or more of the components in/on the caliper assy ... Lateral run out and variation in parallelism will exacerbate the situation ... By using the proper lubricants on mounting / mating / pad backings / caliper mountings / and slide pins you can greatly reduce the noise while increasing the stopping effectiveness because all components are operating in harmony ... and yes you can achieve a better lever/pedal feel ... Think about the fact that if the caliper is not floating/sliding properly it could be energizing on only one side ( inboard or outboard ) therefore utilizing only a portion of the friction material ... This is quite common on automobiles that utilize a sliding caliper assy.
I had stock pads, I had noise (light grinding sound) when just pushing the bike and just figured it was normal. Never bothered me either.
I put on new Lyndall Gold pads, and no more noise.
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