Looking for some shock info
Thread Starter
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Road Master
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 926
Likes: 135
From: Central, NJ
Looking for some shock info
My next upgrade is going to be replacing my stock shocks on my 2010 FXDC. I have been reading the various threads here in the Dyna section and quite frankly I'm still pretty confused. I have seen many recommendations to contact motorcyclemetal for help but don't want to waste his time until I have better knowledge or at least have narrowed down what I want a bit.
I am really just looking for better handling and less bottoming out. I ride solo 90% of the time but would like to be able to handle 2-up when needed. Even adjusting the preload on my stock shocks I bottom out more often than I think I should whether solo or 2-up.
So I guess my question is how do you narrow down the choices whether Progressive, JRI, Ohlin, etc? What about the various models within manufacturer? What are the benefits of going with a shorter shock?
TIA, I thought I would be able to narrow my search down from reading the forums but I am now more confused.
I am really just looking for better handling and less bottoming out. I ride solo 90% of the time but would like to be able to handle 2-up when needed. Even adjusting the preload on my stock shocks I bottom out more often than I think I should whether solo or 2-up.
So I guess my question is how do you narrow down the choices whether Progressive, JRI, Ohlin, etc? What about the various models within manufacturer? What are the benefits of going with a shorter shock?
TIA, I thought I would be able to narrow my search down from reading the forums but I am now more confused.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 2,291
Likes: 11
From: The Whale's Vagina
For the time being, I'm putting take off Bagger shocks on my Fat Bob, 13" Air Ride. I hear good things, and for the super low price ($100 all in) I will give it a go, if I don't like it I will shop for something else later
My advice is to pick up the phone and call one of the companies you're interested in. The good ones will sell you shocks set up for your weight and riding style.
I have Hagons, and their customer support is outstanding. I'm on my second set of shocks from them (I upgraded).
I have Hagons, and their customer support is outstanding. I'm on my second set of shocks from them (I upgraded).
Road Warrior
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 1,416
Likes: 1
From: North Jersey
The deciding factor is usually Money. The better the shock the more it costs. Want good advice go to Howard at Motorcycle Metal but plan on spending some bucks. A lot depends on how you ride.
Thread Starter
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Road Master
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 926
Likes: 135
From: Central, NJ
Thanks all. I'd like to keep the cost down but I'm willing to spend the money if it's justified with a much better ride and handling. I'm going to head back to Motorcycle Metal and do some more reading.
Cruiser
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 137
Likes: 1
From: Mass
I have the same issue with my 2010 FXDC, but i ride more two up. have bottomed out more then i can count. but don't want to waste money on something that will not improve the ride.
Please keep us updated on what you try and how they perform
Please keep us updated on what you try and how they perform
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Road Captain
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 579
Likes: 26
From: Virginia
Ohlins: Top notch quality, made in Sweden, rebuildable
JRi: Top notch quality, made in North Carolina, rebuildable
What about the various models within manufacturer?
What are the benefits of going with a shorter shock?
Another neat fact I learned from talking with Howard at Motorcylemetal is that the fully adjustable shock with the "sweep valve" has 1" less stroke. He said you can't cram all that stuff in the shock body without loosing something. So I went without it because the roads around here are crap.
Don't put too much stock into a shock "custom made for your weight and riding style". That's a bunch of marketing crap. Yes the spring rate is chosen for your ride. But the valving is pretty much what you get if it's non-adjustable, and if it's adjustable, you turn the clickers and make the adjustments.
Also you have to set the sag (how much the bike squishes down when you sit on the bike) which you can adjust with the threaded collars that squish the spring down. A common misconseption is that if you increase the preload on the spring, you make it stiffer. Not so. The preload just changes at what point the shock starts to compress. One the suspension is in motion, the spring rate is what it is, it's not adjustable without changing springs.
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Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 89
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From: Meridianville, AL
Just adding a bit to Zimm's post.
The springs hold the bike up. The fork and shock damping keep the tires in contact with the ground.
At a minimum you should get shocks that have an adjustable rebound circuit.
Buying them from MotorcycleMetal is a smart thing to do. Call Howard and ask him questions. He isn't all that bad. Though from reading some of his posts it is obvious he won't suffer fools.
The springs hold the bike up. The fork and shock damping keep the tires in contact with the ground.
At a minimum you should get shocks that have an adjustable rebound circuit.
Buying them from MotorcycleMetal is a smart thing to do. Call Howard and ask him questions. He isn't all that bad. Though from reading some of his posts it is obvious he won't suffer fools.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 2,291
Likes: 11
From: The Whale's Vagina
I like them...lots of adjustability. Now that I have them dialed in, I haven't touched them in a few thousand miles. If I was going to do it over again, I'd probably go with the Nitros. I just didn't like the color options at the time (silly reason I guess).