2011 wideglide cam install
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Joined: Jun 2013
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From: duanesburg,new york
2011 wideglide cam install
well santa dropped off a set of woods 222 cams and install kit. I already got a pc v so i was thinking of getting the autotune for it along with an oil cooler. is there anything i should upgrade while the cam chest is open?
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Joined: Apr 2006
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From: Clarksburg, PA
I did it to mine and I bought one for my brother when I do his cams, but I suggest the Hayden primary chain tensioner. The racheting stock one doesn't back off if it overtightens. The Hayden is spring loaded so it has some give to it.
I had my tranny mainshaft bearing go bad and I'm sure that an overtightened chain had something to do with it...although I'm not saying it was 100% the reason.
Here's mine:
More info on it, but shop around for a better price:
http://www.haydensm6.com/m6_bt07.htm
I had my tranny mainshaft bearing go bad and I'm sure that an overtightened chain had something to do with it...although I'm not saying it was 100% the reason.
Here's mine:
More info on it, but shop around for a better price:
http://www.haydensm6.com/m6_bt07.htm
Tourer
Joined: Dec 2006
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I installed cams in my 2010 Wide Glide. I definitely recommend the Hayden Primary Chain adjuster -- I did it due to the stock hydraulic tensioner over tightening the chain and trashing the inner primary bearing.
Also, for much better shifting, change your tranny fluid to Redline Heavy Duty Shockproof -- 1qt fills it.
And of course change your inner can bearings to the heavy duty torrington items.
You'll need some special tools -- I got mine from Georges Garage.
You'll also want SE tapered adjustable pushrods and of course the Factory Service Manual.
And you'll certainly need the appropriate starting map for whatever ECM tuner you are using.
Sounds like a pretty mild can so that should do it.
I used a Jag 10 row oil cooler -- nice unit.
Also, for much better shifting, change your tranny fluid to Redline Heavy Duty Shockproof -- 1qt fills it.
And of course change your inner can bearings to the heavy duty torrington items.
You'll need some special tools -- I got mine from Georges Garage.
You'll also want SE tapered adjustable pushrods and of course the Factory Service Manual.
And you'll certainly need the appropriate starting map for whatever ECM tuner you are using.
Sounds like a pretty mild can so that should do it.
I used a Jag 10 row oil cooler -- nice unit.
Road Captain
Joined: Aug 2012
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From: Iowa
How many miles? You going thru the top or cutting the pushrods? May want to change your lifters. Definitely change the inner cam bearings as suggested earlier. Fleabay has them for $15.00 or so. Torrington B168's. Double check that. If you have the money upgrade to the SE plate and upgrade the oil pump. I also have the Hayden Tensioner. Look at the SE Clutch plate too. Its only $32.00 or so. I run the PC-V with autotune. I like it as I dont really want to dyno my bike. If my seat dyno makes me smile its all I need. I have a parts/gasket list if you go thru the top.
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From: duanesburg,new york
well my bikes only got 2k miles on it so I think the lifters will be good. the cams and install kit came from fuel moto so I have their adjustable pushrods. what about the axtell oil bypass valve from zippers performance?
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If you've got a 2011 then your existing oil pump should be fine. No need for pump upgrade or bypass valve. The pumps were upgraded when they went to hydraulic can chain tensioners back in 2007.
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Tourer
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That might be true if you've got money to burn. But he's only got 2,000 miles on the stock lifters and the Woods 222 has pretty mild ramps -- he should be fine as is. He should probably just send Fuelmoto an e-mail and ask their opinion -- it's their kit and they've got a lot more experience with it. If he were installing a more aggressive cam then there are additional things I would upgrade (including the lifters).
With that said, I did have a lifter fail on a Woods 6HG cam that I ran -- it wiped out the cam and the lifter roller, but no other damage. Replaced the cam and lifters and I was back in business (with a lighter wallet). In that instance I had replaced the lifters with SE lifters prior to the original Cam install, and the lifter failed probably 20,000 miles later -- the those Woods cams were so noisy to begin with that I probably ran several hundred miles with the failed lifter before I even noticed it.
With that said, I did have a lifter fail on a Woods 6HG cam that I ran -- it wiped out the cam and the lifter roller, but no other damage. Replaced the cam and lifters and I was back in business (with a lighter wallet). In that instance I had replaced the lifters with SE lifters prior to the original Cam install, and the lifter failed probably 20,000 miles later -- the those Woods cams were so noisy to begin with that I probably ran several hundred miles with the failed lifter before I even noticed it.
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From: SE Illinois
Replace the inner cam bearings with Torrington & you're good to go.
You have the adjustable pushrods, so no need to get into the top end unnecessarily. Your stock lifters will be fine with the 222 cams. This is what I'm running....Wood 222 cams/Torrington bearings, stock lifters & top end.
Just doing cams on a 2011...the stock pump & plate are plenty robust enough, as are the tensioners, and stock clutch plate. Don't spend money changing items that are not necessary...just my $.02.
You have the adjustable pushrods, so no need to get into the top end unnecessarily. Your stock lifters will be fine with the 222 cams. This is what I'm running....Wood 222 cams/Torrington bearings, stock lifters & top end.
Just doing cams on a 2011...the stock pump & plate are plenty robust enough, as are the tensioners, and stock clutch plate. Don't spend money changing items that are not necessary...just my $.02.