Steering head bearing adjustment quesitons
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Tourer
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 275
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From: MD suburb of our Nation's Capital
Steering head bearing adjustment quesitons
I've been advised to check the steering head bearings in my 2013 FXDB after some front fork mods.
See - https://www.hdforums.com/forum/12674628-post973.html
I researched it and have a few questions.
Some have commented that finding the star nut was a real bitch. Happily, the one on this model is pretty accessible and it looks like getting a tool in to move it won't be too tough.
Also, the stem nut is placed so that torquing it back down shouldn't be a problem.
According to the SM, the stem cap is threaded and needs a "hubcap remover" to get it off. Any suggestions on that?
The "fall-away" procedure seems a bit subjective to me. I've seen videos online on how it's done, and can do it but am wondering if there's a better way.
Some posters have suggested just loosening the star nut then hand tightening it down, or getting it tighter and backing it off a bit.
I've also seen some videos where the bike is on a lift and the front fork is pushed one direction and allowed to swing the other, then done the opposite direction. It's supposed to swing just past center once then stop back at center. Is that a different kind of suspension from my 2013 SB?
The SM also says to loosen the nacelle fasteners, but on my bike, this does not seem to be an issue, so I'm wondering about that.
My back's not up against the wall to get this done; it's just something I'm looking at doing with a little over 2k miles on now and some fiddling with the front suspension. So, I'm starting research and would like any information I can get.
See - https://www.hdforums.com/forum/12674628-post973.html
I researched it and have a few questions.
Some have commented that finding the star nut was a real bitch. Happily, the one on this model is pretty accessible and it looks like getting a tool in to move it won't be too tough.
Also, the stem nut is placed so that torquing it back down shouldn't be a problem.
According to the SM, the stem cap is threaded and needs a "hubcap remover" to get it off. Any suggestions on that?
The "fall-away" procedure seems a bit subjective to me. I've seen videos online on how it's done, and can do it but am wondering if there's a better way.
Some posters have suggested just loosening the star nut then hand tightening it down, or getting it tighter and backing it off a bit.
I've also seen some videos where the bike is on a lift and the front fork is pushed one direction and allowed to swing the other, then done the opposite direction. It's supposed to swing just past center once then stop back at center. Is that a different kind of suspension from my 2013 SB?
The SM also says to loosen the nacelle fasteners, but on my bike, this does not seem to be an issue, so I'm wondering about that.
My back's not up against the wall to get this done; it's just something I'm looking at doing with a little over 2k miles on now and some fiddling with the front suspension. So, I'm starting research and would like any information I can get.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 5,384
Likes: 12
From: Out on Deranged
You absoloutely need the front wheel off the ground, that's first.
You should remove the clutch cable which will impede free movement.
The stem cap should unscrew by hand.
You must loosen the lower fork pinch bolts allowing up and down movement to the yokes.
Make a mark on a piece of masking tape on the center of the front fender.
Gently tap the wheel left until the fork falls free. anywhere between 2 and 4" is the correct fall away. Repeat for teh right side. anything over 4" is too loose and you will have to tighten it by tapping the stem nut clockwise. Just 1/32th" is usually enough. re-torque the stem lock nut and re-test repeat until all is good finally tightening the pinch bolts.
There should be no loosen and tighten messing around involved, and wherever you read "bitch slap the fork so it butts against the steering stop and bounces back to center has to be the worse thing I have ever hear of and nothing could be further from the truth.
That said with the few miles you have on the bike you should not even have to think about this adjustment for another16K miles.
You should remove the clutch cable which will impede free movement.
The stem cap should unscrew by hand.
You must loosen the lower fork pinch bolts allowing up and down movement to the yokes.
Make a mark on a piece of masking tape on the center of the front fender.
Gently tap the wheel left until the fork falls free. anywhere between 2 and 4" is the correct fall away. Repeat for teh right side. anything over 4" is too loose and you will have to tighten it by tapping the stem nut clockwise. Just 1/32th" is usually enough. re-torque the stem lock nut and re-test repeat until all is good finally tightening the pinch bolts.
There should be no loosen and tighten messing around involved, and wherever you read "bitch slap the fork so it butts against the steering stop and bounces back to center has to be the worse thing I have ever hear of and nothing could be further from the truth.
That said with the few miles you have on the bike you should not even have to think about this adjustment for another16K miles.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 5,477
Likes: 5
From: New Braunfels, Texas
with the few miles you have on the bike you should not even have to think about this adjustment for another16K miles.
A few things to add...you want to make sure your bike is level on the jack from side to side. I take off the rubber kickstand rest when I do mine. You should also take off any windshield/fairing as well.
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