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Dyna Glide ModelsSuper Glide, Super Glide Sport, Super Glide Custom, Dyna Glide Convertible, Super Glide T-Sport, Dyna Glide Police, Dyna Switchback, Low Rider, Street Bob, Fat Bob and Wide Glide.
Congrads on getting that LR, emperor wurm. Be sure to keep us updated on the mods you make. A Stage 1 upgrade makes a big difference.
Thanks,
That is what I want to do first, the bike really needs it. Would I be an ******* if I ran Apes and lowered my low rider instead of a fairing and t-bars? Has any one tried running apes on the low riders crazy risers?
Apes would work with the stock risers no issues. You will need extended brake lines which will need to be dual disc type. The Street Bob clutch and throttle cables would work unles you are talking about installing very tall apes. The electrical wires are super long they are stuffed in the frame backbone from the factory. You will need to wire internal which is easy on the new CANBUS bikes.
As far as lowering that's your call but trust me you will wreck the handling of that LR, it already has 12" shocks on it which is why it's called a "low rider". But your call.
Apes would work with the stock risers no issues. You will need extended brake lines which will need to be dual disc type. The Street Bob clutch and throttle cables would work unles you are talking about installing very tall apes. The electrical wires are super long they are stuffed in the frame backbone from the factory. You will need to wire internal which is easy on the new CANBUS bikes.
As far as lowering that's your call but trust me you will wreck the handling of that LR, it already has 12" shocks on it which is why it's called a "low rider". But your call.
Nice bike, post pics when you get it updated.
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Hey Man,
Thanks for the info, very helpful...so you're telling me that I can run the stock street bob clutch and throttle cables with lets say a 12-14" bar? If that's the case that is awesome, should save me a good amount.
Why would the CANBUS be eaiser to run internally rather than non-CANBUS? I ran wires internally on my sporty and its wasn't too bad from what I remember...are the wires on a CANBUS bike just thinner?
Thanks for the info, very helpful...so you're telling me that I can run the stock street bob clutch and throttle cables with lets say a 12-14" bar? If that's the case that is awesome, should save me a good amount.
Why would the CANBUS be eaiser to run internally rather than non-CANBUS? I ran wires internally on my sporty and its wasn't too bad from what I remember...are the wires on a CANBUS bike just thinner?
12" apes street Bob cables will work. 14" may push it seeing as how the FXDL risers are already a 3" rise when fully collapsed rearward.
The CANBUS wiring end connectors are super small and don't need to be removed to pull through the internal wiring holes.
I just picked mine up on saturday....I have only put 60 miles on it. The bike had 2100 when I purchased it....its bone stock. I love the bike, but as usual, the bike is way way too plugged up from the factory, some basic mods should clear that up though....Does anyone know if I can get xieds for the 103 dyna motor?
I have them on mi bike, the FL-VIED's. while is not like say a power vision, they do help cool down the combustion temp, also removing the cat converter helps also.
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That is what I want to do first, the bike really needs it. Would I be an ******* if I ran Apes and lowered my low rider instead of a fairing and t-bars? Has any one tried running apes on the low riders crazy risers?
I do not know how tall you are, however the low rider already sits low, for me at 5'7", it is great, and I replaced the stock shocks with 12.5" progressive 444's, they are great.
I do not know how tall you are, however the low rider already sits low, for me at 5'7", it is great, and I replaced the stock shocks with 12.5" progressive 444's, they are great.
I am 6'3 I had my sporty slammed with 10.5 in struts while the ride made your kidneys bleed, it looked cool as hell
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