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Well... Guess its time for engine work

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Old May 8, 2014 | 10:00 AM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by bremsstrahlung
Wow. The destruction is stunning. Sorry man. If it were me with the budget you have, I'd just put a stock take-off motor back in and never have any issues again. If you wanna go fast, just use your leftover money and buy a used sportbike, ride it around the block once or twice and realize no matter how much money you throw at your Bob, you're only going to be going "Harley fast" anyway. lol .
+1

I agree go with a stock motor.

Also, what about insurance? Will they cover any of this?
 
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Old May 8, 2014 | 02:36 PM
  #52  
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If it was me I wouldn't use any part of that motor. There may be parts that can be saved, but I would never trust it completely and if something did go wrong I would kick myself for having to do it twice.

I would check with local dealers or local engine builders to see if they have a 96 sitting around, put a cam in it and get back on the rode.

I'm really sorry that happened to you...I think I would have thrown up seeing all that damage.
 
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Old May 8, 2014 | 02:44 PM
  #53  
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Hey I found you a brand new motor on craigs list:
http://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/mpo/4434915145.html
 
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Old May 8, 2014 | 02:48 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by rooti
If you sent him a new 96 then you would have my vote for vendor of the year!
If it were our fault, no doubt we would take care of it.


Originally Posted by skinman13
As the saying goes, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure...

While in theory you may feel that there is no need to use lock-wire, it can not hurt to go this extra step either...there is a reason lock-wire is pretty much standard in aviation components, and that reason is that a catastrophic engine failure like this is much more serious...there ain't no putting it in neutral and coasting to the side of the road and calling a wrecker...
Yes, there are many parts in some Motorcycle Competitions (like at the Bonniville Salt Flats) that require certain parts to be lock-wired before you can even make a run. However, air cleaner bolts are not one of them.

There are MANY fasteners inside every HD engine that are not lock wired or lock tabbed, they rely on proper torque and thread locker and they do not fail.


Originally Posted by lhgdale
!!!! PLEASE CHECK THESE SCREWS FOR TIGHTNESS IF YOU HAVE THIS STYLE AIR CLEANER!!!!!
If you have any doubt that any part was installed properly, I agree 100%. The way to double check is to remove the fasteners, reapply thread locker, and then tighten them to proper torque settings, then go back around and re-torque each fastener again to the proper torque settings, as you should when tightening any group of fasteners, such as lug nuts, head bolts, etc.

IT IS IMPROPER to tighten the bolts without removing them and reapplying thread locker. If you tighten the bolts that are already installed with thread locker previously, you are breaking the "locked thread" (the cured thread locker) on the threads and are not much better off than if you did not use thread locker to begin with.


To be clear, there 10's of thousands of air cleaners of this design, with untold millions of miles on the road today, that have had, and will have, no problems.

This is the design used by S&S, regarded by many as the most high quality producer of V-Twin engines and components. It is also the same design used by many other manufacturers of high performance intakes.

There are also many air cleaners that have the safety tubes that will prevent the sucking in of a broken bolt, an improperly installed bolt, etc. These designs are compromises, they inhibit the flow of air, and only started showing up around the time of a proliferation of Chinese made parts and fasteners.

From what we have seen in the pictures, it is apparent that it was not a failure of one of our components or fasteners, but we are working with him at finding out what did fail, and more importantly, working at helping him get back on the road.
 
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Old May 8, 2014 | 06:35 PM
  #55  
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Man, I am sorry this happened. Especially at this time of year. Like you said, I think it was a freak accident. Made me go look at mine too. I did follow the directions (not saying you didn't) and torqued and loctited mine. I haven't had any issues at all with mine. That being said, when I clean my filter I will be sure and check and retorque. I wish you the best in whatever you decide to do. And I give a shout out to DK for working with him on this.
 

Last edited by Robbie13; May 8, 2014 at 06:38 PM.
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Old May 8, 2014 | 08:13 PM
  #56  
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Yes, just to reaffirm... What ever happened to my bike wasn't at the fault of DK. They have been incredible as far as customer service is concerned, and are offering more for me than most manufacturers would. Thank you to them.

Now, as far as my motor goes, and budget, I am seeing that I'll be spending more than I would have originally thought, which is fine as long as it's put towards worthwhile modification. That being said, there are endless thread of motor builds I'm going to be reading and rereading. What I'm hoping to do is get the perfect balance of power and reliability. Still discovering how to do that. I'd like to keep this thread focused on that topic as, I need all the expertise I can get... Thank again guys.
At the moment I'm trying to figure out what route to take with heads matched to cams, that'll fit the 107 build. Dark horse will give me a solid bottom to build on.
Ideally, I'd like to keep a similar power curve as I had with the 204's but just higher up on the graph
 

Last edited by Dynam1te; May 8, 2014 at 08:55 PM.
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Old May 8, 2014 | 08:21 PM
  #57  
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Just damn.....

It would be one thing to be to blow a motor from abuse, but something as simple as a bolt would kill me.

Just got in from the garage. Took all 3 of mine out, wiped them down and applied a new coat of blue to each one.

Is kinda weird, I've ran the exact same backing plate on my last 3 bikes, and have never had a bolt come loose. This is the first time I've ever heard of something like that even happening.

It's a Harley thing...half the bolts need locktite, and the rest need anti seize.
 
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Old May 8, 2014 | 09:04 PM
  #58  
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I would just rebuild it and still keep Harley warranty . but that would be wrong of me .I think with a few take off parts you could rebuild it for under a 1000 or 1500 with new cams
http://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/mpo/4428149201.html
http://dallas.craigslist.org/ftw/mpo/4448586137.html
http://killeen.craigslist.org/mpo/4391305071.html
 

Last edited by sonnydaze; May 8, 2014 at 09:18 PM.
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Old May 8, 2014 | 11:16 PM
  #59  
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You said you were going to call Dave Mackie, I would bet he would want to run the TC575L cams based on what you have mentioned so far. Bump the compression up a little, mild headwork, should work well for you.
 
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Old May 10, 2014 | 01:07 AM
  #60  
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I think I'm going to budget the heads a bit and go with the CNC SE heads. I'm trying to limit myself a bit...
Anyone here have any feedback on woods 888 cams? Still looking for a good cam to run with my 107. I like the lines of the 108,and the idle reminds me of my 204s...
 
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