Well... Guess its time for engine work
I agree go with a stock motor.
Also, what about insurance? Will they cover any of this?
I would check with local dealers or local engine builders to see if they have a 96 sitting around, put a cam in it and get back on the rode.
I'm really sorry that happened to you...I think I would have thrown up seeing all that damage.
http://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/mpo/4434915145.html
While in theory you may feel that there is no need to use lock-wire, it can not hurt to go this extra step either...there is a reason lock-wire is pretty much standard in aviation components, and that reason is that a catastrophic engine failure like this is much more serious...there ain't no putting it in neutral and coasting to the side of the road and calling a wrecker...
There are MANY fasteners inside every HD engine that are not lock wired or lock tabbed, they rely on proper torque and thread locker and they do not fail.
IT IS IMPROPER to tighten the bolts without removing them and reapplying thread locker. If you tighten the bolts that are already installed with thread locker previously, you are breaking the "locked thread" (the cured thread locker) on the threads and are not much better off than if you did not use thread locker to begin with.
To be clear, there 10's of thousands of air cleaners of this design, with untold millions of miles on the road today, that have had, and will have, no problems.
This is the design used by S&S, regarded by many as the most high quality producer of V-Twin engines and components. It is also the same design used by many other manufacturers of high performance intakes.
There are also many air cleaners that have the safety tubes that will prevent the sucking in of a broken bolt, an improperly installed bolt, etc. These designs are compromises, they inhibit the flow of air, and only started showing up around the time of a proliferation of Chinese made parts and fasteners.
From what we have seen in the pictures, it is apparent that it was not a failure of one of our components or fasteners, but we are working with him at finding out what did fail, and more importantly, working at helping him get back on the road.
DKCustomProducts.com
Last edited by Robbie13; May 8, 2014 at 06:38 PM.
Now, as far as my motor goes, and budget, I am seeing that I'll be spending more than I would have originally thought, which is fine as long as it's put towards worthwhile modification. That being said, there are endless thread of motor builds I'm going to be reading and rereading. What I'm hoping to do is get the perfect balance of power and reliability. Still discovering how to do that. I'd like to keep this thread focused on that topic as, I need all the expertise I can get... Thank again guys.
At the moment I'm trying to figure out what route to take with heads matched to cams, that'll fit the 107 build. Dark horse will give me a solid bottom to build on.
Ideally, I'd like to keep a similar power curve as I had with the 204's but just higher up on the graph
Last edited by Dynam1te; May 8, 2014 at 08:55 PM.
It would be one thing to be to blow a motor from abuse, but something as simple as a bolt would kill me.
Just got in from the garage. Took all 3 of mine out, wiped them down and applied a new coat of blue to each one.
Is kinda weird, I've ran the exact same backing plate on my last 3 bikes, and have never had a bolt come loose. This is the first time I've ever heard of something like that even happening.
It's a Harley thing...half the bolts need locktite, and the rest need anti seize.
http://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/mpo/4428149201.html
http://dallas.craigslist.org/ftw/mpo/4448586137.html
http://killeen.craigslist.org/mpo/4391305071.html
Last edited by sonnydaze; May 8, 2014 at 09:18 PM.
The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders
Anyone here have any feedback on woods 888 cams? Still looking for a good cam to run with my 107. I like the lines of the 108,and the idle reminds me of my 204s...









